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salsa-king

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Posts posted by salsa-king

  1. watching the vid again... you're in the left hand side lane... passed one (the 1st) turn off... 2nd turn off you're starting to pass and then they hit you?

     

    which exit were you wanting to come off at.. how many exits are on that island?

     

    surely if they were wanting the 2nd exit, they should have been in the same lane as you?

     

    as you were following the arrows on the road.

     

     

    case closed mi lord

  2. anyone else running a duel  camera dash cam?

     

    if so what you go and how good is it?

     

    getting a bit frustrated with mine.... the other day it re set its date to 2013 and then when i went to menu to alter it everything was in japanese lol

     

    I've sorted it but wonder if a bit more expensive cam would be better.. i only paid £44

  3.  

    Now, mark 15mm from the ends and and drill your 5mm hole, allowing room for the fastener to fit nicely against the trim. You can offer up the fastener stud to see where is best to centre your drill bit.20150809_214827_zpswx5fd8k3.jpg

     

    with the rest of the Fasteners evenly space the around the SKIRT to help it keep in place, where the shape of the SKIRT started to bend round (where you could cut 'V's into it) I put three fasteners around that arean to keep the SKIRT secure.

     

    20150809_215517_zpstxh2e0tl.jpg

     

    When you've done all the fasteners.. check the SKIRT is firmly down against the Front lip spoiler.

     

    20150809_221102_zpssmzwch4y.jpg

     

    Shame I've previously scrapped the front skirt on stuff :( 20150809_221853_zpsoi7af7op.jpg

     

    20150809_221940_zpsxjdzissl.jpg

     

    20150809_222046_zpswviqtkhw.jpg

     

    20150809_222002_zpsgngeob2z.jpg

     

     

    All I need to do now is get it back on the car... once the A/C is fixed. :)

     

     

    Hope it helps someone fitting their's.
    • Like 1
  4. 2008-14 STi Front Lip SKIRT (that goes on the front lip spoiler) ADDS another 5bhp, so I'm told 

     

    I bought it from Japanparts, cost about £50 + the usual shipping and vat + handling fees etc etc

     

    Tools needed:

    screwdrivers to remove bumper clips

    Drill with 5mm plastic/wood drill bit.

    fine marker pen

    and a sharp Stanley blade to trim the rubber skirt.

    tape measure

    a cloth + meths to clean the surface.

     

     

     

    I removed the front bumper so I could get to it easier plus my car goes in on Wednesday to get an 'O' ring replaced on the a/c 

    So used the opportunity to have the bumper off and fit the front SKIRT.

     

    20150809_160056_zpspkhofkqr.jpg

     

    20150809_164908_zpsxlckhjvl.jpg

     

    20150809_170552_zpspbvdmfv7.jpg

     

    Once off, try and follow the Japanese STi instruction sheet best you can. Clean the surface with meths to remove any dirt etc. Mark off the ends where you will cut it off. Keeping away from the curve of the front lip spoiler as your Skirt tape won't stick to the bend. It works out about 1cm from where you can see the curve edge starting to form.  Use something to do a straight line, I used a straight edge bit of mud guard metal bracket that I had spare, it was small and straight.

     

    20150809_204717_zpsqpylaftd.jpg

     

    don't worry if it doesn't look lined up straight - like mine is. the tickness of the SKIRT won't be effected by this line, your only needing a guide to where to cut it off.

     

    In the instructions (as I did have a Japanese friend who read the warning notices out to me) it says about warning the 3m adhesive tape to help it bond to the surface of the front lip spoiler, so i used a hair dryer warning the tape as I applied it (removing the backing bit by bit as i went along the length of the spolier). Line up the SKIRT to the back edge of the front LIP SPOILER. This keeps you at the right distance from the front of the LIP Spoiler.

    20150809_210902_zpsvku5fevt.jpg

     

    I started one end with the good cut edge, tehn once I got to the other end I cut the excess off with scissors, ready to trim it to size properly. 

    20150809_210849_zpsud0bv5ff.jpg

     

    Now, the instruction say you should cut 'V's in the skirt where you come to bends. I found I didn't have any kinks that needed to have the 'V's cutting into the stick on side. Fingers crossed it hold on. I know the MY11 front lips are slightly more aggressive on teh shape, so you may want to cut the Vs where needed.

     

    Once all on and you've trimmed the end to the correct size, using the line you marked at the beginning (again I used the straight edge of metal to keep it neat.

    Go over the whole lot with the warm hair dryer pressing it firmly as you go.

     

  5. After winning 'Car of the Show' at Curborough the other Sunday I thought I'd try my won products out on the wife's car :norty:

     

    a nice selection of stuff to use smile.png

    20150731_160108_zpsodmhgukb.jpg

     

     

     

    car was filthy, can't remember when I last washed it, let alone clay bar or waxed it.

     

     

    So here goes.

    The usual pre wash with cherry snow foam, hand wash and re rinse with weaker snow foam mix was done as normal.

     

     

    on the alloys I swear by AW's Billburry cleaner.. this is the 5l concentration container, I have a solution mixed up to spray on the alloys, allow to soak in..rinse and wash off (use a brush/sponge to get the kak off.

    20150731_155404_zpsxueemsvg.jpg

    20150731_160431_zpsbbnlmpoa.jpg

     

     

    next up, pre wash over the car with snow foam and then use the clay mitt (from the clay cloth company) 1st pre soak the mitt in warm water. read the instructions. being the mitt it was easy to go over all the car in about 20mins. you could tell the paint work needed it. - (better than a clay bar? I'd so not much in it other than the clay cloths/mitts are so much easier to work with)

    20150731_163631_zpswfa2dogi.jpg

     

    then I washed it all down and used the silicone squeegee then the lovely blue soft towel to dry the car off. smile.png

    20150731_165725_zpsik3ux2dm.jpg

     

    then when dry, run your hand over the paint work after its been clay mitted... so silky (but paint work was dry as no wax on it.

     

     

     

    next the engine bay

    I spray over with traffic film remover (bought from machine mart - 5l of concentrate liquid is about £12 - then dilute and use a plant sprayer)

    agitate it with a detailing brush, a very quick wash with snow foam and rinse off.. very quickly over the engine bay. Allow to fully dry then I sprayed over with the Silicone wax spray I won. Impressive results.. it looks like new again.

    20150731_201945_zps6yxqvaza.jpg

     

    next up a coat of Mad Cow Candy wax, you can apply by hand, but as i didn't want it all over me hands I used a micro fibre pad.

    apply.. leave as long as you like them buff off with micro fibre cloths... finishing off a final buff up with a quick blast of detailing spray as you go, as this removes any last residue from the hand mad wax.

    20150731_202137_zpshtq8dplj.jpg

     

    looks ace now

    20150731_204444_zpsws3owu4b.jpg

     

     

    finished off with tyres... Mad Cow Skimpy Dress... is brilliant.. apply by a sponge.. tyres come up great.. lasts weeks.

    20150731_205852_zpsn2eo9qcg.jpg

     

     

     

    any last bits of plastic trim (like roof spiler or round wing mirrows etc) I used Auto Finesse detail spray.. the one thats none silicone (the one i usually use on my matt black roof wrap)

    20150731_211216_zpsjktlrdhq.jpg

     

     

    one happy wife.. and me too.

     

     

     

     

    job done.

    • Like 1
  6. If it was going to go pop it would have done it by now.. run on Vpower or Momentum is the best option

     

    If you do alter anything like a zort, get it re mapped just to be on the safe side... go to ScoobyClinic and have it properly done.

     

    Non of this on road mapping and piggyback map copies or what ever they call them lol

    • Like 1
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