stuartie Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Look what arrived today this is just the start of my winter hoarding getting the motor ready for going to see andy forrest in the spring time. Showed the mrs and got the look that only a woman can give haha even though it was her that bought them as an early xmas prezzie how lucky am i lol 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Nice choice [emoji41] Side feed Phase 2 440's , I got 347hp outta my old ones at standard pressure, admittedly they were at 92% induity though [emoji51] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Cheers savage 👍 i'll be happy with 300hp if i'm honest any more will be a bonus, next on the list are the phase2 to phase1 adapters so i can fit them to my rails was on lateral performance site and they do them for 49squid delivered so will be going for that then i'll be buying new up-pipe and header gaskets as theres a slight leak where the pipe joins to the turbo, then drop the fuel tank to make sure theres a walbro pump in there as the previous owner said there was, just for peace of mind and also full service kit from import car parts all fluids changed including coolant system, diff and gearbox busy and happy days are a coming 😆😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Yeah I normally stock pile a few scooby scraps over winter to kick start the spring modding season too [emoji5] You get into the fuel pump assembly via a oval hatch in the boot . Once the boot hatch is off, you can get to the top of the tank . Then Remove the fuel gauge sender and pump cradle to withdraw the pump from the tank [emoji6] . If your's is a v1 or v2 (4 coil packs on top of the spark plugs ) I'd recommend looking at a newage coil pack conversion to help with higher boost ignition strength. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quit Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Yep I'm a hoarder I got one those ketter sheds to hide stuff in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Get a pump lid gasket, as chances the original will have seen better days, then at least you won't have to pull the thing apart twice Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Sound thanks for the advice savage and stants, i take it icp will do the fuel sender/pump lid gasket? As could get it at the same time as the service kit also i was looking to getting an original air box and putting a panel filter in because i want to take the cone filter off to put it back to how it should be are all classic boxes the same mines is a v1 wrx, i was looking into getting newage coil packs seen some on eBay that already have the pigtail conversions on for £110 does that sound like a reasonable price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Nope ipc can't get them for some reason, I had to order mine from the states was quicker and cheaper than subaru UK Think I paid about 13 quid Inc shipping and took ten days, Subaru UK wanted 28quid and 4-6weeks ! Is yours the oval shaped hatch ? If so I'll dig out the part number Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 I paid £80 for the pigtails and newage coilpacks, then had to cut my classic pigtail plugs off and solder them onto the newage pigtail wires myself . You do need by pass the classic igniter by soldering some wires together , so bear that in mind if you're not too handy with a soldering iron or expect them to be just "plug n play" I didn't have a issue with either of my tank gaskets but you'd probably have to not drive it untill you got a replacement (if your's was fubar) . If you give it a google it would probably come up with a how 2 for removing the fuel pump . But as long as you disconnect the Battery earth and release the fuel pressure carefully you'll be fine. Couple of pics n pointers . Start with a cold engine and a disconnected batery earth , then from under the bonnet release the fuel pressure at the fuel filter. Pic of the bodywork hatch removed taken from the boot The sun glasses were to stop fuel squirting in my eyes and the rags to clean around the tank hatch before opening the hatch to stop any debris dropping in the tank . Here's a pic of the fuel pump and gauge sender assembly removed . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Cheers stants for the offer of the part number i'm not sure what shape the hatch is yet as i havn't had a look but will try over the weekend if the kids stay out the way long enough haha. Savage thanks for the pics your a legend mate, i have googled the conversion and theres some guy who has a step by step guide so will probs follow that as i can do simple wiring although i'm no sparky but i wire in lights and repair broken wires at work most days, i'll solder them and put some heatshrink over them to seal them. I'll half inch some rags from work and some brake cleaner and give it a good clean before removal, is there alot of pressure in the system? I think the best time to do it will be when i'm changing the filters and have got the fuel filter off, again cant thank you enough guys i'll be due you a drink if we see each other at a show next year if i can make it down to one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 No problem fella [emoji106] link I followed is on this page of my build thread with a few pics . The only thing I did different was use 1 earth for each side rather than 1 earth per coilpack , so I could move the earth's so they attached to the inlet higher up away from road grime/moisture. http:// uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/3094-a-few-pics-of-my-project-so-far/?page=8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Yeah thats the same page as i seen when i googled how to convert the coilpacks was actually the first page on the list, once i buy them i may tackle it when i'm on standby and have the work van with all my tools in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 When you replace the pump hatch do not over tighten the bolts, had a member here snapped one off 😂 Think the recommended torque is about 15nm as long as you do them up like you'd do a cylinder head should be fine Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Cool thanks for that wee bit info stants i've got a little torque wrench in my tool box not sure if it goes as low as 15nm though but i'm sure someone will have one don't fancy having to drill out broken bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 If no low range, just nip them up and do a 1/4 turn extra, Here's a pic & pn of gasket if you need one Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Thats exellent cheers bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuartie Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Just a quick update on this been really busy with work so this has been the first chance to get on with the scoob, i've just ordered a load of stuff from icp, service kit, up-pipe gaskets and studs and all other required gaskets to do the job, some heatwrap from opies and a walbro 255 from scoobyworld since the previous owner was talking bulls**t when he said it already had one, just have to get on the phone to lateral performance on monday to order phase adapters since i don't seem to be able to order them online for some reason, i'm going to be a busy boy in the next couple of weeks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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