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Daz-RSK last won the day on January 27

Daz-RSK had the most liked content!

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34 Excellent

About Daz-RSK

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location:
    Essex/Suffolk Border
  • Subaru Model
    2014 WRX STi

    There are a number of things that have forced Subaru here. The emissions bit is true and I don't deny it. But it is mere smoke (sorry, a pun there) and also their fear. You read in the press that the death (or dying) of diesel is going to create major issues for the European target of 95g/km across each brand's stable and then no one factors in that hybrids and electric cars are close to zero g/km which lowers the average anyway. So a stock of these sold from the stable would keep the average down. But you don't hear this in the press/ media - it's all doom once diesel has gone or been lowered in volume and how do we meet the target. The thing you don't read is that it is actual sales, not what the units the manufacturer makes to sell. Sounds the same ? But there are some subtle differences. I might build a stupid high emission motor of 600g/km. How it would pass any regulation, I don't know, but stay with me. I might sell one of these per year because these are ridiculously thirsty. To keep things simple for the maths, I sell 15 hybrids that pump 50g/km for the year. So totting up, my total emissions that I have sold is 1350g/km spread across 16 motors sold in the year. So my average is 84g/km and I come in under the 2021 Euro limit. Now the smoke is that you have probably never read that anywhere before (certainly not in the press). It's a bit like their banning of petrol and diesel in 2040. There isn't going to be a ban. It is only new sales that are banned. Unless anyone has seen anything different, if you are running a petrol Scooby of a few years old in 2040, keep running it. Also, plug in hybrids are still permissible and they would still have an engine. See how bits of info get out of control once the media and other forms get hold of it. I mention the fear factor above. Yes, because if people start demanding WRX's in 2021 and Subaru don't sell enough of the vehicles that offset the high g/km of the WRX, then there could be issues. So I recognise the fear factor but I think they have over-reacted. They could limit the sales to this country and then we at least have a fast product here but the average still comes in under the threshold. Maybe they believe they won't have enough vehicles under the 95g/km to offset. Or maybe they have tested enough to see that they can only get just under with the hybrid stuff. I don't know. But I sense there has been a panic, along with the bean counters working out how few units could be sold in the UK / Europe to throw in the towel. £32,000 is quite a bargain price for what you get from the WRX up until September and the weak GBP has not helped. Therefore, there would be a lot of bean counting I am sure. But this does sound a bit too knee-jerk to me. Never mind. We will never know.
  2. STU 2015

    No STI's after the end of 2018 ? They'll be lucky. Probably sold out in the next few weeks. There are 150 last editions and I already know 5 orders on Pistonheads - those who are vocal about what they have ordered. Loads are probably keeping quiet. This is just UK (& Europe) market though - Jap and US still get them and they have committed out til 2021 at least, when the next Gen comes along.

    Right, better just nip down the Rover dealer then for my Rover 25 City. Their 10 years is about up. If they don't cough up any parts, there will be some legal ramifications. In seriousness, there is no law on this. It's a business case, not a legal aspect, as parts & service are after-sales and these provide good profit centres for dealers. With manufacturers changing their models, with different versions (SUVs / MPVs) all diluting the market even further, to hoard parts for any more than 7 years for the 15 different models they produce would be a mean feat.
  4. 2017 Subaru WRX STI Alloys

    People - I have had to duck out of this, therefore, Wes's wheels are still very much for sale. I have 365mm Alcon discs and brake set up on the front of mine and through checking with a mate who has 18's (on a Mazda 6 - but with same stud pattern), along with tape measure, along with guidance from the Subaru dealer, there is no way that 18's will fit on the front of my motor without me embarking on a complete front brake overhaul, back to standard. These are stunning wheels and will go on any Scooby with the 114.3 PCD. I reckon they would look blinding not only on the new stuff, but any Scooby with that arrangement! GLWS Wes.
  5. 2017 Subaru WRX STI Alloys

    Hi Wes, Do you still have these or have they gone ? Just to update you if they still are available - my car should be back in 2 weeks. I know where the price is falling out on the build (+ other bits) and I should be able to buy these from you. I can't be exact on the date yet but the guy said 2-3 weeks. A trip to Cumbria would help run the engine in for its first oil change, which is the reason for me holding off until then. Please just let me know. Ta
  6. 2017 STI in the house

    Think the Dunlops are not so good. I have seen on youtube how they feel the RS Focus is quicker because it has superior tyres. I wouldn't have said mine torque steers but it does tramline, I have noticed, certainly under heavy acceleration. If I get in a groove, I do have to give the wheel more of a shove to get across. But then they are running on 245's.
  7. Some great pics there Tomas!
  8. 2017 Subaru WRX STI Alloys

    Hi chap - if no one has bought them within the next 3 weeks, I'll collect them and give you the asking price, if that is OK. Sorry that I can't promise much more than that at this stage. If someone buys these before, then it's my hard luck. But I need to get mine back to 18's, after I bought the car with Subaru 19's on. The 19 rims are too harder ride and also a fortune in tyre cost. So I need to get back on the standard rims. The reason for the delay in buying now is 2 fold - 1) My Legacy is having an engine rebuild in Bradford and with me being in the SE, that lends itself to a trip to Cumbria after collecting the Legacy in Bradford, as I need to place the miles on for the first oil change after build. It would pay me to stay in the north because I'll get the engine builder to do the first change. 2) Whilst I have a fixed quote for the build, these things creep along and if I commit to £400 now and find my Legacy build is also an additional (and unexpected) £400, I'll be in a bit of bother. So I'll know more in a few weeks. But if all goes well my side and you still have these, I'll buy them from you. You have exactly what I need - just unfortunate that I wasn't expecting an engine build simultaneously.
  9. My Manta GT/E was useless in town traffic. But I was pumping 160 from a unit that was 110 standard. So quite aggressive. Also idle'd at about 1200, IIRC. Any lower and it was lumpy. So made for traffic creep issues.
  10. Yes agreed with that. And car manufacturers are getting better all the time with trying to develop the best torque delivery. If you are old enough, you'll remember that the best and cheapest way to get performance out of n/a motors in the 1970/80's was through better carb and sorting the cams or even the head. I don't know whether they still do these - they would for older motors but I expect with the VVT and hydraulic lifters and other bits, it's more difficult today. But this cam modification in motors of the arc was a way of delivering good performance - but not when you are in town traffic because the only mod you'll have is to develop a different style of drive. They were hopeless off the mark and town traffic just became a nuisance. Gearing is another. Gone are the days where you had a 4 speed box and the cheap way of delivering better economy with better top end was to bolt on another gear. Now the gear ratios don't even meet a 1:1 in some motors in any of the gears, effectively there is no straight drive. But the days of old, they used to just bolt another gear on and with poor torque, that gear just became a lazy gear, no acceleration at all.
  11. Yeap - totally agree with all of that. But it is difficult to find who is the best of the best of the mappers. I think we tend to go on experience, if we used them before, or others opinions like on here. It's quite subjective, IMHO. You raised a good point in the last paragraph there. 350bhp out of a non turbo 1.6L. Sounds a bit dodgy, doesn't it. Did anyone see the chart itself - the bhp line vs torque line ? It's probably not something you would remember, as the dyno people were doing it as a joke. What is difficult to manipulate though (and this is why I asked if anyone read the chart just from interest) is to manipulate the flow of the lines. Forget the Y axes of the chart up each side - the lines is what I am more interested in. 350bhp or 300lb/ft is a snapshot at certain rpms. It's how you get to these that shows the performance. Let me display something here. I mentioned my mate Joe before - Joe Smith. He placed his car on the rollers this weekend and got this out of it. Now, my other mate, John Smith, has this chart. Unfortunately, wasted £40 here because there is no indication as to what the chart is showing in values. What I do know is that cars pump out nearly the same bhp, but not so certain about the torque on this bottom one. The bhp would be iro 300 on this lower chart. With no figures above, this is where I start reading the lines. If you notice how high the torque line on this second chart is and how flat it is, from low down. To me, this is quite a fast car off the mark, needs little rpm and runs out of puff. It would be a good 0-60 car but might not have the top end. The 1st chart is spurious given that the 5252rpm pivot point looks to be near the start of the performance. This would indicate to me, given the torque remains stable from this point and the bhp continues to climb significantly that this is more of a racer and needs a lot of rev to get it to go. It probably has a higher top end, for its bhp output, because it pulls like a train in every gear at 5000rpm upward to 7000+. Admittedly, we don't know the numbers on the lower chart, so it could be out of 100bhp / 100lb/ft. But given I know these are Scoobies with similar bhp - and if this was a car you wouldn't know but were explained to what they were, you'd come to the same conclusion, the style of charts display a different type of performance. To me, this is meaningful. But to some others, it is not. I don't really care which one has the greater bhp or torque. The lines provide me the performance given certain rough criteria. If you now want to know what they are - the top one is a B4 Legacy with twin turbos that come on tune at 5000rpm and can see 170mph, but is hampered by the low rpm torque therefore achieves 60 in mid 5's. The bottom one is a modern WRX, extremely quick off the mark but once above a ton, would struggle with the B4. Tops out at 155 ish. I own (and owned) both of these. But I would take anyone's chart and describe what I see in terms of a broad performance - is it a good 0-60, good top end, good over-taker etc. 400bhp is excellent - but not if you have to wring every nut and bolt to get it.
  12. 2015 STI DRL LED's

    Good find. I was only 4 years out with my 2015 guess. So anything that had a generation launch after Feb 2011 would need DRL's as legal requirement.
  13. 2015 STI DRL LED's

    I think you may run into MOT issues on regulation there if you get rid of the DRL's. I believe (although don't quote me since it is a bit of time since I looked at this) they are a legal requirement after a certain date when the whole new generation was launched. So if, say, the 2015 year is the legal requirement marker in time and the car manufacturer is already making model "x", so that they don't have to re-arrange the front end of the motor at great cost, they don't have to install them until the new generation is launched. But any time after 1 Jan 2015 when a new generation is launched, the DRL's have to go in. I can't remember the date so Jan 2015 is made up. But I would just take a look at what you can and can't do with these before you remove them totally, just in case. I could very easily be wrong of course.
  14. I don't know. But wouldn't use him. Too far away!
  15. The thread has sort of wandered off the OP's subject but there is some good stuff about mappers above. I also believe it is personal preference and opinion. In fairness, looking at this totally objectively, how do you score a mapper ? I mean, one with good rep is going to score well. But what is the measure of good rep ? Someone who works on one brand and is always busy ? Someone who tunes the cars and none have issues after "x" amount of time ? Someone who remaps cars exactly to the liking of the owner every time ? Someone who takes a considered approach and doesn't go for the most aggressive output, taking on all aspects ? All of these combined ? More items I haven't mentioned ? It's quite difficult really. Most will follow what they hear from forums and there's nowt wrong with that. But just slinging the mud at this - remapping is not something everyone does frequently. If you use a garage for servicing your car, for example, you probably get a flavour of who is good in the area and who is bad, by experience and ditching garages that didn't work for you. Seeing a remapper every few years isn't going to bring you this wealth of experience. All you know is that you used Joe Smith 50 miles down the road and it worked out for you. But John Smith 100 miles away might be better for what you wanted but because he is unknown and many people encouraged Joe, you won't know about John's work - and probably nor do they. It really is a subjective thing.