Gambit Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 On Classic shape only (not Newage) faults can be displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light. If the Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault. In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage. Make sure your ignition is OFF Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated below. When the above are connected you are in diagnostics mode. Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode. In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset). Figure 2 - Check Engine Light Pulse Width The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds). The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed. (See Example Below) --- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE --- 1.3 second pulse (10) 0.2 second pause 1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23) (Code 23 — MAF Sensor) --- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE --- 1.3 second pulse (10) 0.2 second pause 1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23) 1.8 second pause (this means NEW code) 1.3 second pulse (10) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11) 0.2 second pause .2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12) (Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit) How to clear them! Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green. Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release Engine Check lamp turns on Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 10mph. ECU is now re-set. At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs. Stop the car and turn off the engine. Disconnect the black and green connectors. Job complete 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 1 Engine Speed Signal Circuit 11 Crankshaft Position Sensor 12 Starter Signal 13 Camshaft Position Sensor 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX) 18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX) 19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX) 21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 22 Knock Sensor 23 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit 24 Idle Control System Malfunction 24 ISC Valve (Stick) 24 Open/Short in ISC Valve Circuit 26 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 27 ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit 28 Knock Sensor #2 29 Crankshaft Position Sensor 2 31 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit 32 A/F Sensor #1 System 32 A/F Sensor #2 System 32 Oxygen Sensor 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor 35 CPC System 36 Turbine Speed Signal 37 Rear O2 Sensor Circuit / A/F Sensor Circuit Malfunction 38 Torque Control Signal #1 38 Torque Control Signal #2 38 Torque Control Signal System 38 Torque Permission Signal 39 Traction Control System 41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control 42 Idle Switch 43 Accelerator Pedal Switch 44 Turbocharging Pressure Control Signal 45 Pressure Sensor 46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit 47 Fuel Injector 48 Lean Burn System 49 CO Resistor 51 Neutral Position Switch 52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy) 53 Antenna 53 Anti-Quick Operation Mode 53 Communication Error (Time Over) 53 EGI Control Module EEPROM 53 IMM Circuit Failure (Except Antenna Circuit) 53 IMM Control Module EEPROM 53 Key Communication Failure 53 Reference Code Incompatibility 53 Use of Unregistered Key 54 Air Intake System 55 EGR Valve Lift Sensor 56 EGR System 57 Canister Control System 58 Air Control System 61 Air Suction Control Solenoid Valve 62 Exhaust Manifold Valve Negative Pressure Control Solenoid 64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 1 64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 2 65 Differential Pressure Sensor 66 Twin Turbocharger System(H) 66 Twin Turbocharger System(S) 66 Twin Turbocharger System(T) 66 Two Stage Twin Turbocharger System 67 Exhaust Manifold Valve Positive Pressure Control Solenoid 68 Turbocharging Pressure Control Output Signal #2 71 Shift Solenoid Valve 72 Shift Solenoid #2 Circuit 73 Low Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit 74 Brake Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit Malfunction 75 Line Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit 76 Brake Clutch Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit Malfunction 77 Lock-Up Duty Solenoid Circuit 78 Tiptronic Solenoid System 79 Transfer Clutch Duty Solenoid Circuit 81 Torque Up Control Valve 85 Charger System Circuit Malfunction 86 CAN (Communication System) 87 Variable Induction Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction 88 Fuel Pump Circuit Malfunction 89 VVT Systems (L) 89 VVT Systems ® 91 TCS Relief Valve 92 Electrical Generation Control Signal Circuit Malfunction 93 Vehicle Speed Sensor #1 Circuit 94 Lateral G Sensor Signal Circuit Malfunction 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 I'd put these in with the OBD codes but I think your right better posted here :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 i just thought the explanation of how to read and then the decipher of what your reading were better in the same section so people aren't hunting all over the place for em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 No it's fine I agree. If I remember right they was posted at different times, codes being 1st :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweeney Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 thanks for that i have heard that pulling the Battery earth of for 30 min resets the ecu can u tell me if that right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Not sure I seem to hear mixed reviews on that some say it works others have said it didn't but the way described above is the true factory built way to do it. And it really isn't too hard they should be just tucked away. But I would say you can try the Battery if that feels better for you to try :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tlag Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Pulling the earth off the Battery for about 30 mins will reset the ecu. The downside of that is that your radio will probably lose it's memory. I agree with Gambit. Using the green plugs is the factory way, but the Battery way is less hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash96wrx Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 mmmm ok lol.. i will have to give it a go friday now because of work... i will let you know the outcome thanks guys you all been a great help.. :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxweston Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Very useful i have just done this and it gave me a code 22. Done the reset and its giving the all clear now ! Tried the Battery off way didn't work for me :\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 I've heard it not work before with the Battery. I would test your codes again in a day or two see if it comes back after it's been run awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 2014 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Am I listening for the fan for the code or the click of the relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 2014 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 So to clarify a few things.If I plug the 2 black wires together and the check light flashes continuously there is no fault.If the black wires are connect and the fan kicks in and the relays click there is a fault? when I plugged the green and black wires together the relays and the fans started operating .But if I just plugged the black one together the check light just flashed constant with no change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash96wrx Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 The clicking is the boost solenoid and the fan's coming on.. is just a test .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash96wrx Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Plug black to black green to green . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash96wrx Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Sorry for the late reply here goes. The issues I had with my scoobie. The lad I bought it off had put new cambelt on didn't time it so was all out. Oil leak well the oil pump was in bit's more or less. So since I bought the car in April she's had a new sstarter motor cambelt kit with ttensioners water pump and oil pump. Getting clutch done 12 September. And mot .. then after that oil and plugs.. so she is getting there slowly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Glad to hear you're doing the work and getting her back on the road slowly. It amazes me how many people do the belts and bugger them up so hopefully next update will be with smiles :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash96wrx Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Yeah wasn't happy just glad I can drive her just a shame the clutch is slipping. But it's getting done on the 12 September be a nice drive on the way back from Birmingham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 I would have recommended these guys mate they're closer and would have done you a deal with being a member http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/5513-m-d-performance-in-gloucester/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Well with both the green and black connectors connected together the fan kicks in and the relay clicks and my engine light doesn't do anything not even a flash.or am I doing it wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Connect black to black only to read fault codes, then green as well for function test mode & resetting ecu. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Connect black to black only to read fault codes, then green as well for function test mode & resetting ecu. What do you mean by a function test.When I plug green and black wires the fan kicks in but if its just black wires there is no fan starting or clicking of the wires.A little confusing.Im not a sparky lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 if its the black wires that just need going together and the check light flashes constant then I have no fault yet my car hiccups every now and again like a misfire.And ive even changed my pump back to the original pump just to test so im stumped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 2014 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I found the fault in the end.it was a dodgy ht lead on cylinder 1 .new ht leads picked up today 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Super guide here Gambit. Ecu reset works perfectly. Nice having all the codes here too. Makes quick and easy browsing. Cheers Miggs for that! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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