greasemonkey Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Hey all hope everyone is well. At the moment im sourcing a spare ej20 engine as a replacment when the times comes to it to replace. As the scooby i have now is on 109k with no service history and was a gamble when i bought it.and she is not 100% The spare engine im getting will be stripped and rebuilt to how i want. I know my way around engines. but still this is my first time doing an ej20 engine and nothing is better than someone having knowledge and skill if you take it to a specialist. But i want to give it a go and see how it plans out. If it ends in tears i only got myself to blame . The reason for this topic is i would like to get some feedback as things to avoid doing and things to look out for and things to do when stripping and rebuilding these motors. I hear these engines are good for 300-350 stock internals ? im not after massive power but i might go down the path of slightly stronger internals. But im not going fully forged. I would be greatfull of any feedback chaps. Some people might say its not broke dont fix it. But I plan on keeping this car for a very long time and having fresh bits are always a bonus. Cheers chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Check out @savagebulldogs build thread, should give you some idea in what's involved, Oem internals will be good for 280-300 without stressing too much, all depends on what kind of budget your playing with 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 They're fairly simple to work on once you get familiar with the boxer layout. I started off by setting a budget and max hp, bearing in mind that the classic drive trains limit is about 350hp .So anything above that will eventually cost another £2k if you have to buy a stronger 6 speed, clutch, brakes ect ... If it's a v4 or earlier any v1 to v4 long engine will fit but the head to inlet manifold stud patterns differ from v5 onwards. I mentioned this as it's much simpler fitting heads that are compatible with your car . Find yourself a good reputable local engineer, preferably with scooby experience. As boxer lumps do suffer from "ovality" and tapering of the bores .which can be missed by some if not checked properly. You might be lucky and get away with a hone instead of a 0.5 mm over bore. I'd only use oe subaru or better gaskets as cheaper ones don't tend to last as well . A full gasket, timing belt set (including rollers and tensioner),crank shells , "stopper " headgaskets and engineer check will set you back about £1k . It's a slippery slope and if you've read my build thread ,you know I'm not lying lol . Best of luck ,keep us updated and the camera handy 👍 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkey Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 Cheers chaps for comments. I have given up doing budgets as i always go over all the time haha. Savage bulldog thanks for the info. Im not after massive power and 300-350 is ample for me. Looking forward to doing it should be a good experiance and learning curve. Still havent got an engine yet so looking for a spare close to me. In the mean time get a shopping list up together. Gaskets,Shells,Rings timing belt kit,Water pump,Oil pump etc etc. Will have check on your build thread aswell in the meantime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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