Mr B

Sounds like it was sls springs fitted rather than non sls to match the non sls excel-g struts. hope all works out good ...

Easy fit with care doing a test fit marking positing with masking tape then remove adhesive tape to final fit. The adhesive is super strong & you can't remove them easy without some level of marks/damage to car bumper paint & the guard.

I got 2 from US seller 'quality_subaru' via eBay as half the price of UK better priced ones & had no import fee which was good .

Not really, the new poly bushes are easy to fit. hardest part is removing old one, I find an air hammer good on them but real tight ones are best burnt out, then remaining metal sleeve cut or knocked out.

One of these > http://www.strongflex.eu/en/subaru-forester-sf-97-02/361-rear-tie-bar-to-hub-front-bush.html part number 271152B

Make one I've done a couple as even the subaru ones are 5hite. I made bottom mount to small L brackets fixed off the screw that locates trim for boot cover, for top I shaped alloy strip into brackets that feed from seatbelt upper mounts. Does not touch any trim, is more secure & much much cheaper than subaru.

Seems those current KYBs are quite new the boots & bumps may be in very serviceable order, worth having a look as saves about £18. If shocks look right compare springs as should be obvious difference. Hope just springs as cheaper & job jobbed easily.

Either take back if can get money back & change for something better such as LUK (about best at price & tests best at torque handling for standard style organic clutches) Exedy is ok but overrated & overpriced ... other option is getting another release bearing from either local motorfactor - A BluePrint ADL one as normally ntn release bearing (jap) or from ICP & stipulate want ntn release bearing , cost is about £30-£38 ...

black pu40 adhesive sealer probably work well on that, i've used everbuild brand for years & always have black & white tubes on standby. I've used it to bond awkward body trim/door protection strips & window trim & worked well on all.

Should just enter 4 digits, be sure the immobilizer has cut in by trying turn key, ignition key would also need be in the ign position. Sounds like Fob gone bad on your original key then, you could try reprogramming it to the alarm with its new battery if that no go then try find one on eBay or breakers & swap fob board to your key housing & reprogram it to alarm. price from Subaru is shocking, even the fobs that hang on key ring can work (be programmed) if can't find the built in keyfob easily. Useful thread on fob programming below > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/306-remote-needed/?p=34581 Good M30 Manual > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

Just unlock with fob, wait for the 30 second immobilizer cuts in so when turn ignition key you need press alarm button again but don't press alarm button, use your pin code . You could also sit in car arm alarm wait 30 seconds then open the door so alarm start screaming then try you pin code to turn it off ;-) Out of interest is the other key fob turning alarm on or off or is it 100% dead when pressing the button ?

yours has the M30 sigma ! remote built into key & one button You have a transponder chip built in to key as well as the remote board for the alarm. Transponder works with engine ecu & is completely seperate to the M30 Sigma alarm. Transponder works by proximity of key to receiver on steering column. this could be the issue if actual alarm push button fob appears to work. Any decent locksmith specialising in cars can program transponder chips & either supply with new key or try graft new chip in your old key. If the fob is faulty try pick up a spare one same type (built into key) from a breakers or ebay then swap the board to your key & program the new fob. what you also want do is take the opportunity to program a new 4 pin digit security code such as your birthday so you never forget it, this can be done easily while have a working remote so would suggest doing that ASAP, link below to help > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/1543-alarm-system/?p=24257

Well it is indeed possible as I seen it done & had correct it myself, both springs for the sls & non sls are virtually same besides length little different & Kg spring rates not same. Many people tried replacing the sls with kyb strut & reuse old spring & that how found spring specs different between the 2 & need the matching non sls spring to match the non sls strut. I will supply you with both kyb spring part numbers (may help garage) & hopefully some spec details if can, could be few hours as a busy late afternoon .

Is also possible struts wrong ones but that more unlikely as kyb list them only (even for sls model) when parts put in info on the database, with springs if they see it sls model they tend supply same sls kyb spec springs unless clued up on the conversion ... pretty sure the struts have model number stamper in the body as well as the red KYB sticker .

Yeh sounds like a plan, have good hunt round the cars holding pockets etc as may find the wheel socket, if notyou can normally bash a socket on to get them off. My guess is someone done the rear suspension & used new kyb springs but sls ones rather than non sls (seen it done more than once :-S )

They have kyb stamped on them !? any chance of photo .

Yeh that deffo sagging on the rear . should have stamped number on the kyb struts. Springs more tricky on knowing what they fitted but I know if you fit the sls springs (kyb do sls spec springs as well) you get sag as they not same height or spring rate as the non sls so possible parts man ran it through computer and supplied original sls spec when should of been non sls. Have good look at struts for numbers, if they right I would advise getting a set of springs from springcoil.co.uk & specify 15-20mm extra ride height over their standard as then allows for some loading. If heavy towing get higher spring rates. Set of springs from them is about £130 but quality very good & they good on phone as done a few now for the forester non sls conversions.

I would remove the filler first so you know you can get oil back in, then remove drain & once drained inspect plug & threads in drain hole. you may improve it with new plug but also some pu40 black sealer (everbuild) on the threads & nipped to point before slips then left cure for hour or 2 before filling could make it serviceable as is, you may get plug matched in a decent motorfactors or try ICP or local Subaru as doubt it that expensive :-S Thread repair is possible but bit of a pain.

SLS is made buy tokico & looks much the same, some had external oil canister & some didn't. If looks saggy or you carry load/towing you could try new springs & perhaps get a pair from springcoil & spec them sliightly stiffer rate & 15-20mm over standard ride height. Would be good measure your ride height on rear.

Turbo related then, boost leak if lucky. Look at the 2 diagrams for auto & manual rad & make a decision from that. Thought I linked manual but see was auto. manual example below http://www.carcooling.co.uk/products/Radiator_Subaru_Forester_1994_cc_1998_02_08_98_05_02_2_0_i_16V_AWD_Turbo_S_Manual_vehicles_with_A_C_340_686_16mm_12SU305-115087-1125.html

Rad example > http://www.carcooling.co.uk/products/Radiator_Subaru_Forester_1994_cc_1998_02_08_98_05_02_2_0_i_16V_AWD_Turbo_S_Automatic_vehicles_without_A_C_340_686_16mm_12SU306-115088-1125.html Does whine stop if clutch depressed !?

With ICP it cheaper buy direct as they load prices on eBay because of eBay fees & paypal fees. http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=1546&cat=96⊂=103&sec=1538&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= I buy mine from The Bearing Shop exeter mainly, any bearing supplier will do these so if your garage uses a bearing shop could be worth checking price with them. I use old bearings outer races as press drifts, you may want throw yours through a euro car parts window though :-)

Sounds good ... 1st time lucky :-)

^ for you the bit near bottom on 1999 to 2002 is relevant, if your car a EU model & has the 99 on style OBD2 plug you got better diagnostic options purely as more support for that protocol system.

diagnostic software http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/?p=63645