Mr B

First thing I would do is fault code check & log data from sensors while on a quick test drive, second thing would be checking plugs & leads as they super common for issues, plugs don't get checked or changed as much as should as hard to get at, leads can fail due to long route & tough conditions. lots of other things could be to blame but worth ticking off very basics before spending out.

Best bet with exhaust is likes of powerflow or similar to make up a custom stainless. For scraping/scuffing it worth checking hub for play with dial gauge as bearing play will allow spindle tilt & disc is on the spindle so this tilts & scuffs on discs or shield.

Bit unsure how it exactly change but worth thinking about & researching when buying the 2.5 & 3.0 cars .

tax bands are being revised in next 2 years so keep an eye on it & buy wisely or you could end up with big bill & depreciated market value ...

A little mainly as specify rates little stiffer again over the kyb springs which nice on the XT. you should find the kyb springs & struts stiffer than standard ...

Only just out the workshop, late one unfortunately, just checked in the KYB catalogue to be sure and 910046 are 100% correct to pair with the struts you will be using. used them myself on SG versions & no problems. On the XT the springcoil custom springs tend be better than the kyb springs .

^ no they not. if linkage/mount just broken/corroded then a linkage & mount can be fabricated. You could try ICP importcarparts.co.uk as they might be able supply one, other option is subaru breakers ! :-/

Not 100% sure, have swapped remote boards in them & the responder chip is somewhere in housing, they quite small. Have a word with some auto locksmiths & also see if subaru can confirm how new key comes, whether blank shank or complete housing ! A new key with transponder is about £20 or a little over, it may work fine with 2 transponders & still pick up the proper one but it also may be temperamental. another option (but fiddly) if key is moulded in is cutting it so a stub sticks out then cut down new key to overlap & drill 2 holes for very small machines screws & tap them or even rivets, then tidy the join & add 2 or 3 layers of heat shrink tube, key overall would become a little longer but could be neat result with some patience, done similar to keys for workshop door that has custom lock.

Best without 2 transponder chips so ideally needs removing, tweaking another blank in it should be possible with bit of innovation but indeed it could be used like a fob.

^ +1 on that What I would like to see is tighter control on vehicle tyre, brake & suspension in term of police fines & mot inspection. Should have a fixed age for shock replacement as most 15+ year old shocks are far from best. Better road surfaces, better signs & more consistent road layouts would also reduce accidents & lives far more than fines but that costs money rather than making money :-/

By looks of it it will be free to anyone with valid 7 - 8 windows already. From what I seen it will be far better than 8 but as new for sure will have a few glitches for some. See if Gambit has tested it on his mums computer yet :-D

Not super simple, new key will also incorporate transponder chip cloned from current key which will need go into the fob along with cut down blank, good helpful auto locksmith will do it or you can chop it about yourself, transponder chip is very small.

^ Insurance vehicle inspectors are a pain in the butt . most of time minor stuff generally overlooked but in a big accident it can be used as a cop-out by insurers leaving you up 5hit creek, crazy really when just a quality part doing same or better than oem part !

lots of things could fit but not exactly plug & play. inbuilt sat nav is junk on most cars as get old & update hassle is right pain on many. I prefer buying without sat nav & adding my own. If was mine I would replace it .

Only other thing I can think of with a proper linkage that connects to a plate & would only be on drives side would be height sensor for models with HID headlights ... If still knocking then ball joint is possible & quite common, should be able see play in it & actual ball joint not expensive: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moog-OE-Quality-Replacement-Suspension-Ball-Joint-SU-BJ-104141-/131632896273

Not a modification really but if concerned, worth telling your insurers & getting response in writing. Funny lot insurance, drive round on 10year old+ suspension & it fine but spend good money make your vehicle handle better thus safer with new suspension parts & it could be hassle ! Suspension bushes are a bigger concern, things like poly bushes especially castor, anti-lift etc .

Your XT will have SLS at it standard on them. the drop links on the SGs are metal - ball joints both ends. when suspension good order rear should be higher than front. rear with weak/failing SLS tends to sag anything between 20 & 50mm Easy to replace the struts and springs. KYB excel G are heavier damping than standard & slightly stiffer springs from springcoil.co.uk make a big difference too. you need new springs to pair with any aftermarket strut as the SLS springs are slightly shorter & softer rating than non SLS. It not expensive & all parts at moment come to less than £250. Thread on it linked below> http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/ One simple thing to check on handling is tyre pressures as low pressures = awful handling on these, on XT I recommend 3psi over standard pressures. Difference is night & day between 1 or 2 soft tyres & all setup correct.

job jobbed, well done ...

That will be the sigma alarm, you should have a 4 digit code to go with that & drop down keypad in coin tray near driver right knee. If you don't have a 4 digit code you can reprogram one while have working remote & best done as when remote lost/busted you stuck. Your problem sounds like door, boot or bonnet switch, boots can be a pain so check shut proper, check bonnet switch which should be on metal bracket behind the 2 bolts that hold washer bottle on, what can happens with those is careless mechanic puts them back in wrong hole on the bracket so switch not contacting on bonnet, also check wiring for it & check all door switches seem be working via interior light or better via multimeter. doc on the sigma alarm is linked below that maybe useful. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

Any SG 2003-2005 will fit but not easily found used in great order & sensible price.

for the SG XT fozzys I would recommend getting likes of a powerflow centre to do you a custom copy based off original, prices are quite good & you will get required spec & perfect fit.

only other issue here in uk with 2.5 is potential for road tax costs, they going up all the time & cut off age for price brackets could alter so sticking to 2.0 can be safer bet. as said head gasket more prone to issues on 2.5, main thing is finding good cared for car, sounds sweet, gearbox & transmission still smooth/tight & body straight/original paint. few tweaks on 2.0 xt will net you more power should you want/need it ...

I would avoid transmech clutches ... I really like the LUK clutch. remove box, is quite easy & in many ways far better than a small fwd car, just knock out drive shaft pins, remove prop & rest is the usual, very good access & most stuff well thought out so quite pleasant job but on old fozzy a few corroded bits may hamper the job.

Clicking you here is probably the elec-clutch on the compressor. if whole functions are dead it likely power supply/relay or the the console controls as being electronic they can play up as you describe & I have replaced a couple before due to full failure.

www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk