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Engine Paint - What am I doing wrong?


Jay762
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Used this stuff on a couple of occasions - follow the instructions on can, clean and key surface, spray in thin layers, touch dry between layers, leave to dry for an hour or two at room temp, cure at 160ºC for 30 - 60 mins

but both times it has wiped off as a powder.

What am I missing / doing wrong?

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What material are you trying to paint? 

 

The jubilee clips I did went !Removed! up when touched. Didn't stick to the surface and lifted off when touched 

got some of their brake caliper paint hope it takes. 

For the two plates on side of the engine/intake manifold I got some extreme high temp stuff from hammerite. Takes 24 hours to harden. 

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the one lot I cured same day - the other lot I left over night before curing - both come out same result. Think I will go back to brush and can - Hammerite work back in the day might even go for some smoothrite - never used that

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I used some brush on ally etch primer and brush on engine paint on my ally block which still looks good after 20 k .

I used blue smooth hammerite on my 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears but I painted over the rears with the red engine paint a couple of years later (To match up with the front brembos).

I degrease (clutch cleaner) ,wire brush the surfaces , brush on some paint thinners and painted them once the thinners evaporated.

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for all the input - I ended up using a paint kit (brush type) did all the prep with brake/clutch cleaner after scrubbing the silver rattle can stuff off.

The only issue was it took multiple coats of the gloss red option I chose to get them looking reasonable as they are a dark cast metal and the paint was slightly translucent. The instructions reckoned x2 coats, I did at least 4 (lost count, easily distracted) they probably needed another two for the best finish.

This is the kit I used was the Foliatec High Temperature Brake Caliper Paint Lacquer Kit £25

 

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