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Daz-RSK

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Daz-RSK last won the day on January 27

Daz-RSK had the most liked content!

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34 Excellent

About Daz-RSK

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location:
    Essex/Suffolk Border
  • Subaru Model
    2014 WRX STi
  1. Think the Dunlops are not so good. I have seen on youtube how they feel the RS Focus is quicker because it has superior tyres. I wouldn't have said mine torque steers but it does tramline, I have noticed, certainly under heavy acceleration. If I get in a groove, I do have to give the wheel more of a shove to get across. But then they are running on 245's.
  2. Some great pics there Tomas!
  3. Hi chap - if no one has bought them within the next 3 weeks, I'll collect them and give you the asking price, if that is OK. Sorry that I can't promise much more than that at this stage. If someone buys these before, then it's my hard luck. But I need to get mine back to 18's, after I bought the car with Subaru 19's on. The 19 rims are too harder ride and also a fortune in tyre cost. So I need to get back on the standard rims. The reason for the delay in buying now is 2 fold - 1) My Legacy is having an engine rebuild in Bradford and with me being in the SE, that lends itself to a trip to Cumbria after collecting the Legacy in Bradford, as I need to place the miles on for the first oil change after build. It would pay me to stay in the north because I'll get the engine builder to do the first change. 2) Whilst I have a fixed quote for the build, these things creep along and if I commit to £400 now and find my Legacy build is also an additional (and unexpected) £400, I'll be in a bit of bother. So I'll know more in a few weeks. But if all goes well my side and you still have these, I'll buy them from you. You have exactly what I need - just unfortunate that I wasn't expecting an engine build simultaneously.
  4. My Manta GT/E was useless in town traffic. But I was pumping 160 from a unit that was 110 standard. So quite aggressive. Also idle'd at about 1200, IIRC. Any lower and it was lumpy. So made for traffic creep issues.
  5. Yes agreed with that. And car manufacturers are getting better all the time with trying to develop the best torque delivery. If you are old enough, you'll remember that the best and cheapest way to get performance out of n/a motors in the 1970/80's was through better carb and sorting the cams or even the head. I don't know whether they still do these - they would for older motors but I expect with the VVT and hydraulic lifters and other bits, it's more difficult today. But this cam modification in motors of the arc was a way of delivering good performance - but not when you are in town traffic because the only mod you'll have is to develop a different style of drive. They were hopeless off the mark and town traffic just became a nuisance. Gearing is another. Gone are the days where you had a 4 speed box and the cheap way of delivering better economy with better top end was to bolt on another gear. Now the gear ratios don't even meet a 1:1 in some motors in any of the gears, effectively there is no straight drive. But the days of old, they used to just bolt another gear on and with poor torque, that gear just became a lazy gear, no acceleration at all.
  6. Yeap - totally agree with all of that. But it is difficult to find who is the best of the best of the mappers. I think we tend to go on experience, if we used them before, or others opinions like on here. It's quite subjective, IMHO. You raised a good point in the last paragraph there. 350bhp out of a non turbo 1.6L. Sounds a bit dodgy, doesn't it. Did anyone see the chart itself - the bhp line vs torque line ? It's probably not something you would remember, as the dyno people were doing it as a joke. What is difficult to manipulate though (and this is why I asked if anyone read the chart just from interest) is to manipulate the flow of the lines. Forget the Y axes of the chart up each side - the lines is what I am more interested in. 350bhp or 300lb/ft is a snapshot at certain rpms. It's how you get to these that shows the performance. Let me display something here. I mentioned my mate Joe before - Joe Smith. He placed his car on the rollers this weekend and got this out of it. Now, my other mate, John Smith, has this chart. Unfortunately, wasted £40 here because there is no indication as to what the chart is showing in values. What I do know is that cars pump out nearly the same bhp, but not so certain about the torque on this bottom one. The bhp would be iro 300 on this lower chart. With no figures above, this is where I start reading the lines. If you notice how high the torque line on this second chart is and how flat it is, from low down. To me, this is quite a fast car off the mark, needs little rpm and runs out of puff. It would be a good 0-60 car but might not have the top end. The 1st chart is spurious given that the 5252rpm pivot point looks to be near the start of the performance. This would indicate to me, given the torque remains stable from this point and the bhp continues to climb significantly that this is more of a racer and needs a lot of rev to get it to go. It probably has a higher top end, for its bhp output, because it pulls like a train in every gear at 5000rpm upward to 7000+. Admittedly, we don't know the numbers on the lower chart, so it could be out of 100bhp / 100lb/ft. But given I know these are Scoobies with similar bhp - and if this was a car you wouldn't know but were explained to what they were, you'd come to the same conclusion, the style of charts display a different type of performance. To me, this is meaningful. But to some others, it is not. I don't really care which one has the greater bhp or torque. The lines provide me the performance given certain rough criteria. If you now want to know what they are - the top one is a B4 Legacy with twin turbos that come on tune at 5000rpm and can see 170mph, but is hampered by the low rpm torque therefore achieves 60 in mid 5's. The bottom one is a modern WRX, extremely quick off the mark but once above a ton, would struggle with the B4. Tops out at 155 ish. I own (and owned) both of these. But I would take anyone's chart and describe what I see in terms of a broad performance - is it a good 0-60, good top end, good over-taker etc. 400bhp is excellent - but not if you have to wring every nut and bolt to get it.
  7. Good find. I was only 4 years out with my 2015 guess. So anything that had a generation launch after Feb 2011 would need DRL's as legal requirement.
  8. I think you may run into MOT issues on regulation there if you get rid of the DRL's. I believe (although don't quote me since it is a bit of time since I looked at this) they are a legal requirement after a certain date when the whole new generation was launched. So if, say, the 2015 year is the legal requirement marker in time and the car manufacturer is already making model "x", so that they don't have to re-arrange the front end of the motor at great cost, they don't have to install them until the new generation is launched. But any time after 1 Jan 2015 when a new generation is launched, the DRL's have to go in. I can't remember the date so Jan 2015 is made up. But I would just take a look at what you can and can't do with these before you remove them totally, just in case. I could very easily be wrong of course.
  9. I don't know. But wouldn't use him. Too far away!
  10. The thread has sort of wandered off the OP's subject but there is some good stuff about mappers above. I also believe it is personal preference and opinion. In fairness, looking at this totally objectively, how do you score a mapper ? I mean, one with good rep is going to score well. But what is the measure of good rep ? Someone who works on one brand and is always busy ? Someone who tunes the cars and none have issues after "x" amount of time ? Someone who remaps cars exactly to the liking of the owner every time ? Someone who takes a considered approach and doesn't go for the most aggressive output, taking on all aspects ? All of these combined ? More items I haven't mentioned ? It's quite difficult really. Most will follow what they hear from forums and there's nowt wrong with that. But just slinging the mud at this - remapping is not something everyone does frequently. If you use a garage for servicing your car, for example, you probably get a flavour of who is good in the area and who is bad, by experience and ditching garages that didn't work for you. Seeing a remapper every few years isn't going to bring you this wealth of experience. All you know is that you used Joe Smith 50 miles down the road and it worked out for you. But John Smith 100 miles away might be better for what you wanted but because he is unknown and many people encouraged Joe, you won't know about John's work - and probably nor do they. It really is a subjective thing.
  11. No, I have not tried to do this, I am afraid. So the LED's are too wide for the actual lamp backing housing and you want the full ensemble ? No, also not sure where to get these. Sorry not so helpful. I must admit to not really liking them in the fogs. It looks a bit aftermarket / after thought. I know that this is standard state but they look less "premium" than the ones on the headlights you see. Just my opinion and I am sure many like them where they are currently.
  12. That is true. The small ones are not that economical because of just as you have described.
  13. Looking good chap! the STI badge looks so much better - much more premium. Are you in discussion with Japan ? Just wondered whether they should take on board some of your mods. Edit: Does the front bumper come off with ease. Looks quite a handful, given its size.
  14. I am with you Tidgy. I am advising anyone who is considering diesel to think and think very carefully. I work inside the industry and just have a bad feeling that we are on a cliff edge. There are 2 ways when you are on that edge. You step back and reconsider what you should do with the diesel car you have (or if you don't have one yet, but considering it, "Step away from the diesel car, sir, step away!"). Or you take the plunge, hoping that the ride over the edge is not too bad. The signs are not pointing that way, unfortunately. Even if the Impreza is too much for 250 mile per week (BTW, I do more than double that in a 2014 WRX STi, but just got immune to running costs), consider another petrol. Some of these turbocharged frugal petrols can be a bit of fun, as long as you don't choose the silly 3 cylinder 1.0L / 1.2L set.
  15. Am I too late now to try to convince you to take the advert down ? I'll try my best anyway. So you are going to be embarking on 50 miles per day, 250 per week ? Perfect for a motor like yours because it's not a spring chicken, either in age or mileage. The good thing about that is that not only does it look like you have spent a bob on the car making it yours, but it is now over the worst depreciation period. As an asset, it will now be a slow burn in depreciation and that is a good thing. If you now buy a diesel, there are a few things you need to consider:- If you buy from a trader, the diesel will be overpriced, compared to your Scooby by a good sum. Normally it is a %'s game, so probably 20% over the trade value will be the sticker price and you'll be able to knock the trader about by 5-8% off. So you'll pay 10-12% more for the motor than you'll get back for the Scooby. What I mean here is that unless buying and selling cars is your trade, you are not looking on a margin to keep a business by selling your car. It is what you get for it. But a dealer places a mark up on the motor and that means that they overprice the car as you are buying a car plus a share in that business for overheads. Obviously this is all %'s but if you work that back into money, you can see that you would be able to afford a good few tanks of fuel in the Impreza. OK, so you now are going to ditch the dealer/trader route or it never even figured and you are going down the private car buy route. So how can you guarantee that the private purchase will cover the 12000 miles p/a that you require from it without issue. Would the Impreza be able to take this mileage on OK and is there less risk with that car than a diesel ? Once you have now factored in the cost of buying the diesel (the over priced bit on the trader forecourt) you could work out how long it will take for a 40mpg motor to recuperate that cost over and above a 25mpg motor. Also, you know what Citizen Khan is about to do with diesel in London. I saw a press article the other day that anyone in a diesel today could see 40% of the car's value being wiped off it. Whether that is the case or not, diesel is not a wise move at the moment. As Chris Grayling (Transport Minister) said the other day, think long and hard about what fuel you choose to buy next. So do you need a diesel more than you need the Impreza ? Or if the Impreza does have to go, do you need a diesel anymore than a frugal petrol, which there are now quite a few about ?