Mr B

Gerlach germany do alu-steel cat back system for 2.5 & 3.0 outback/legacy for about £120 for the parts (includes gaskets etc). Not bad quality for money as have used them myself (3yr warranty I think). Just buy system yourself & check/measure it looks right & matches what ordered then pop into a decent local independent garage, should be fitted well in under 2hrs .

I have done a fair few 2.5 HG & if it not been used much or leakage minimal then you will be ok just doing the heads, I done a few that way & know they been good as still service & mot them. no idea on state of your lump though as need see & here it to make those decisions ...

i buy all my cars private if possible, normally were best cars are found if you know the basics to avoid major issues. I expect seller did know but chances of proving this in court will be next to zero, seller will state he not knowledgeable & will also push point vehicle was open to any inspection so then it your fault for not inspecting properly. 2.5 lumps a notorious for HG issues . The law is an a55 & I feel your pain, don't go trusting dealers too much as they experts at peddling turds & can play the law as well clued up on it. Main trick when buying a car is test & look at everything, take no notice of sellers/owners & don't rush into things.

You could try the 2008 model online manual: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2008/Forester%202008/index.html As for alarm that does come with its own booklet. Sigma M30 doc link below which has good info inc how reset 4 digit code with just a working remote. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

I still have 2 hp dv2500 14" notebooks (over 8 years old) we use with diagnostic software, they run windows 7 32bit with 4gb ram (use 3.5gb), have been fitted with 2.4ghz duo core processors (£20 ebay), improved heat clamping on cpu & gpu & increased fan intake & case venting, fitted decent 128gb ssd drive & rom drive dumped for platter hdd & they boot in under 40 seconds (that to usable desktop inc antivirus-avast running & password) & run way way better than most new laptops plus dirt cheap to fix if parts pop. Most new stuff is junk with nothing but big technical numbers that mean f00k all really. Windows 7 was & still is f00king brilliant, why people want go to 8 or 10 without good reason is beyond me ...

genuine new gaskets won't leak if fitted right & nothing damaged or over tightened . Ideally you want complete cover gasket set, old gaskets can be used with bit of sealer instead of new when supply/time or money an issue . oem gaskets to pattern part gaskets are night & day in quality & fit difference. I only use oem as almost 100% eliminates issues so job jobbed first time & for a long time.

If using new oem gaskets then right sealant is none, just lightly rub them through fingertips with smidge of grease as helps hold in place & bed down to seal. If using old ones or buy cheap tat gasket off ebay then the 5699 would be ok to keep um from weeping ....

Seems you have an android phone you probably best trying a bluetooth obd dongle & torque app as first step as they cheap. A good old cable & notebook with some software is good too. Some links at bottom of linked post may be helpful (torque app, pc software, eBay link). http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/#entry63645 other option is a cheapish handheld, they tend have less connection issues to ecu over the china elm327 bt dongle scanners, quality of the china elm327 stuff is bit iffy as newer ones are all about even cheaper manufacture so they have more compatibility problems . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autel-Autolink-AL319-OBD-II-EOBD-Code-Reader-/111745966028?hash=item1a04941fcc

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2005/

£45 to push one button (F11) i'm in the wrong trade :-(

^ as above really... ideally want remove lower cover & revisit it as certainly don't look like a decent job .

I think 10 could be a good one but I'll let it sort itself out first & get bugs, more drivers & tweaks developed before I test it.

I use couple of lenovo's, f11 at boot should be one for factory recovery if you have a working recovery partition on the hdd. What I would do is use an iso of windows 7 ultimate & then use windowsloader-v2.2.2 to activate it, as you had valid oem windows 7 on it you will have right bios SLIC & all windowsloader will do is add the cert & key to make it oem activated same as was originally. I'm sticking with current 7 for quite some time as everything running perfect & don't want hassles with workshop computers when running A1 smooth & fast on unbloated 7 from SSD drives .. old is sometimes gold. chasing new os updates is not always best ...

good jap bearings are 30 to 40 £ each set, hub bearing puller tool can be had for snip under £44 & good enough for diy enthusiasm & light trade use. these kits make it real easy & less chance of damaging a bearing during fitting. Hubs & spindle normally ok unless bearing got silly hot or seized & spun. main trick is don't use cheap or non jap bearings & get it fitted by someone who knows what they doing or wheel bearing failure start becoming a monthly problem ...

Good luck Phil ...

yep sigma, you could get the wiring diagram for that & temory cut the feed to indicators which would prove area of fault or eliminate the alarm perhaps. Quite sure I come across similar issue of indicators stuck on & it was sigma module with bad relay for the indicator control, relay was soldered in the module too :-/ Jumping the gun a bit as need some more clues first ...

What alarm is it ? Could be main indicator relay but I would be more inclined think linked to alarm relay for flashers. Try arming disarming alarm & see if sometimes or a t least once they don't stay on .

Possibly ballast or bad wiring. Best bet is a used tested ballast if you find ballast is the fault. they are a pain to get to as you already suggest. As for indicator issue I would think it likely relay in alarm module for indicators I assume if put fuse in with car running indicators will work fine but when arm/disarm alarm you get the issue !? If is alarm a quick fix could be going into alarm setting via keypad (assume you got sigma) and turn off setting for indicator flash & then test. sigma manual below if applicable to you ... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing EDIT: looks like bleeps is only one selectable in settings & not indicators :-/

another reason many get odd alignment readings is because many staff do real sloppy job on setting up & using equipment so be real sure you shop & staff are above average or you just wasting good money.

Most garages who use to doing these will do it on car using a bearing puller kit, it far quicker & also a very smooth way of fitting the bearing. Buy top quality jap bearings only, any local bearing shop can do these or as stants suggests use ICP (importcarparts.co.uk), price should be about £35 per bearing kit. If doing yourself look at getting a bearing puller such as this > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23PC-FRONT-CAR-WHEEL-BEARING-REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-TOOL-KIT-GARAGE-MECHANIC-SET-/321818864951?hash=item4aede62d37

Michelin Latitude Cross are nice daily road & off road tyre, Continental ContiCrossContact LX also not bad & ok for light off road.

^ I would pick up a Banner or Yausa brand from local motor factor as good batts, their stock cycle good so battery fresh & well cared for & warranty is good & easy, Only 2 brands I use as got fed up with other makes & too common short life span.

bad battery !

2 tyre sizes I use a lot for off road foresters is 205/75/15 & 215/75/15, the 215/75/15 is almost same size as 215/70/16, I found them to be ok even for quite heavy load/towing as well as light off road use & not notice much difference in power/torque due to the larger diameter tyres effect on gearing ...

s.devon, 14miles south of exeter. I would say the drop link mounts are not bad as is, the main arb mount bracket are probably first weak link & only really major problem if corroded, super easily modded with a plate welded on side & feeding off to feet that bolt to chassis much along the lines of the whiteline ones .