Swayze88

How do you find the RAV4? I've now got a Corolla sport touring for a work car at the moment, (still got the orange XV), it's the 2.0 hybrid so no plug in and I get around 50mpg, it's really not as great as I'd expect. But generally a very OK car, not exciting but comfortable and quiet, with quite a lot of space for people and luggage. As a company car it makes sense to use it as the main vehicle so the XV only does a couple trips a week. One thing I have noticed is how heavy / slow the XV steering is in comparison.

Selling our 2013 Subaru XV as we now have a company car and no longer need. Car has 91,950 miles on the clocks. We have two XVs as they really are excellent. This car has been a great car, and we have had very little issue with it, you'll find all my issues in the XV forums 🙂, and the car has been maintained as per the handbook as well as intermittent oil changes. Like most the car has done relatively low mileage this year, but had all MOT issues resolved during its last MOT. The car will need new tyres soon as they are getting low. The paintwork is in good condition, with a few typical stone chips, there is a scratch on the front bumper shown in the picture, this is the worst of the damage. Great MPG for a subaru, which is very capable in the snow and rain. For some reason my pictures are not uploading at the moment, so here is a link to FB Market Place where you can see them until I work out what's wrong: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3878333122205620/

So I can't remember how I fixed this (Doh!) That does however mean it can't have been too difficult. I expect I would have done a lot of spraying with WD40 and probably a lot of locking unlocking while wiggling the child lock and pulling the handle. I might have pulled the door card off, but honestly I don't remember. You'll probably just have to do the wiggling with a screwdriver as the stalk has broken. Good luck I hope you get it fixed.

Howdy, and welcome! I'm not sure about repair manuals i'm afraid, i think your right that Haynes does not offer one for the diesel XV 😞 if there are any specific questions feel free to ask them here, there are enough of us who have done some tinkering that hopefully we can help with any questions! As for fuel consumption, was this the result from one journey or the lifelong fuel consumption? I'd expect to see low to mid 40s regularly, depending on driving style and conditions. Also i've noted that mine is always bad for consumption in the first 10 or 15 mins while the engine is getting warm, so if its only a short journey you did, this could be the problem? The low 35.1 might be as a result of it being sat on a sales lot and only started to charge the battery or take it on test drives? Reset the trip computer next time your out for a decent dive and see what you get. I'm sure your mechanic has already checked, but make sure to change the oil and filter if its been sitting a while - also i don't know about you, but i don't trust sales garages to have completed the maintenance they say they have!

I think it's an aftermarket badge on the boot and the stone guard on the bonnet. Even American Crosstreks don't have the branding on the centre of the boot if I remember correctly. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

They are the same thing, the XV is the European name for the American Crosstrek. [emoji106] Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Hey, and welcome. Is this a diesel or a petrol model you are looking? We have a 2013 diesel xv and it is just approaching that kind of mileage. So far outwith usual discs, pads, filters and fluids, all we have had to do is change wheel bearings, and the boot release switch. Bearings can be expensive using a subaru main dealer, but reasonable with an independent garage. I think soon we will need some general wear and tear items like bushings etc, but probably nothing out of the ordinary for that kind of mileage. As for a spare wheel, you will have to raise the boot floor slightly, remove the inserts, there was an option to get this from the showroom, but how many went for it I do not know. We have survived (touch wood) with just the gunk and tire inflator. I expect you would be able to get a tire for around £100. On that note, tyres can be an unexpected cost as you are supposed to change all 4 at the same time, so for that reason, its worth getting them rotated and an alignment done to make the most of them. Let us know what engine and gearbox you are looking at and hopefully someone can guide you on price.

Oh, that's strange, not heard of that one before I'm afraid. Hopefully some one can help out. Best of luck. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

When you say fail, do you mean all the warning lights coming on the dash, but steering still working? We have had this problem on our 11 plate and 13 plate XVs. As you state, it appears to be most common when you start the car then immediately turn the wheel, certainly I seem to think that starting the car then waiting until all the warning lights (the 3 orange ones) on the dash clear before making any steering input helps. Hopefully taking an extra 3-5 seconds after starting the car will help solve the issue. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Had to do the front right wheel bearing over the weekend and was dreading it! It actually ended up being not too bad. Still had to do a fair bit of deconstruction to get access, but managed to chap it out using the 4 bolts. Maybe the fronts just get less rust? Was about 4 hours on the driveway with a bit of tea drinking while waiting for the hammerite to dry on the brake dust shield. Fingers crossed if I have to do one again it's this painless.

Ours are out of warranty now, so no chance of a replacement that way. I ended up going with an NRF easy fix unit. I expect it will go the same way as the original in 2 or 3 years, but fingers crossed. It was about £200 cheaper than the Subaru unit. Garage that fitted it seemed to suggest it was an easy fit, and it seems to be blowing cold air for the first time in its life, so that's good. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

We've got 2 Diesels. Ones up near 90K (13 plate) the other at 55k(61 plate). So far problems I've had are wheel bearings on the 90k I've done both rears, and need to do a front now. The 55k has not has any wheel bearing problems. Both have crap AC, I've just yesterday replaced the Condenser on the 55k car, haven't really tested to see if it's working yet, it uses the new r1234yf gas so it's expensive. So if your getting one from a garage get them to top it up for you. This is going to be a problem with any newer car, but just a warning. The 90k car scrubbed a set of tyres really quickly (10/12k maybe?) due to poor alignment from the garage, but they seem to be doing better on tyres now. I think I just got 27k out of a set of kuhmo grugens and they were still legal when I changed them. Both cars needed to go in to be checked for a wiring harness problem. The 55k car needed to have a replacement harness fitted (under warranty) but it's the only one I've heard of needing done. The bog standard cd/radio is pretty poor, but again, could just be signal in our area. I'm not sure about any of the sat nav versions. Other than these small faults, so far we have not had anything frightening. There are a few rattles and clunk's starting to appear, but I think that's down to the condition of our roads more than anything else. Hope you find a good one. Any more questions, let us know. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Looking forward to seeing what you do. I also used the carbon wrap on the roof bars as I thought the black silver looked a bit odd. It's still on, but didn't stick too well, luckily my cross bars mostly hold it in place! Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Close up of the carbon wrap and the orange overlay. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Can confirm, orange with black looks better than orange with chrome. I actually ended up doing mine first with halfords plasti dip (it looked OK, then chipped badly) , then again with carbon wrap, it's held up much better and looks good imo. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Thanks Ian, Sent you a PM. Cheers Euan

Hi Ian, I'm interested in the dog guard, based in South Lanarkshire, but wouldn't be able to head up your way before the end of September. Would you consider posting? Cheers Euan

Yeah, I know what you mean, not sure if it's the original or not, I believe there were a few issues with the original condensers (true or not I'm not sure ) due to the change from R134a to R1234yf. Just seems a big difference in price. One thing that's putting me off a Denso unit is that it is always listed as R134a, if it is then it may not last. Wouldn't be such a bother if you didn't have £100+ of gas contained in it. Could replace the condenser 3 times or maybe even warranty it, but you'd have to replace the gas.

Ah, yeah, the top panel multi function display has the reversing camera so didn't need to change that. How's the DAB signal in yours? Where did they put the aerial? Mine is on the front window passenger side (uk) and the signal is rubbish, making it unusable.

Took the car in to get the AC looked at as it's been rubbish since I got the car (2012 diesel XV) 18 months ago. The garage tested and found a small leak in the condenser, a genuine Subaru part is going to cost in the region of £300, plus an hour and a half fitting and gas. Probably around £500/£550 all in. The garage are happy for me to get an aftermarket condenser and they will fit and fill it. Question is: has anyone used any aftermarket AC condensers, any to recommend /avoid. Or should I bite the bullet and go OEM? Online I can see aftermarket ranging from £70 to about £120, a denso one would cost around £100. That's a big saving if it lasts a reasonable length, most seem to have a 2 year guarantee. Comments and thoughts greatly appreciate.

So it sounds like we have been going through this at the same time, I've been waiting 3 weeks for a fitting kit from Halfords, only to find out it won't be in stock for the foreseeable. Anyway I contacted Dynamic sounds and was able to get the wires but not the facia, I used CTSSU002.2 with Additional Stereo patch lead CTMULTILEAD. 2, which was free. This allowed me to remove my old cd radio, and replace with a Sony Android auto unit. I also used a halfords DAB stick on areial. The reversing camera still functions on the upper screen, and steering wheel controls work, and are programmable from the head unit. Just needing to find a facia and work out why the DAB signal is so... Poor... Sorry I didn't read this a week ago else I might have been able to help.

Hey, Just been doing my daily troll through the Subaru and XV Crosstrek pages on Reddit, and came across an interesting link to an America technical bulletin for an AC clutch, replacement : https://subaru.oemdtc.com/360/new-ac-compressor-clutch-assembly-2014-2016-subaru Just wondering if anyone knows if this applies to UK /Europe cars? My AC is crap, and I'd like to see if this could be the problem before I try and get it recharged again. Thanks.

I've been toying with this idea as well, I took the back box off to see what it sounded like and honestly it made no difference. I've a video on here somewhere. I'm much the same as I came from an SG 2.0XT with an H&S, but with a silenced mid section. I think to get a noticeable change in sound it would need to be from Dpf back. There are a few videos on youtube of folk with exhausts and Dpf deletes, which do sound good, but unfortunately UK dpf regs prevent us doing that. I think hatchback wrx back boxes should fit, but as our exhaust is concealed behind the bumper that could be the issue. Keep me informed if you do decide to go for it!

Yup, I've started doing mine every 6,000 for the same reason, it's the first car I've bought on finance (read 1st not 150k+ miles beater). I do the oil dilution every time. Checking the oil is the most annoying thing, I'd be happy if I could walk out to it cold and dip it. But no, warm car up, stop for 10 mins I think the manual says(?) then dip it. Anyway, battery off and the light and warnings are away, so life is orange again. Happy days. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Just had another oil change experience in my diesel xv that I thought might benefit from documenting. Typical oil change no issues, however having drained the oil and removed the filter I wanted to check the mileage so I can write it on the filter. Anyway, I flicked the key to the accessory position took the reading then removed the key. No drama. Fitted the new filter, filled with oil then started the car. Oil level warning popped up and oil level light stayed on. This is not uncommon, and has happened to me the last few times, but often resolves itself once up to temp and turned on and off a few times. This time however the light refused to go off. I checked the oil level about 4 times out of paranoia. Drove to work and back and a few miles around the house. Light refused to go off. Anyway long story short, if this happens to you, the fix is a battery off reset. Pop the negative lead off and leave off for a while (for safety sake I always put a window down in case the car does something odd and locks itself when you put the battery back on). I did 15 mins. Pop it back on and fingers crossed the light goes out and the warning goes away. It did for me. Hopefully this helps anyone with a diesel if they come across this anomaly in the future.