Scooby Pete

welcome to the mad house :)

The Trike is Mental, should put that into production I'd buy one :)

There not Morette the bowls for the lights are too small. They were a cheaper copy, prob harder to find than originals lol. You can buy the real things here http://moretteshop.dyndns.biz/index.php?cPath=49_147

If you have all the top mounts bits great its easy, but if you don't you'll need quite a few bits. Brackets, top mount, y pipe, dump valve adapter or recirc + piping. Then theres the cut out in the bumper and holes in that allowed the fmic pipes through. Maybe it's just me? Seems a lot of hassle to return to stock, when if you don't like the car that much, sell it and get one more to your liking. But then I can't be arsed with all the crawling around under the car these days. Which is why mines stock :D

Welcome, might be worth giving http://www.keithmichaels.co.uk/ a go I've used them for nearly 12 years.

Yeah nothing to add really gambits covered most of it. Good luck with the search, there's plenty of modded ones running more BHP out there, just check the club forums like scoobynet, SDIC etc.

I had this with my fogs on the classic, one side worked the other didn't, turned out it was the connector from the car was corroded. I doused it in vinegar left it fora a bit then washed it out with wd40. "Bingo" I know Sounds odd but it worked a treat.

Lot of car for the money, good luck with sale can tell you've given it a lot of TLC.

She'd of the week thread needed I think :) Found this one

Welcome to the club :) good luck with the project build.

If you did that may need a remap aswell as all the standard bits, still if you sold all the bits you'd make a decent profit, however swapping out the FMIC for a top mount is a lot work and a lot of bits. I wouldn't bother tbh, just swap the back box 1st get a remap and see how it goes before stripping the rest. I ran a full decat and big bore exhaust, on my 95 WRX, I swapped the back box for a Prodrive ppp back box and it was fine like that, a lot quiter and more sociable both inside and outside of the car :)

Here is a pic of the instal. I turned the black thingy 90 deg as it wouldn't fit with it straight on.

I'm guessing that the black filter thingy is actually a directional valve or something and I must have plumed in to the input side or something.

Sorted :) it have connected it at the blue arrow coming from the manifold into the filter thingy. It's now reads negative pressure and boost. Interestingly the i drive gives .5bar, S is 1bar and S# is 1.4bar. Don't know what I did wrong the 1st time except it was on the right hand connector of the filter before the manifold, and this must have been the problem. Cheers for the advice.

The electrics are wired into the loom at the radio using the ic connector. There's only +,- illumination and ignition. The gauge works ok in i mode connected at the red arrow, however it peaked at 1bar then only registered .5 after that. In s and s# the gauge stayed at 0 under boost then when you came off the gas it flicked up to 1 bar. Blue which has been suggested didn't give any readings at all. Yellow was showing a negative value and the needle moved down under boost. Haven't tried the green yet, not enough hose to hand. I am going to try the blue again as it seems most people say this is the correct place.

Seems a bit weird to make a boost gauge different to everyone else's.

Polarity is fine as it did work from the start and seemed fine if I was in i drive, when ever I went to S or S# the needle would stay at zero untill you came off boost then it would flick up to the value. hopefully the green arrow will solve all probs.

Deff not pinched, the Vacuum hose goes to a sender unit in the engine bay and electical wires go through bulk head.

yeah it electrical. another forum are all saying plumb in to the green arrow.

Hi All, I fitted the boost gauge a while ago and am having some issues :( I 1st connect the boost gauge vacuum hose to the pipe with the red arrow ( comes from the rear top of the manifold) This worked and was giving 1 bar boost. However I noticed that when the car was under boost the needle would read 0 bar and the needle would only indicate a value as you came off boost. So the needle flickered up and down and you go on and off Boost. Hope that makes sense. Wasn't happy with that and it was suggested connecting at the location with the Blue arrow. I fitted it between the manifold and the black plastic thingy and the gauge didn’t give a value at all??? So I moved it to the Yellow arrow and this gave me a negative value and the boost gauge was reading as a minus figure. I have now removed the boost gauge plumbing and am thinking of fitting it at the green arrow Recirc Valve, but don't have enough vacuum hose to do this at the mo. Where should I be fitting it? all 3 points I have used so far have all given me issues :(

I’ve always used Keith Michaels, always been a competitive quote. I'm paying about £550 with full no claims for a west London address.

Yeah there was an Evo, skyline, and a Nissan drift car thingy. Still lots of nice scooby and a really nice legacy with a flat 6' flappy paddel 6speed full leather, 2 fridges!! it was a really nice car a higher spec than s class mercs and most Lexus, he uses it as a taxi!!

Here's a few pics of TFS racing monster 600+ bhp drag car.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x34/Krade_2007/null_zps0bd2b1c3.jpg

Stinkeye, you cheeky git, I've heard Shark Eye was being used but I don't think anyone really bothers with the 2008 on.