Piggysniffer

Bpv will be getting changed anyway !!

Cheers mate, I've used cans of easy start, carb and brake cleaner, even electrical contact spray and map gas trying to find any leaks lol, I will get on YouTube 🙂 I crushed the bpv (standard item, a bit too old for a vent to air now lol) when my boost first started to go amiss and I had the beginnings of the hesitation issue, I've since Uncrushed it and then crushed it a little again while trying to diagnose my issue, last night tho, even with it being crushed it was still leaking on tickover when I took the return to inlet pipe off and blocked it and ran the bpv to air the tickover was up and down and had some stalling, also sprayed carb cleaner round by the return tube of the bpv at tickover and the revs rose, are the standard ones supposed to leak at tickover as its still only drawing air that's already been metered by the maf when the return pipe is back on as it will be a closed system, turbo was fine when I last checked bout a month ago, no play to speak of, have silicone intercooler pipes all done up tight, inlet to turbo pipe is good too, I've been all round it 100 times lol, cars been driving me nuts for weeks or more 😤 It's making proper boost now so I'm hoping it was an issue with the waste gate not shutting properly for whatever reason,

Getting my head around the way subarus work I'm thinking that everything is set up/mapped for a certain amount of boost at a certain time (boost curve?) and that if the boost is not where it's supposed to be its gonna throw the whole shebang off, it was pulling loads of fuel out all the way through the romraider learning view box trying to meet the right afr with too low boost for the tune, up to -10% pulled at times across the board, maybe even a -12 at one point, last night I had a couple of columns with 0 in, a -1.5 and I think a -6 in the first column, so definately fueling better

Yes mate, even had it outta the tube to clean, tried a different size one also, bigger hole tho so meant even less boost :-/ the fact that my boost was random from drive to drive made me think waste gate, I think there is an issue with the actual bit in the turbo not closing properly tbh as there was a decent amount of pressure on the arm anyway, I will see how it goes but could need a new/recon turbo, or some sort of waste gate fixing, I'm literally crapping crapping it this mornin Incase it's not ok again when I drive it

Loves a wagon I do !! welcome 🖖

Lol GEOFFLEGGY, Absolutely spot on !! Mines nearly brought me to tears

Hi guys, been really at it with the car and doing a bit of loitering over on an unnamed American owners site that is sometimes called nastysock lol, anyway my cars problems have perplexed both clubs on both sides of the pond by the looks but I think I may have some good news, the latest problem was that the secondary air pump had rusted, seized and burned out which seemed to create other running problems, anyway I have replaced the pump with one from a vauxhaul vectra as I refused to pay the rediculous prices being asked for scooby ones second hand, so that's sorted now, the main issue has still been hesitation with running rich, low boost and knock, I have replaced , front o2, knock sensor,throttle body, electronic throttle pedal assembly, maf, map, plugs, air filter, crushed bpv, Uncrushed bpv, crushed bpv again, etc, still low boost randomly between 14.7 and maybe 16psi, done loads more fiddling around to no avail really, a while back I disconnected the waste gate pipe to see if the turbo could make more boost, it did but it took a while to get there ( clue 1) also when driving the car and bringing it on boost it had lost its snap as boost kicked in (clue 2), anyway drove it today after revving it from cold trying to find a boost leak with leak spray, ended up with a low IAM .325, constant knock -2.7 and -3.5 at its worst, low boost, bad hesitation, and weird afr readings, got to thinking bout boost leaks some more, so, changed fuel pump to rule that out, still the same, so took off bpv return pipe.and blocked it off, vented bpv to air, reset ecu, up the road I go -8.5 knock, still low boost (12-14psi), so I'm then thinking that the only thing left is the turbo, I know it can make boost but slowly, so now I'm thinking what about a waste gate problem, makes absolute sense, so I get a pry bar (cheesed off now !) and pry the actuator back a bit to add more preload to the arm ( 😜 I know !) refit bpv and take it up the road, instant power increase, a real bite when boost kicks in and 16.5 psi and no knock, so take it back, give the actuator another tweek, and it's back to 17.99 psi and pulling like a train, so hopefully that was most of the problem, it was running 18.4 psi when I first got it so I presume that's what it was tuned for, gonna give it a few days and report back

Well I've put on new crank sensor, maf sensor, front o2 sensor, known good throttle body, new old stock electronic throttle pedal assembly, and have new knock sensor ordered, tbh at 98k it could do with all those sensors replacing anyway so that's OK by me, I think I would consider leak down and compression tests before I throw anymore parts at it tho, but I will do the knock sensor and some earths and the ecu plugs first, probs should trace the back up power feed and maybe replace it, just find it odd that it resets while driving when it's powered, unless it just actually drops the IAM to .5 and doesn't actually reset on the move 😖😳😁🙄😩😤😭💤

It wasn't me on the dyno mate, got a lazerline 996v3 on it, Spose it could be that ? Does have a receipt for recovery due to alarm fault in the history, will double check that, think it was ages ago, , I'm thinking that I have to be losing back up power to the ecu for it to reset, unless the knock sensor can trigger it, as you can see I'm chasing my tail a bit, just seems to runs so well when it's goin good that it's hard to imagine busted ring lands or anything

It's all a bit confusing, lefts my mates house Thursday afternoon, had the long crank when starting, ecu had reset itself again, got the hump, ragged it outta the drive and up the road thinking its gotta learn boost and fuel trims and timing all over again, to my suprise I was getting 18.4 psi boost instead of the usual 14.7 from reset, and it ran like a champ for about ten miles, as I got near the gym it started messing about, checked the laptop, IAM had dropped to 0 ! With no massive knock events recorded, a -2.5 coming on boost on the fine knock correction, parked it up, came out of gym, reset ecu so it could relearn its IAM, it didn't move from 0 all the way home, about 6 miles, about a mile from home it went into limp mode and was hesitating like crazy, messed around moving knock sensor around to different bolt holes, no better, so reset ecu, wrapped knock sensor in a plastic bag while still connected and shoved it in a gap under the bpv, ordered a new sensor and am driving it sensibly, I have either got an electrical gremlin or some serious engine damage, engine sounds sweet tho, gonna run some extra grounds, remove ecu and clean all connections and fit new sensor and see what happens

Ok guys im gonna have to put this over to another site or take it to a scooby place as I need to sort it

Ok guys, been off for a bit trying to sort out the issues with my car as per other posts, I've been throwing parts at, new maf, new o2, new electronic pedal assembly, second hand low miles throttle body, silicone boost pipes etc etc, I seem to have cured any sorts of vacuum or boost leaks, and the car runs beautifully..... but am still left with a random cutting out feeling, going into boost mostly, I have been data logging with romraider loads and have found that when this happens the ecu is actually resetting itself !! The IAM drops to .5 each time it happens and then goes immediately back up to 1 , also when I park the car up sometimes with all being perfect I will go to start the car and it has reset itself again, it cranks over for a few seconds exactly like a reset does before it starts, and the IAM is at .5 and once again goes immediately up to 1 as soon as its driven, I am now looking at either a bad earth to the ecu or positive, or a bad relay/s ??? ANY IDEAS GUYS ???

Sold... Well, gone to a new home :)

Got the address mail mate, hopefully get it posted Monday at latest

Ok mate, where would you like it sent to

Free to a good home, bought it from eBay on a whim and am never gonna use it, don't know if they are any good or even used any more ? Doubles as a shift light apparently, instructions included, seems a shame to bin

Free to a good home, bought it from eBay on a whim and am never gonna use it, don't know if they are any good or even used any more ? Doubles as a shift light apparently, instructions included, seems a shame to bin

Keep us posted mate

Are these guys at eurospec recommended by anyone, if so they should know what they are doing, only asking as I don't know whose good and who's not, do you have an afr gauge/was it showing lean/rich during misfire, I know running a spark plug gap too big for your desired boost can cause a misfire as the boost can actually stop the spark jumping the gap

Out road testing my hawkeye wagon this afternoon and got blitzed by a White scooby of some description with stig at the wheel lol........ Anybody ??

Is it in the bit that houses the wiper arms etc, usually the drains get blocked with leaves and stuff and the area fills up with water, not sure what scoobs are set up like as I've not really looked at mine, but it's quite common in other makes

I put a cheap eBay short unductiin kit on my 2003 blob wrx, it sounded awesome, I cut a 100mm round hole in the bonnet above it and fitted a little scoop to feed it cold air, looked good, the car had loads more acceleration but would not rev past about 5000rpm, then the filter fell to bits, so I replaced the filter with a foam one, then got a lean cel code, put the original air box back on, car was overall much happier, but I really missed the induction noise, it is properly addictive, get a goodun and get it mapped, you won't be disappointed

How much is a remap by said expert ?

Oh no... Don't jinx me lol

:) it's trying my patience that's for sure, changed the oil and filter today, started it up, drove up the road, it started buckin and messing around again, had a look online and read that the knock sensor doesn't like the engine being started after an oil change due to the drier nature of the internals and can pull some timing due to extra noise, sure enough, put pc on it, it's pulled some timing, these cars really are too complicated for their own good..... Never had all this grief with my old cosworths, bung a pod filter on and a full exhaust, maybe a chip, wind the waste gate up a bit and wire a "hang on" button to the Amal valve and your off lol