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Do you have a GOOD tracking Print out? and other questions.


Paul_JJ
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Hi All,

 

I have a forester, but I feel like my car has a lot from Impreza, since I had the tracking done recently with all the new bushes/drop links/track rod ends installed and the car is actually handles worse than before the suspension overhaul... My JDM 1997 Forester wasn't available (of course) and the 1999 Forester data was used as a reference. I wonder if it had to be an impreza STI instead for the reference???

I don't do track days, so all I need is a good tracking the way it used to be done before for the daily driver and a bit of off-road even -)

Also I've noticed that there is some kind of a problem with the steering - even though the car drives straight on the road and doesn't pull left or right, however the steering wheel doesn't centre itself 100% anymore and the actual feel is way harder than it used to be. It's only goes about 85-90% so I have to do the rest by hand... Can anyone advise?

 

Thx a lot!

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It will feel harder as youve just fitted all new bushes and what not. I doubt thats from the tracking. In regards to it being similar to an Impreza, all foresters share many many parts from Impreza's. Sometimes it's easier to source parts by looking as if it's an Impreza. I think it's gonna be a case of getting used to how the car is again.


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OK in terms of handling I could agree, but that's again strange after the overhaul it handles worse? How about the steering wheel not getting back to it's centre position 100% ? Bad steering rack? bad Power Steering pump?

 

I was asking for tracking just to have some kind of reference. And yes ALL the parts I have ordered from my forester are from Impreza...

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If the steering wheel isn't straight then yes, that's tracking not being done properly. They've tracked the wheels straight but failed to align that with the steering wheel.

In what way would you say it handles worse? Stiffer? Jerky?

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I check my tyre pressure every week -) it's always spot on.

I can feel a bit of understeer which wasn't the case before, the rear seems to be very soft (I probably need to replace the antiroll bar, not sure which one I would need though?) The steering is not as responsive as before, a lot stiffer. When I turn the steering wheel it won't come back to the centre line 100% on it's own on slow speeds, if there is a pot hole or uneven surface the car pulls towards the side of the road instead of going straight (it used to be similar before but now it pulls a lot harder). Basically the steering rack? pump? it is sort of not doing its job properly, but all this happened after I had  replaced the bushes, drop links (the whole suspension apart form the shocks/springs), also I replaced the track rod ends (the old ones were OK, but was advised to do that as well), also steering rack ends (1 was slightly bent when I bought the car), http://importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=1872

Then the tracking was done for 99 forester and even checked later on. On the straight road the car does NOT pull to the side the steering wheel is straight, however if there is uneven surface instead of going straight with a slight pull to the side (as it used to be) the car pulls a lot harder to the side.

The mechanic says that the issue has nothing to do with tracking, however I'm trying to understand why this happened  after all the repairs? May be the new track rod ends a lot stiffer, thus putting more pressure on the power steering pump (or steering rack)?

I would also want to see the print out of the other cars, so I could compare to mine and show it to the mechanic if needed!

I have replaced the power steering fluid (thank you Stants for your manual) 4 times now (wanted to flush 100%), after about 3-5 weeks the fluid gets darker, but not black, is that normal?

I could probably make a video of my steering behaviour if needed -)

So at the moment, I have an unknown sensor error 25 code (speed signal) for the gearbox, steering issues, leaking up-pipe and occasional loss of power - so when I have a heavy foot nothing happens or there is a very little acceleration for some time, but this is totally random, just like my error code. So the car might work like a dream for a week or so, then I get an error code which might be for a few days then it will clear itself and the car will drive normal again for some time...

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This might be the problem I have!!!

http://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/292100-steering-wheel-won-t-return-to-center.html

 

Please someone upload the tracking printout for me or just write the text of what should be set for me, as I want to have a reference of the car which handles good.

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0a45ffc8cbb460736d03a0938bd67261.jpg

That is a classic Impreza set up. Since you share so many similarities I thought I'd share it. You could factor in weight difference, tyre size, length and width of the car as all of that makes a difference to a good set up and no two cars are ever the same due to age of components and tyre brand.

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Right, tried another mechanic. Well my camber is left -0.2 , right +0.1 and the worst thing of all is that when the was able to undo the actual camber bolts the wheel wouldn't move even when he lifted the front of the car the wheel just doesn't move to be adjusted... Is there something else has to be done as well, not just the camber bolt for the Subaru??? Or is my car so old and something rusted pretty badly?

The castor is not perfect either 1 wheel has 3.0+ and the other one is 2.4... also the mechanic said that it's not adjustable at all on my car!

Now the funny thing is he didn't change any angles or anything, but after he tried (and failed) to do the camber the steering wheel is spot on now and gets back to place the way it should do... the only issue is that the car pull slightly to the right.... However the TOE is 0.4 on all 4 wheels...

Any advise? or shall try another shop???

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The classics only have camber bolts on the front strutts , the rears are fixed (so I assume that newage are the same)

The fronts should have 1 camber bolt each side at the top . You have to release both bolts and turn the top bolt to adjust the camber .

For the rears I bought elbaich camber bolts (about £30) but you can also use oe subaru front camber bolts in the rear if you prefer.

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Just spoke to a mechanic he said he undo both bolts and even lifted the front of the car and tried to move the wheel by hands, but it didn't move at all, like sort of camber is seized in place...

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ok thank you.

I think I have to replace the shocks and springs aseembly in order for the camber to be adjusted. The shocks are not leaking, but 19 year old and for sure have seen better times. In terms of RELIABLE shocks/springs (not for track use, some off-road as well), what would you recommend?

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Well I'll be charged an hour's labour to move the strut and than full tracking fee on top of that. I figured I'd rather replace the shocks/springs at least at the front at the same time since I would have to pay for the tracking anyway... The shocks are not leaking but not as comfy as they were last year and the springs seem to be ok at the moment.

It seems as a better idea to replace the shocks/springs/top mounts - can anyone advise of the brand/place to buy? The car is NOT for the track use, so I don't need the sport version, but rather tough for off-roading, since I do some off-roading when I have a chance -)

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