Mr B

^ about £1500 for decent job on heads based on engine decent in general & that includes quality gaskets/parts and basic machine work such as skimming & valve work, absolute no to touching bottom end unless you got some hint of other problems & then it a full engine out & rebuild.

what AP Racing clutch !? organic or ceramic paddle ? Have you let it bed in before hammering it ? What is power output of your car ?

Check them first, you have 2 , one on front suspension & one on rear. it could be linked to your saggy rear end causing the level warning light, try disconnecting the rear sensor arm & positioning it so it thinks rear is sitting higher & see if warning light goes out ! Normally issue with these is dead sensor or corrosion on plugs/contacts, they live in a vulnerable place so do get issues. Check connectors on sensors & feed voltage/earth then find the signal wire & check the voltage reading varies as arm of sensor moved. very rare have issues else where unless accident repaired car or you very unlucky.

summer 10w40 fine, winter 5w40 good option, high hp & track use then 10w60 good. for your mileage & if mainly being used as road car then 5w40 all year round would be fine. Millers cfs is a good oil, I use it a lot in subarus & nissans.

^ yeh it not a big issue if not towing or carrying weight, rear should be little higher than front when in good order. Can go for years in light use & the fix with kyb shocks & springcoil springs is easy on wallet & fitting & good end result too . Enjoy the Fozzy & do main important stuff like brakes & take rest as & when needed.

^looking at rear wheel to arch & rear sill to floor either it got something heavy in boot or SLS sagging. Could be photo angle, car angle but I'm thinking not.

I think Bitmans keen eye might be right on rear ride height. you won't see leaks because issue is the self levelling valve system fails within the struts. they drop between 25 & 55mm with this problem but appear fine besides ride height. Normally towing or heavy loads & poor roads wear them out quicker but in general they can go for 100K or more before start sagging. SLS struts are made by Tokiko & only available from Subaru at not a nice price. You can fit non SLS KYB excel G struts from the SG forester & get matching non SLS springs from springcoil.co.uk for a little under £200 the lot. Have a thread on it with links to parts if needed.

Good luck with Subaru dealers :-S some will be more flexible in offering support and as a major safety item they should be dealing with it no quibble as parts are cheap to them & it easy fit too. You should be able source some used alloy ones though so won't be too bad :-/

Yes they can corrode from inside out, main difference of recall part was anti rust wax treatment to the inside Hopefully subaru will offer you something if vehicle shows not to of had the recall done. If not sourcing the alloy wishbones from xt or sti is way to go.

What wrong with yours ? easy & cheap to fit bushes & balljoint if arms not bent, cracked or corroded badly, cracked arb mounts can be repaired though. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/14685-subaru-forester-2001-wishbone-arm-bush-problem/#entry91009 If do need new arms then try ICP (Import Car Parts) or source used, you can used alloy arms from some XT models or Imprezas.

Have a look at this, may help. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2009/Forester%202009/index.html most dealers are useless at this sort of repair so avoiding them is wise move .

Indeed it happens but you just as likely fit a bad pump (more so if not fussy on brand purchased) as have a low mileage one bad. Ideal time to change them is between 80 to 120k for average road car (ideally second belt change) ...

I wouldn't if only mild performance & road use. they designed see over 100k service life. I tend advise them on second belt change in your scenario, if replace it be sure fit something of good quality or you actually going backwards, the oem pumps are very high quality so you want something like Aisin ideally. The uk service interval on subaru cambelts is awfully low & replacing a waterpump every belt change is a waste of good pumps generally.

^ I would not include pump at that mileage but would just inspect bearing feel when doing job, pumps last 3x that mileage with ease & twice the age in general . I've done a few legacy & foresters in 120K & up with original pumps & we change them at that mileage, at 43K it wasting a good quality servicable part in most cases of normal car/usage.

^ what mileage & use is the car ! If like its second belt change & under 100K I probably wouldn't change it unless inspection shows otherwise. If car gets track use then it would be changed to be sure. Review the mileage of car & do what think best for you, it easier in my scenario as normally I got a pump in stock anyway so can easily fit one when not initially intending to. I would go with dayco myself.

^ depends on age/mileage really & feel of bearing once belt off. I do them on any high mileage when looks like original one purely as a belt & brace approach & save drama of pump leaks after the work or bearing failing & taking belt with it. Original pumps are bl00dy good though & seen them do 160K & over 200K without drama, but do remember that the change of belt could change drive line & load on pump slightly so if not in best of health problems can arise. Don't use cheap pumps though & avoid the 5hite from likes of euro car parts.

Dayco is good, part of the company who do OEM subaru, prices from ICP direct (not via ebay) not too bad either. Did a bit of a guide on belt changing will try & find the thread, just really look at everything well & observe timing marks prior to removal & make extra marks to make job easy & less doubt once assembled.

Torque GT is local to me & I have done vehicle inspections on some of their stock & it not always matching the write-up & price to be polite. If going for a vehicle over 10yrs old don't be put off doing registration uk end yourself as it cheap & super simple & opens up more supply options & the budget can go on actual top auction grade car rather than traders profit .

Just use the unblocked torrent sites & either adjust your current torrent client settings or use old & simple torrent client like utorrent1.8 unblocked > https://unblocked.pw/

Wishbone has 2 bushes the front bush is press in or can use a quality polybush (bush not handed) £10 to £14 press in 'Febi-Bilstein' http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371286547939 polybush 'StrongFlex' http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271423547325 The rear bush-bracket is handed when comes complete with cast bracket for easy bolt on fitting, quality good, i used a fair few of these. £26 rear right hand > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 I always do rears in pairs, left hand listed below should you want to. rear left hand > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200903868974 To complete the wishbone parts below is the ball joint, Delphi brand as about the best in the under £12 price range. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191409996160

^ Bit odd as works for me ! It is Suplex spring part number 32036 (SUP32036) It is item number 321311923644 try link below > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321311923644

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Coil-spring-To-Fit-SUBARU-FORESTER-SUPLEX-SUP32036-/321311923644?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASF&hash=item4acfaeddbc

sls on non sls struts makes them sag low. what model you got, sf turbo wil be sls plus the turbo springs are different again as ride height about 10-15mm lower. kyb & suplex both list specific springs for turbo sf model. If rear sagging it likely that struts sls at fault, some earlier units of sls had external oil canister (bit like coke can strapped to side of strut) many don't as design changed so if any doubts to what fitted refer to any part numbers or get subaru parts answer the question ...

Yeh that was good. Glad job jobbed :-) Ride height sounds about right, ideally want little over standard sls height as 1: it old & 2: without sls it would sag to much with some loading if not bit of ride height gain to start with. springcoil springs are top quality & those excel G struts are very decent (2yr KYB warranty) & a bl00dy bargain really.

Just make some square covers with rounded corners out of alloy plate or plastic, spray them to match bumper & bond on with bit of pu40 adhesive sealer. I would probably replace the washer button with a blanking cover but no real need if power cut from fuse box or appropriate point.