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New Scooby owner in need of help ***URGENT***


scoobyste
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well... interesting thing has happened,  I bought an MAF 1 week ago from eBay at the price of £40.90 and the number is 22794-AA010 which as we have now verified, it IS the correct part for my Scoob.

well the ebayer I bought it from CARSPARES-DIRECT has ripped me off BIG TIME!!!!!
I fitted it to the car and it ran worse than its original, failing unit :(
They had advertised a warranty of 1 year... I had bought it and within 1 week I tried it and it did not work. I contacted them regarding warranty AND/OR return but they failed to answer me. so I opened a case with eBay and somehow I have lost :angry:
the reason I lost is because the seller said I purchased the wrong part for my car and damaged it by fitting it!!!!!

how can it be the wrong part when we have already established with FOUR Subaru dealerships and Blue Print also that 22794-AA010 IS the correct part... clearly the cheap piece of crap is defective!

eBay have still taken the sellers side which I have appealed against and they still f****d me off!!! :(

So I am now stuck with a faulty NEW mass air flow that is correct for my car, from a seller that wont answer or honour any warranty issues despite clearly saying on the listing.

so please anyone in future ***BEWARE*** of carspares-direct
they will take your money and run!

I hope this post gives enough warning that people will not give them ANY business online and that this thieving company loses a sizeable amount of profit!!!

absolutely disgusting and shame on eBay for taking sides with daylight robbery :angry:

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I'd get the right oe maf in there and see if it runs right to make sure it's definitely faulty (if you're gonna chase a refund)

In all fairness mafs are delicate thin bits of wire a slight knock or oil contamination can fubar em . So their likely to get away without paying out [emoji53]

Hope you get it sorted soon chap

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Hi, thanks for replies... yes I have checked for air leaks but cant find anything! :(

would a leak in the inlet pipe make it run the way it does? throwing up a CEL and hesitate under full throttle?

How did you check for air leaks?

Also the initial cut you felt for a second could be OEM fuel cut

This is common on all Jap cars with extensive breathing miss that experience cooler damp n denser air charge

If it misses continually it could be plug/lead/coil issue

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Steve

http://www.facebook.com/fctuning

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It definitely is not a coil, lead or plug issue simply because of the big change in the way it drives when i change MAFs!

with the MAF's i have tried, the car restricts, splutters and hesitates like i am towing an extremely heavy vehicle!

With its original failing MAF, the car will run awesome for about a mile then start to have 2 or 3 hesitations through the rev range only at full throttle when driving... if it was a coil, lead or plug issue then the problem would be there almost instantly and constantly!!!

The pipes i have carried out visual check, ive pulled and bent them etc and looked for splits, holes, cracking and so on but cant find a thing!

Remember the only thing that shows up and has ever shown up on diagnostics is an MAF fault!!!

I even tried the cars own diagnostic wires and its come back as MAF also!

Please note that there is no Sigma crap alram on the car!!! That gave problems when we bought it back in march and when driving around randomly, it thought the car had been stolen and immobilised itself but would not run again!!!

I checked relays, fuel pump and so on just to diagnose i definitely had a Sigma issue... which it did!

So then i spent 7 hours removing the full system from the scoob! Glad i did actually because considering it was a Subaru fitted system in the UK, someone working fir Subaru had done a bit of wire twisting :-\

I soldered everything up CORRECTLY and ran beautifully......... oh and before anyone says the issue is probably something i did, i have drove over 6000 miles since then with no issues and i did check the wires again to see if i was having a bad connection fault but it is all awesome ;-)

Just a quick question for everyone, there are pipes running absolutely everywhere on this car!!!

Ive checked the pipe that connects to MAF body and there is a small pipe underneath it that then leads to a round plastic cylinder, another 2 pipes from that which them pipes then T piece to here, there and everywhere... should i check all of these pipes too?

Also there is another large part of the intake that goes from the MAF and under the inlet manifold towards the turbo... should i check that?

What about intercooler Y pipe?

Just want to get as much info as poss so i can get a good head start on checking things over :-)

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Those things are all likely places to have some sort of leak... I'd check that plastic intake first. With your description of the "hitting a brick wall" sounds pretty similar to a boost cut- which would be caused by an overboost due to too much air getting in to the system.

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Im only running just short of 1 bar of boost.... certainly not high!!!

Checked everything today... all is well... no leaks :-)

So any other ideas?

Im thinking of doing a continuity check between the wires from MAF to ECU just to rule out that i dont have a broken wire cauding all this... sound like a plan?

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In your pics you have a silver tmic (should be black as standard) have you got any other mods ?

If so has it been mapped?

I think it should be running 0.8 bar on the standard map ,so if the mods are trying to make more boost it might cause boost / fuel cut (as sam said) .

It doesn't really explain the "all of a sudden" fault as it was running fine ,unless you've added a mod or used a lesser octane fuel .

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Hi Savage, yes it has a Silver TMIC but it has always ran fine!!!

I have no info on any mods such as remaps etc in all the paperwork

The exhaust still has the standard system

Would an induction kit be a problem?

Only thing i have done to this is put an induction kit on and a dump valve!

IN FACT I HAVE JUST REMEMBERED WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FIRST CAME ON!!!!!

i was in Scotland this summer with a friend camping, when we drove home it was absolutely p*ssing it down and i had the induction scoop and kit fitted!!!

We drove over 280 miles home none stop in the Scoob at 60mph exactly (36.8mpg ;-) )

The next day i went to my friends house and got down my street and the check engine light flashed on and off! So i immediately pulled over, checked all fluids, electrical connectors etc... all seemed fine.

So i carried on and for around 2 miles the light kept flashing then it went off.

It did this for a few days and with no nasty noises and everything checking out correctly, i just kept my eyes on everything then suddenly it just stopped!!!

After that is when it started playing up hesitating, juddering etc

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ive had something similar, yeah it ended up taking about 2 hours getting the inlet off and had a tiny tiny crack in the plastic inlet tube which when under load swelled and split! 

 

!Removed! annoying ! hope you get it sorted soon

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And how do i do that?

All the 4mm pipes that run everywhere, i did some old skool testing

Phillips screwdriver in 1 end and air line in the other end... everything checked out fine but i am going to replace ALL the 4mm pipes to completely 100% rule them out :-)

The large intake hoses i can only visually check OR as someone suggested on here... CAREFULLY spray some brake cleaner on the hoses and listen for a rise on tickover!

To be fair, i would of thought a split in the large hoses would of been easily diagnosed because you should technically be able to hear it!!!

But i could be wrong

Think i need to get the standard airbox back on, go for another run and see how it behaves... if i feel a slight improvement then the induction kit will maybe have something to do with it, i can then change an MAF and see if it improves again

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That's what we do in house as it's an essential test prior to any tuning. It's part of our Dyno precheck.

We have special tools for this along with compressor and airline to put upto nearly 2bar in the system to check boost properly. Something that's literally impossible to do whilst the engine is stationary and not running

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Steve

http://www.facebook.com/fctuning

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The earlier pre 98 mafs do seem to be a bit hardier than the later ones, so it's not uncommon for the mafs to fail . Especially when fitted with a induction kit which has a coating of oil .

Hence why some people opt to delete the maf when tuning scoobs .

The standard air box coupled with a aftermarket panel filter are good for 350hp+ and are less likely to suck rain water towards the maf . usually the standard air box system only ends up being binned when fitting a fmic (330hp + on a classic tmic) .

Do you not know anyone local with the same model so you can put it back to standard and try a working maf ?

Or get it on a local dyno to see if they can suss it

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2000 Subaru Impreza

UK spec, turbo model

Reg- W661 UAW

Chassis- JF1GC8KD3YG052007

Model- GC8HK8D

Engine- EJ205HW2KD

Transmission- TY754VN1AA

Trim- 830

Color- 792

4 Subaru dealerships have told me that part number- 22794AA010 is the correct MAF for my car according to reg and chassis number.

Blue Print cross references that to part number- ADS77401C

Hope that helps bud :-)

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Dont worry guys... just waiting for my 4mm silicone hose to arrive so i can swap all the pipes over and then refit the standard airbox, give the MAF a slight clean and lets see what happens :-)

Probably not going to arrive until next monday or tuesday... gives me time to do a little more on my CBR900RR Fireblade build ;-)

I will keep you all updated i promise

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