Calq98 Posted July 6, 2015 Author Posted July 6, 2015 It has a alcatek ecu.. And from what I have read they can delete the maf with This map setup. I know this probably wouldn't cause lumpy idle but what about the actuator? Am I supposed to be able to Move the arm fairly easy? I guess It would be an idea to try another solenoid first
stants Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 Well that's good result mate, not sure about the actuator although I'm sure I can't move mine that easily I'll check when the cars cool Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
Calq98 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Posted July 12, 2015 I've found out why the car was idling crap.. Fluctuating up and down. I cleaned the idle control Valve and seems to idle fine now..however I've tried another boost solenoid which works.. And that clicks twice when turning ignition on and green plugs connected.. But does not continue clicking. The restrictor pill is in the correct place. I've ran new vac hoses standard setup,bypassed the solenoid.. And still no boost. Actuator is goosed ?
stants Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 Possibly, with the ecu is there any data logging software you can get & be able to 'see' what's going on ? Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
Calq98 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Posted July 12, 2015 no idea.. I'm still not 100 percent those boost solenoids are working correctly.. Why does one click once and the other clicks twice. The amount of Subaru sites I've read and they say the solenoid should continue clicking on diagnostic mode..is there anything else that should work when green plugs connected and turn ignition on? So I can rule out whether the map supports the test mode?
stants Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 All the fans should cycle on and off and you should hear the various realms around the car clicking too Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
Calq98 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Posted July 12, 2015 Yeah non of that happens. Just hear the solenoid click twice and that's about it.. So I'm guessing the green plug self check doesn't work with this ecu.. These cars are more complicated than I thought. Also trying to find a standard actuator is a problem as I can't find one
stants Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 I'm stumped then mate, not got any experience in the ecu that your using, maybe have a look at their site ? Did you say it was a vf series turbo that was on it Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
Calq98 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Posted July 12, 2015 The pic is info on that ecu from their site. Think I'm going to phone them With the ecu number and ask about it so I'm aware about it. I'm guessing it's a vf23 as it ihi written on it. And from what I've read the v3 runs the vf23? Or am I wrong ?
stants Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 I think your right on the turbo, silly thought do you know if it has more than one map ? Could be that there's two, a full boost set up and maybe a fuel saving, low/no boost map as well and it's just on the low map ? Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
Calq98 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Posted July 12, 2015 No idea mate. This is why I need to phone alcatek if I can find out All the details. This Bladdy car is driving me insane. Just aswell I bought this as a project track car.. and for peanuts.
savage bulldogs Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 Try dropping a mapper a email to see if the factory self code check works with a alcertek ecu, as I said before the oe ecu code check might not work with your aftermarket ecu and that might be why it's not running a full diagnostic check (only clicking a few times) although a faulty actuator does seem to cover your symptoms, returning the boost vacuum system or anything else back to standard might not work if the current aftermarket ecus map has been set up with the "as you bought it " pipework . If you do want to try to get it back to standard you might want to fit a standard ecu , if the car hasn't got many mods as this will have a standard map too . As stants said it could possibly even be something as simple as a low boost setting cos you can have loads of added features. .... twin mafles maps ,anti lag, launch control or even maps for different grades of fuel (95 Ron or meth mix) . So I'd suggest to preferably get a mapper to check the codes on the ecu if not fit a standard ecu (if the cars not heavily modded) and second hand actuator with the v3 sti oe vacuum line set up .
Calq98 Posted July 13, 2015 Author Posted July 13, 2015 Yeah I'm going to get ecu codes tonight and contact alcatek.. I'm 100% sure the car doesn't have different maps,a map with low boost because the guy who built the engine 2 years back, I've spoken to him he never mentioned it had something like that and when my mate who I bought it off picked it up the guy who built in( a friend of ours) went with him and then it had no boost.. So basically my mate bought it very cheap and never did anything with it.. Sat in his garage for a year or so and now I've bought it for project..and for the vac lines, the guy who bought it said he put the boost controller In with the vac lines how they are. And it used to be fine, boosted how it should.. I've found a site that does stock actuators so I'm going to order one of those.. And just check about the ecu and see if the self check does work with that ecu. I've had someone mention that they think the wastegate could be stuck open?
stants Posted July 13, 2015 Posted July 13, 2015 Could be the same issue, if actuator dead or springs gone then the w/g could be open worst, case somethings broken off and has lodged the w/g open, I'd pull the turbo and see Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
savage bulldogs Posted July 13, 2015 Posted July 13, 2015 The actuator controls the wast gate which controls the amount of exhaust gasses allowed to pass through the turbo . Otherwise the turbo would keep spinning and creating boost until it went bang . You could try disconnecting the actuator arm from the waste gate lever ,check it's moving freely and cable tie the waste gate shut. It's just to see if it creates any boost at all ,don't drive it to far or run it too long as it's only a crude way of seeing if the actuators fubar before you buy one [emoji6]
Calq98 Posted July 13, 2015 Author Posted July 13, 2015 I know this sounds silly. But should the rod from the actuator to Wastegate arm push outwards ? Because I can push the rod away from actuator. If I disconnect the rod and tie the wastegate like u said. Which way would be closed.. ? I've put the pic so it makes sense. Thanks for ur help again guys.
savage bulldogs Posted July 13, 2015 Posted July 13, 2015 Towards the actuator would be closed (actuator arm pushes to open the waste gate ) Someone's selling a tdo4 on here in the for sale section with pics of the hot side which shows the waste gate from inside so you can see the "flap" and arm Just don't rev it to much or drive it as I wouldn't want you to damage anything by having the waste gate shut without any control over how much boost the turbo's producing [emoji6]
stants Posted July 13, 2015 Posted July 13, 2015 Should help out, side by side one open one closed ☺ Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
Calq98 Posted July 13, 2015 Author Posted July 13, 2015 Gonna sound thick here. Surely if the actuator is buggered the wastegate would stay shut and it should build boost? The pic does make sense tho.. Or would a buggered actuator do something else ?
savage bulldogs Posted July 13, 2015 Posted July 13, 2015 If the actuator had no pressure on the arm to hold it shut the exhaust gasses would probably blow it open 1
Calq98 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Posted July 14, 2015 can I cable tie the actuator arm with it connected to wastegate? And quick try it.
savage bulldogs Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 As long as your sure the arm isn't stuck out and holding it open ,on the tdo series the actuator arm is only held onto the waste gate lever by a single "C" clip anyways
Calq98 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Posted July 14, 2015 pretty sure the actuator arm is in as far as possible. I temporarily tied it with cable ties to try keep the flap shut. And still no boost. I have a stock brand new actuator coming but think it's even that now. Unless like u say the flap isn't shutting completely but certain it is..what next ? Wishful thinking but if both solenoids are buggered or not working on the car.. With the flap tied shut should it still create boost?
savage bulldogs Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 Tbh I've never tried to manually hold the waste gate shut but logic tells me that if it won't make boost with it shut and there's nothing connected to tell the turbo to do anything but flow air the fault should be after the turbo The vacuum system to and from the boost solinoid are not in use when you ran a straight vac line from actuator to turbo and the fault was still there .so I don't think it's those . Now you've held the waste gate shut without using the actuator it doesn't sound like the actuator either. I'm sort of running out of ideas to try and without physically seeing it's never easy . My last few straws would be Faulty turbo not making boost cos it's fubar Air leak after the turbo letting the boosted air escape before it enters the engine This could caused by.... a vac line missing /split that's runs from the inlet manifold venting air Y pipe under the tmic split /leaking Inlet manifold gaskets leaking under pressure. Any luck with the ecu codes ?
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