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Swayze88 last won the day on May 27 2018

Swayze88 had the most liked content!

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About Swayze88

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/06/1988

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  • Location:
    Carnwath, South Lanarkshire
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  • Subaru Model
    Forester 2.0 XT 2005 , XV 2.0 SE 2012 , XV 2.0 SE 2013

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  1. Hey, Just been doing my daily troll through the Subaru and XV Crosstrek pages on Reddit, and came across an interesting link to an America technical bulletin for an AC clutch, replacement : https://subaru.oemdtc.com/360/new-ac-compressor-clutch-assembly-2014-2016-subaru Just wondering if anyone knows if this applies to UK /Europe cars? My AC is crap, and I'd like to see if this could be the problem before I try and get it recharged again. Thanks.
  2. I've been toying with this idea as well, I took the back box off to see what it sounded like and honestly it made no difference. I've a video on here somewhere. I'm much the same as I came from an SG 2.0XT with an H&S, but with a silenced mid section. I think to get a noticeable change in sound it would need to be from Dpf back. There are a few videos on youtube of folk with exhausts and Dpf deletes, which do sound good, but unfortunately UK dpf regs prevent us doing that. I think hatchback wrx back boxes should fit, but as our exhaust is concealed behind the bumper that could be the issue. Keep me informed if you do decide to go for it!
  3. Yup, I've started doing mine every 6,000 for the same reason, it's the first car I've bought on finance (read 1st not 150k+ miles beater). I do the oil dilution every time. Checking the oil is the most annoying thing, I'd be happy if I could walk out to it cold and dip it. But no, warm car up, stop for 10 mins I think the manual says(?) then dip it. Anyway, battery off and the light and warnings are away, so life is orange again. Happy days. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk
  4. Just had another oil change experience in my diesel xv that I thought might benefit from documenting. Typical oil change no issues, however having drained the oil and removed the filter I wanted to check the mileage so I can write it on the filter. Anyway, I flicked the key to the accessory position took the reading then removed the key. No drama. Fitted the new filter, filled with oil then started the car. Oil level warning popped up and oil level light stayed on. This is not uncommon, and has happened to me the last few times, but often resolves itself once up to temp and turned on and off a few times. This time however the light refused to go off. I checked the oil level about 4 times out of paranoia. Drove to work and back and a few miles around the house. Light refused to go off. Anyway long story short, if this happens to you, the fix is a battery off reset. Pop the negative lead off and leave off for a while (for safety sake I always put a window down in case the car does something odd and locks itself when you put the battery back on). I did 15 mins. Pop it back on and fingers crossed the light goes out and the warning goes away. It did for me. Hopefully this helps anyone with a diesel if they come across this anomaly in the future.
  5. Wow, that looks like a lot of brute force went into getting that out! How many miles were on the car for them to look like that?
  6. Good advice for anyone with an air hammer. I had a good go at the ears with a hammer and chisel to try and get it to rotate. But no luck. Maybe time to invest in an air hammer!
  7. So our XV (2012) has just hit 70,000 miles and a couple months ago one of the rear wheel bearings started to go bad. It was just before the Mot and I didn't have time to deal with it so let the Mot garage do the work. To get a subaru part was going to cost ~£180+vat so they ended up fitting an aftermarket part for around £120 + 2 hours labour. Anyway fast forward a couple months and the other side starts to rumble. I managed to get a subaru one from ebay for the price of an aftermarket one, and with some spare time thought I'd have a go myself. Last weekend I watched a few YouTube videos and started taking things apart. All went well until the final removal of the assembly. That thing would not budge! I spent a couple hours trying everything to get it out with no luck. As time was marching on and my wife needed the car the next day I soaked what I could with penetrating spray, cut my losses and put it all back together. Fast forward to today. Having a better understanding of what I was getting myself into I went down to my friends unit so we could use the lift and have a better go at it. To start with we tried the same deal, put the 4 bolts through loosely from the back and hit them with a hammer. No go. Put everything back together loosely and roll car back and forward left and right to try and break the rust. No go. Three prong puller on the drive shaft/axle. I stopped when I thought I was going to wreck the CV joint. In the end we had to release the two non pillow /ball connections to the suspension (of a toltal 4) so we could get enough movement of the hub to pull the axle out. After that, bolt it all together again to hold it firm. We then tried another puller but couldn't get anything solid to pull against. Eventually it came down to getting the biggest socket we could onto the back of the housing and hitting it as hard as we could again and again. Anyway, once it popped out, I cleaned up the rust put a large amount of copper grease on and put the new one in. So in short. If you have some rust on your car, don't trust the YouTube videos, and be prepared to get some use out your big hammer. If it doesn't go easily you might have to go to pound town on it. 💪
  8. As the title suggests, I'm curious to know what the oil change intervals are on the petrol XV, my petrol forester (turbo) was 7,500 miles and the Diesel XV is 12,000 miles, so I would imagine it falls somewhere between the two, but cannot find any info. I think in America they suggest 7,500 but don't know if we will be any different. Maybe someone with a petrol could let me know what the service booklet says.
  9. Hey Dogconker, I've had my XV remapped for about 6,000 miles now, got it done through Quantum tuning. (this is on my 2011 plate) There map is a generic map, so if the car is standard it will probably be OK. I really wanted to get mine done by a professional, like Litchfield motors in Gloucester, but coming from Scotland made it unrealistic. (Litchfield used to offer diesel remapping on their website, but it has since been updated). These guys look to be a little closer to you than to me, so might be worth speaking to them? As for the Quantum map, it was cheap, I think i got it on a deal and it cost somewhere around £250/£300 Its faster, that's for sure, my mpg has increased slightly, i wouldn't say 10% but maybe 5% (now averaging about 47.4mpg) mainly 60-70mph A-roads, with a little bit of town driving. Driving seems a bit more like it should, its a normal diesel now... if that makes sense, you can pull from lower down the rev range, potter around town in 4th etc. I've not had it dyno tested, so I cannot say if the claims of 180bhp are true or not. As for do's and Dont's. I try to be sympathetic to the engine, and not race it before its warmed up, and give it a mile or so being gentle to cool down before shutting down. Also having read every horror story under the sun regarding the early generation diesel crankshaft failures (although I've been told by a Subaru mechanic that they have had zero crankshaft failures in the revised engine), i tend to not give it full throttle until above 2,000 rpm. I've also started to do intermediate oil changes between services ~ 6,000ish miles. probably overkill, but it helps me sleep at night. Let me know if you have any other questions, and I'll see if I can help.
  10. I built myself a rally window hole thing. Always liked how these looked on Foresters , but couldn't see any in Europe to buy and didn't want to spend $$$ to get them from America. These are definitely form over function but could be useful if i were to put a piece of insect mesh between the layers, for camping ventilation if you were sleeping in the car. I was also considering putting in a 12V fan and connecting it to the Auxiliary to get some airflow through the car. This one turned out OK, but there are a few cracks and chips from cutting, and the pressure from the rivets caused one of the holes to generate a crack, so some other fixing might be better. Think i'm going to see if i can get a trace of the shape and get one cut on a laser cutter/etcher so its smoother and neater than my Jigsaw job.
  11. Aberdeen Chris, I've been eyeing this grill bonnet combo for ages now, i just feel like its a shame to have a top TMIC and not have a scoop! If i did buy it i'd be getting it painted orange to match the car though. not a fan of random Carbon panels. Biggest issue stopping me from buying one is that I can only find it from China / Alibaba type stores and that I cant be 100% sure the scoop actually goes through or if its just a gimic with no airpath behind it! If anyone feels like getting one of these maybe we could club together and get a group buy? @Aberdeen Chris if you want to loose a few days of your life looking at diesel mods.... then click the link... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3998684/2010-subaru-impreza/
  12. Reviving an old post, but it might be of interest to any owners going to get the tracking done. Our 2013 XV had bad scrubbing on the outside of the tyres and wore out a new set very quickly. Went to get the tracking done at the Subaru garage and they said nothing was too wrong. I've been putting a bit more pressure in the tyres since and they seem to be ok. As a side note, I'm standing in the garage getting my 2012 done and the Hunter system didn't have the XV listed! Luckily they were able to pull up Subaru USA and find a crosstrek so fingers crossed the settings are the same!