Marcus axtell Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Hi I am New to this site not long Got my second Scooby and it's got this really funny water problem did not no if any one had this happen befor car never runs no more the normal temp which is good normal drive in fine but when I give it a boot full it gets air in it and water comes out the overflow tank the engine is not std full forged metal head gaskets and ihi 22 turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus axtell Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Can any one help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Pete Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I'm no expert but I would say you have a leak somewhere in the cooling System, check you rad hoses and the water pipes that feed the turbo. My classic had a similar problem in that ticking over it would be fine but as soon as you drove it, the temp would shoot up and the system would boil over. This was all down to a tiny split in the top hose that would expand under presure and leak. Hopefully some one more techincal may be able to shed some light on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogma1 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 do u hav a split in the rad itself at the plastic area at the side. I had this but leaked from that area not the over flow tank. the split expanded with temp of car. I would say this was a sign of the head gone or air lock but both I would say easy to tell and bet you checked and I am telling you how to suck eggs. but keep us informed as am very interested in what this is. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Pete Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Doh Forgot about the rad, could be a pin hole in the rad. Not saying Dogma is scaremongering, I heard all the stories of the head gasket going or warped heads, I also spent ages refilling the system trying to cure an airlock, but as I said it was a tiny pinhole leak in the end. Just get the car up to temp and pressure and spend time looking for leaks. I have a head gasket sniffer test I bought and never used, happy to sell it on to someone who needs it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exup1000 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Yeah mate do what Pete said first.but I've done quite a few head gaskets in my younger days and it sounds like it but we all hope it isn't good luck mate and think about things logically. Ps) how do check for creamy oil in the head on the flat fours ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Pete Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Check the cam breather pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exup1000 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Coarse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogma1 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 do u hav an alloy header tank or a grey/black polly one. if so it could be the alloy gasket or the black one is very weak on a whole watch taking pipes off that as I snapped two just tightening them. also have you checked the washer on the lid of the header tank could be getting to temp and just blowing water out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus axtell Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Done Most of them things put a new 1.5 bar top on it the car never over heats no problems with normal drive in its just when you really open her up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 as you are generating more heat / pressure when you put your foot down you could be stretching a split hose or expanding metal enough that a hole is created particularly with mating surfaces - if the rad and all the associated plumbing are sound you will need to investigate the head 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogma1 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2177491 this could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogma1 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 could be the thermostat and crap in the pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2177491 this could help. just been through this and the additional link referenced in the above thread http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/95480-update-overheating-pushing-coolant-change-head-gaskets.html your symptoms match the guys describing stud stretching under load and subsequent head gasket failure - Of the examples given continued spirited / track driving caused warped and cracked heads. The solution given is to tear down the engine replace the studs with ARP / Cosworth items torque up to the correct amount check the heads for warpage and rebuild with new gaskets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 There are also many references to the standard water pump cavitating at high revs as it is overdriven by the belt, first time I had read that (I knew about the oil pumps) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogma1 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 yep I saw that but didn't want to say anything now was letting him work through the could be to the OMG nooooooo's.... :( I also think their talking about high end tracked cars which have a newer 2.5 engine. I put it up just for pointers. so start at the pipes and rad then work to the more expensive things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Pete Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I'd replace ethe thermostat anyway, I had one that looked like it worked ok when testing in the kettle, but wasn't opening fully when in the car. At £30 its one of the cheaper things to eliminate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 yep I saw that but didn't want to say anything now was letting him work through the could be to the OMG nooooooo's.... :( I also think their talking about high end tracked cars which have a newer 2.5 engine. I put it up just for pointers. so start at the pipes and rad then work to the more expensive things. Thats true - they seemed for the most part to be 2.5l engines although the tune and work varied from car to car. I'd replace ethe thermostat anyway, I had one that looked like it worked ok when testing in the kettle, but wasn't opening fully when in the car. At £30 its one of the cheaper things to eliminate. WRT Petes post here, is there a flow around the tubes as if the thermostat is not opening that could cause the water in the rad to boil through heat transfer alone from the engine when you are giving it the berries 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Go for as many of the cheaper bits to replace first, best way to look at it is If the head gaskets are gone or the heads warped are you going to fix it or sell it, if your willing to do gaskets them go for thermostat, sensors, pipes, caps that kinda thing If all that's done and still nothing, get a pressure tester that screws into the spark plug holes, if there's a massive deviation between pots then it's a head issue The heads are know to split round where the plugs go but this will only be visible when removed A tip for getting an airlock out is cut the bottom of a 2 litre bottle, put insulation tape round the threads where the cap goes and make it a snug fit into the expansion tank, run the engine and fill the bottle, wait till fans have kicked in and give it a couple of minutes after that before you remove the bottle, always keep the bottle topped up, once done that should get shut of the air in the aystem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 WRT the compression or leakdown test suggested, that may not show up an issue if it is head lift as the problem will only manifest itself under the heavy driving loads you described A leakdown is preferential to a compression test as it doesn't rely on cranking the engine from the Battery or position of throttle bodies to get pressure up and consistent readings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 True I didn't take the load into consideration, too many things to read and consider with not enough sleep lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus axtell Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Just like to say thanks for all your help Got to bottom of it and it's one of the head's or head gaskets if any one knowns of best place for some good parts or if any one has some good heads there willing to sell be grate. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Pete Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Damm that's a bugger, shame it wasnt just the thremostat or a leaky hose/Rad :( Pretty sure some one wil come along with a suggestion, Maybe contact a local subaru specalist see if they have any heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogma1 Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 i hav heard that a metal gasket is better if you are undertaking this job. i would get job priced as could buy a new car for this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 :( With a classic might be better getting a second hand engine for less money and having it fitted I see there was a guy selling one on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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