Piggysniffer

Ok guys, been off for a bit trying to sort out the issues with my car as per other posts, I've been throwing parts at, new maf, new o2, new electronic pedal assembly, second hand low miles throttle body, silicone boost pipes etc etc, I seem to have cured any sorts of vacuum or boost leaks, and the car runs beautifully..... but am still left with a random cutting out feeling, going into boost mostly, I have been data logging with romraider loads and have found that when this happens the ecu is actually resetting itself !! The IAM drops to .5 each time it happens and then goes immediately back up to 1 , also when I park the car up sometimes with all being perfect I will go to start the car and it has reset itself again, it cranks over for a few seconds exactly like a reset does before it starts, and the IAM is at .5 and once again goes immediately up to 1 as soon as its driven, I am now looking at either a bad earth to the ecu or positive, or a bad relay/s ??? ANY IDEAS GUYS ???

Sold... Well, gone to a new home :)

Got the address mail mate, hopefully get it posted Monday at latest

Ok mate, where would you like it sent to

Free to a good home, bought it from eBay on a whim and am never gonna use it, don't know if they are any good or even used any more ? Doubles as a shift light apparently, instructions included, seems a shame to bin

Free to a good home, bought it from eBay on a whim and am never gonna use it, don't know if they are any good or even used any more ? Doubles as a shift light apparently, instructions included, seems a shame to bin

Keep us posted mate

Are these guys at eurospec recommended by anyone, if so they should know what they are doing, only asking as I don't know whose good and who's not, do you have an afr gauge/was it showing lean/rich during misfire, I know running a spark plug gap too big for your desired boost can cause a misfire as the boost can actually stop the spark jumping the gap

Is it in the bit that houses the wiper arms etc, usually the drains get blocked with leaves and stuff and the area fills up with water, not sure what scoobs are set up like as I've not really looked at mine, but it's quite common in other makes

I put a cheap eBay short unductiin kit on my 2003 blob wrx, it sounded awesome, I cut a 100mm round hole in the bonnet above it and fitted a little scoop to feed it cold air, looked good, the car had loads more acceleration but would not rev past about 5000rpm, then the filter fell to bits, so I replaced the filter with a foam one, then got a lean cel code, put the original air box back on, car was overall much happier, but I really missed the induction noise, it is properly addictive, get a goodun and get it mapped, you won't be disappointed

How much is a remap by said expert ?

Oh no... Don't jinx me lol

:) it's trying my patience that's for sure, changed the oil and filter today, started it up, drove up the road, it started buckin and messing around again, had a look online and read that the knock sensor doesn't like the engine being started after an oil change due to the drier nature of the internals and can pull some timing due to extra noise, sure enough, put pc on it, it's pulled some timing, these cars really are too complicated for their own good..... Never had all this grief with my old cosworths, bung a pod filter on and a full exhaust, maybe a chip, wind the waste gate up a bit and wire a "hang on" button to the Amal valve and your off lol

No idea I'm afraid :( welcome :)

Welcome aboard Same as my first scoob, luvs a wagon me !

Yes mate just unbolts, the rad and fans are bracketed onto the very front integral chassis crossmember, the anti roll bar should be bolted to the big black removable crossmember that holds the engine and that houses the steering rack and has the bottom control arms bolted to it, that's the sort of thing (pink thing) I was on about, but if you look long and hard there are all manor of extra bits/bigger ones if I remember

I had a little freak out when my car was doing the fan thing until I found out the ac was on

Hello mate, I had a 2003 blob wrx wagon and mine was really scabby too, I read up on it a lot and found lots of conflicting views saying it makes no difference to the drive, it makes it worse, it makes it better, so I took mine off and drove around for a couple of days without it and I didn't like it at all, in my personal opinion ( as others have stated that theirs felt better) it made the front feel a bit vague and very mildly floppy and lost a bit of road holding if that makes any sense, now it may just be the fact that I knew it was off and it played on my mind, but I don't think that was it, it's quite a big chunk of metal to lose and maybe beneficial in the case of an accident (God forbid) but I for one would rather it be there and I'm also a stickler for the plastic undertray to keep all the crap off my engine, upshot was I went straight down my local scrapyard and got another c frame and sprayed it internally and externally with wax oil, I think you can also buy aluminium tube crisscross type braces to replace it, give it a razz around with it off and see what you think maybe

Can anyone shed any light on this please, reset ecu, took car out for spirited drive and got these figures

Afternoon all, thanks for the replies :), well been fiddling/spannering like mad, could take the intercooler off in my sleep now I think, have had the pcv valve off from the back of the manifold and cleaned it, Uncrushed the bpv (standard unit) with a view to getting another, and have fitted a simoto panel filter, and filled up with a new tank of v power, as of the last two days the car is running like a dream, the oil consumption is down, and the knock correction readings are at a constant zero across the board, so hopefully it may be ok, I think mostly it was the bpv as I had crushed it due to loosing some boost psi and then in my wisdom had crushed it again, and it seems the boost was lost due to a combination of bad throttle body and ecu pulling boost ??? Or maybe oil blow by through pcv ?? The mind can truly boggle ! So it's looking good .... But :) I now have the eml on telling me the secondary air system is at fault lol lol, I'm sure it was valve stuck closed, anyway, just had to laugh really, the car is absolutely mint from top to bottom inside and out with every bill, service and stamp etc so it's really worth keeping, I suppose being at 97.5k things are gonna be wearing out also I have been trying to set up romraider on my laptop so I can check the IAM but I am lost as to how to load ecu defs etc, think I'm gonna have to find someone pc savvy to do it

Well I think I'm gonna bore you lot to tears with this bl@@dy car, so I'm gonna suffer in silence and either sort it or sell it, will pop on and inform if I find the problem adios amigos

Ok, replaced throttle body as per my other thread title on my hawk, car was immediately much better, drove it about a bit no knocking and better afr learning/correction etc, reset ecu last night, drove car today for 14 miles to gym then my mates unit so it was parked for 90 mins at gym and got back in it, and it didn't miss a beat, drove up the unit, parked it up for 4 or 5 hours, got in it, drove it for about 5 miles fine ( all the time freessm running) booted it across a roundabout and it started playing up, -2.8% knock correction, rising afr correction and hesitation and feeling switchy on the throttle, drove down 2 miles of dual carriageway giving it a little boost and by the time I pull off I have an afr correction of +25 and -5% knock correction maximum and a constant knock correction of 1.8%. Limped it home as its running awful with hesitation and its ticking over awful, any attempt to raise the revs and it hits -5% knock correction, spray loads of wd40 and map gas around looking for leaks, can't find any anywhere, take bpv off and blow through it to see if it's leaking, seems fine ( it's been crushed as it was leaking before) I think I may have pushed the plunger in can't remember, anyway, put it back on, Start car and reset with freessm, which I assume resets ecu ? And it starts and runs fine, drive down the road like nothing ever happened, give it a boot full and get a little roughness back and a one time -1.5% knock correction and nothing more, afr learning and correction ok again as well, tbh I'm at my wits end with it, any possibility the crushed bpv is acting up. Sticking open a bit maybe.

Have taken that advice mate, just popped the battery off for the night, given the brake pedal a few stomps, will do the uncle scotty (I think that's what he's called) reset in the morn when it's cold and see if it all stays Rosie

Fitted it this afternoon, took it for a run, immediately better, little more roughness on #4 but no knock correction, boost is up a few psi and so is power and driveability, afr learning and correction have changed, still got to work out what's good or bad, and it's probably best to reset the ecu as its learned some orrible stuff, but also maybe not reset it and see what it learns ? Hmmm, anyway upshot is its running massively better already, without a reset or any learning, and my start of boost stumble and any other hesitation also seems to have gone so as long as it carries on this way looks like the throttle body or the electrics on it were on the way out, see what tomorrow brings with a longer drive...... bottom pic is latest