Mr B

MEYLE drop links are very very good, ICP do cheaper ones as a pair at under £22 if want keep costs minimal. (left & right are exactly same so just order 2 from that one listing) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Rear-Right-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-Part-34-16-060-0004-HD-/351190480626?fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item51c49576f2:g:StsAAOSw6EhUNBH4 As for no pattern on lights it maybe bulbs or lens clouded, plastic lenses on these do go cloudy, they can be polished with quality m3 cutting compound, would of thought they would of been more descriptive on that one even if only verbally. Take a good look at them & see what you can see, clouded lenses being quite common & low power dip may not shine through bight enough to show enough lens pattern !

the roof rack bars clamp to the recess on the roof bars, the subaru originals are about the best neat fit but other decent brands listed compatible will do the job, thule for example do a real nice alloy closed ends one specific for SG but it not cheap. Mounting tyre on roof will make fuel consumption worse defeating some of the point of having lpg, the lpg wheel well tanks are a PITA., you looking at standing it in boot to one side on a bracket or complex job of a rear hanger, can fabricate these off the bar that runs behind the bumper & is part of tow bar but good effort is not easy or cheap. for pre 2008 frame-less windows the deflectors are very limited to the oem ones if can find them, they not that good/useful in my opinion .

wish my wife was only 20 lol ...

down to floor ! constant flexing killed those .

I would pull rear door card off & inspect right at motor to try see what failing & trace wires/colours without error, try a temporary new earth too .

last one i come across was scruffy 03 sg, high miles & 1,600, don't see many cheap sf's on lpg as trend came in around sg's. hope you find one but it will be hard this time of year I reckon, doubt I see 4 lpg foresters in a year. take lpg out of the equation & you'll find something reasonably decent for £750 & scruffy for £400 .

budget is a bit short for a lpg one & more so this time of year when prices tend be higher. half decent foresters at 1k are short on supply & with lpg even more so .

not at that speed, many tend last close to 100k miles ! I would suggest using an after market alloy treaded pedal cover rather than the rubber . perfectly fine for mot too .

Have a look at this post & measure rear suspension accurately & on level ground, check front too & see if falls into serviceable height limits. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/#entry42477 Issues with rear SLS tend to be internal in most cases so a perfectly healthy looking strut can be junk. If need new you are best going for non SLS from KYB as they at bargain price at moment & use non SLS springs with them or if tow a lot or carry heavy load get custom springs with say +20mm and/or higher spring rate/progressive from springcoil.co.uk . Prices for parts would not be more than £250 for both rear struts, boots/bumps & springs & KYB has 2 year warranty which a bonus over used SLS units.

geometry & wheel to arch centre alignment goes out at 2" & well out over 3" & up, other issue is drive shaft angles on very high lifts. You best making most of tyre size at that gives ground clearance gain on hub/links/wishbone & saves overdoing driveshaft angles. Is amazing where they will go, seen a few videos in US & Russia & it is totally surprising. looks clean from that 1 pic, AWP great comfort too, totally unlike a landy lol . How much lift you planning on doing ? Look forward to some pics :-)

Looks nice, do love the SF Foresters with passion . Done a few lifts on these, best way is combination of block & springs such as - 40mm block on strut hats & +30mm springs from springcoil.co.uk For more than 50mm lift you need make position spacers for the rear trailing links to centralise wheel in arch, also rear camber bolts to correct camber. You can gain a bit more with larger tyres but not much as fowl strut spring seat & arch easily, you can swap to SG struts which has little more clearance. alloy skid pan handy up front lipped up at front bumper, similar on back handy too & can save rear bumper. They are surprisingly good & don't get stuck easily, enjoy :-) . I would pick up a set of oem SF steel rims (can be found dirt cheap) for your offroad tyres & go full out on those to improve your landy embarrassing capability & keep current rims for road/all season tyres .

Turbo is more thirsty, more insurance & more stringent maintenance. Can be good buy though if come across a real mint one, tend find a few sport sf fozzies in super condition & sensible price ...

I prefer the SF 97-2002 Forester myself, they look better & are far more solid. thicker steel especially in rear inner arch panel. Interior is far more durable too . 120k is nothing, just give usual checks along with good inspection on rear inner arch/turrets & rear subframe as these can rot a bit especially if car been on a farm or similar . also check rear suspension for sagging & gearbox/transmission for noise/slack-clunking . SF's can be a bargain, I picked up a real clean 1999 green one with 134K & full dealer extras for under £800 2 months ago, similar spec & condition SG would be £2,000 so SF models are always worth a serious look, you also save £50 on road tax for pre 2001-1st March one which nice ...

^ optimal struts > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-FORESTER-2-0-1997-2002-NEW-REAR-LEFT-RIGHT-SHOCK-ABSORBER-/301510004424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item4633658ec8&clk_rvr_id=958385094981&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true suplex springs > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032034-/141542632909?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASF&hash=item20f4992dcd&clk_rvr_id=958381095053&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true New strut boot & bump stops probably > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Protection-Kit-To-Fit-A-SUBARU-FORESTER-KYB-910072-/161277879413?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item258ce92475&clk_rvr_id=958412920878&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true Ride height with that will be close to normal turbo range to perhaps +10mm, will be firmer than old dead sls & 17yr old springs All those parts will cost about £190, if you need top hats for struts they about £45ish each ...

Make one, use dog guard as mounting/attachment point.

^ A good MOT man would fail that, you need the proper check sequence of light on then off . I would check & clean connectors under seats with elec contact spray as they prone to issues of being knocked or dirty. Ribbon spring in steering column is possible too but not so common. Being a safety feature which could also maim you severely when faulty & also invalidate insurance in some circumstances it best done right ...

Shock you linked to from eBay is NOT a forester shock (it not even a strut). SF KYB Excel G shocks are > Right Absorber KYB 334191 Left Absorber KYB 334192 You probably have SLS if it UK model, they done SLS shocks without remote canisters & only way now for sure is inspect shock/spring or check part number. You can fit any SF model shock from likes of Optimal & KYB just be sure fit with matching non SLS new springs. even the later SG rear shocks do fit if want to but I wouldn't go that route unless wanting clearance benefit of sg strut & over standard height gain . thread below with most info > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/13283-bargain-forester-sf-rear-strut-replacement-fix-saggy-butt/

In your budget & low mileage 'star performer sptv a/s' could be option if buy from giga tyres at points in week when euro dips they can be had under £46 each, local fitting would be around £12 a tyre although good ATS outlets sometimes will do 4 for £40 if you lucky. I got a set of 205/70/15 SPTV winter for old run-about fozzy at £36 a tyre from giga tyres, look super good for money & hoping try them out in snow soon. Have a couple customers using these & when questioned them they been more than happy, one user does twice your annual mileage & used them in ice, snow, muddy lanes, rain & motorways & been very pleased . Optimo 4s is good but high end of your budget & not sure do your factory size.

^ 3 idlers 1 hydraulic tensioner & the belt. £45 for parts would cover belt only on a good day from a main dealer I would of thought !

That dealer only changing belt, if change guide rollers & tensioner is way more than that. personally at 60K you can indeed only change belt if rest passes inspection then at next change do the lot. in US & OZ belt service is 105K (same belt/parts) as they couldn't pull the low service intervals as drivers do lot more mileage & use to domestic vehicle with 90K plus belt service points.

you got to love subaru in general come mot, quite rare have much wrong unless very poorly maintained at some point.

whole car looks proper silver in that shot. How durable are you finding the paint, had a few owners of newer cars complaining about easy chipping & scratching but that a big issue on a lot of newer vehicles with modern paints.

@dogconker thought you had a white one or is that someone else !

I would do 25mm lift blocks for top hat (quite easy get these made up) then add some custom 35mm lift srings (springcoil.co.uk) Splitting lift by using both blocks & springs is better than using springs alone as you loose too much strut travel with spring alone. cheapest way would be 50mm lift blocks but not the best way.

^ see works fine & is real simple solution for anyone . what I used was croc clips off some old scrap leads & a pp3 clip connector & soldered & sleeved them to cut lengths of wire, you can get quite nice pp3 plastic battery box with switch (99p on ebay) which would make a safe neat & tidy home user one. I use it with rechargeable pp3 as we have a recharge station in workshop for AA's mainly but it can do couple of pp3's as use them in our elec testers. beats paying 10-20 £ for for portable retail solution that no better .