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Help, Engine Dead, What Parts???


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Hey all,

So ive owned my car for approximately 3 weeks. and the engine has picked up a Shell on the bottom end I suspect. It is knocking like a ****. so unfortunately I have had to park her up. Now I've sourced a new (used) engine and garage to fit it. they are quoting £1100 fitted as ive used them a few times before. now my question is, What do I need to get replaced before this is installed. Ive ordered a Cambelt and Pump Kit for the Car just to be make sure that is good. but is there anything else that I should do as well? The clutch and Fly wheel are not very old on the current motor so should swap across with no issues. I heard people mention Oil Modines, I have no idea what it is and if it needs replacing also.

 

The next part is the car has broken down some 160 miles away so does anyone know of a good transport company that can flatbed her up to me.

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Sorry to hear about you're engine woes especially since you've only had the car 3weeks, i would service the engine before you get it in as the plugs will be easy to change whilst its out coz its a bit of a pain to say the least when the engines in place, can't help with the transporter side unfortunately but if you have AA cover or similar they should be able to get the car back to you, hope you get back on the road soon 👍👍

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I know a few people with flat bed trucks but they're all based in suffolk , where abouts are you ?

+1 for plugs , oil n filter .

Might be worth checking that the drivers side cam cover and half moons are ok . As these are prone to leaking and much eaiser to do with engine out .

Oil modine is the oil cooler that the oil filter connects to , not prone to failures but usually get changed if a engine has failed. To lessen the chance of debris being reintroduced into the oil system after a failed engine has been rebuilt .


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  • 3 weeks later...

Cheers all for your help.

So I've source a Spare engine for a Princely Sum of £800 from a garage I know,
so the parts I am looking at getting are:

Service Kit (All Filters) Millers Semi 10W40 Oil
Intake Gaskets
Exhaust Gaskets
Dayco Timing Belt Kit (With Water Pump/pulley/Tensioner)
Sump Gasket Kit with Bolts
11mm Oil Pump Kit

My plan is to reuse as much as I can. I will bring the spark plugs across from the old engine as I put them in about 3 months ago when my friend owned the car. Im going to strip the sump off and give it all a good clean as the engine has been sat a while. try and spray some hot oil up on to the pistons and down the bore to make sure the rings are free before I try and start her later. the upgraded pump was £10 more and considering I think this is what failed. sod it why not. timing belt kit and water pump as standard.


So on to the Questions really.

Oil
Is the Millers Oil ok?
Is Semi-Synthetic the right type?
is 10W40 the correct Weight/Rating

Timing Belt/Water Pump
Anything I need to look out for or do?

Oil Service
How do I prime this?
any special Steps to do?

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On 02/11/2017 at 6:12 PM, Owenc2088 said:

Cheers all for your help.

So I've source a Spare engine for a Princely Sum of £800 from a garage I know,
so the parts I am looking at getting are:

Service Kit (All Filters) Millers Semi 10W40 Oil
Intake Gaskets
Exhaust Gaskets
Dayco Timing Belt Kit (With Water Pump/pulley/Tensioner)
Sump Gasket Kit with Bolts
11mm Oil Pump Kit

My plan is to reuse as much as I can. I will bring the spark plugs across from the old engine as I put them in about 3 months ago when my friend owned the car. Im going to strip the sump off and give it all a good clean as the engine has been sat a while. try and spray some hot oil up on to the pistons and down the bore to make sure the rings are free before I try and start her later. the upgraded pump was £10 more and considering I think this is what failed. sod it why not. timing belt kit and water pump as standard.


So on to the Questions really.

Oil
Is the Millers Oil ok?
Is Semi-Synthetic the right type?
is 10W40 the correct Weight/Rating

Timing Belt/Water Pump
Anything I need to look out for or do?

Oil Service
How do I prime this?
any special Steps to do?

2

Oil
Is the Millers Oil ok?
Is Semi-Synthetic the right type?
is 10W40 the correct Weight/Rating

some use 5-30 some 10-40 and myself 15-40 or something like that.

try to go for fully synthetic. 

I think the top level oils do a 10-40 fully synth, but like Shell etc only do it in semi. so thats to watch out.

see what other peoples opinions are.

personally im sticking to any old semi synth till all my oil leaks are sorted then moving onto rockoil 10w-40 or Shell 5w-40 fully synth. 

Timing Belt/Water Pump
Anything I need to look out for or do?

water pump, make sure its the genuine type with the impeller u cant really see. apparently i've read and heard they hardly ever go bad. ALWAYS use a genuine seal, and make sure to torque it down in a star pattern and the right torque spec.

If you haven't replaced the whole kit before, you mayaswell do the whole thing now.

if you plan to reuse;

make sure you get the pin back in the tensioner, you can do this by using a c-clamp and slowly turning it over a 5minute period, keeping the tensioner vertical. if you see any oil on the tensioner its best to replace.

also if the pulleys are making a bit of noise, and spinning even a bit losely, replace them. they should be nice a tight; like you know what ;) 

id say, also closely inspect all seals, front crank, rear crank, camshaft seals, rear oil separator seal for any leaks or weeping if there is may aswell change it now.

Oil Service

I prefill the oil filter with engine oil before attaching it, then you can disconnect the cam sensor (near oil filler cap) this will prevent the engine from starting and get some oil pressure built up.

im sure @savage bulldogs can answer all the engine building stuff/priming the oil pump :D

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Lol@kayzarh

Would probably add, turbo outlet to downpipe gasket and a few exhaust studs /nuts . Some coolant too .

Dayco belt kits are fine as is the millers brand of oil , it should be fully synthetic though . Oil grade threads are normally a can of worms but as a rule of thumb ...

Classic 10w 40 and newage 5w 30 fully synthetic.

I've posted a few pics of cam belt installation in the past but im sure a search on here might bring the threads up . Just make sure you get the cams /bottom end in the right position and fit the belt in the right order, releasing the tensioner last . Torque'ing the idlers and tensioner to the correct setting , as if they get overtightened they're prone to snap in the ally block .

As for priming ,Fill the oil filter with oil before fitting then once sump is filled and before 1st start ,pull the crank sensor plug off . This will allow the engine to turn over but not fire up and primes the oil system .

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Thank you all for your advice,

Any pictures would be greatly appreciated. This is my first car engine swap. I've talked it through with a local garage (sehmbi) and feel quite optimistic. I saw a trick a few years ago for swapping out a cam belt without needing the timing tools. I'll try find a video of it somewhere. All you need is a sharp knife and some cable ties. I'm going to do all the prep work out of the car so access isn't going to be an issue. :-)

I could do with the torque figures for the various pulleys, sump bolts, gearbox bell housing bolts and engine mounts. I thought I had a Haynes manual somewhere but I can't find it for the life of me.

She will drive again!IMG_1506204575249.jpg

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So I got as far as having all the ancillaries off bar the AC which I can't get to one of the bolts. The engines seem to be slightly different standards so hoping it all transfers accross ok.

Stuck currently with the lower drivers side but between the gearbox and engine. Can't get access to it. Can't remove the turbo as one of the bolts has rounded also. Going to try and remove turbo down pipe tomorrow to try and get more access for spanners and ratchet..

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Literally getting stuck in with that engine swap , nice work [emoji106]

Make sure you check the coolant refill methods by having a search on here . Its basically dont let the header tank suck dry , but will save you having to bleed the system .

Best of luck , fella

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Literally getting stuck in with that engine swap , nice work [emoji106]

Make sure you check the coolant refill methods by having a search on here . Its basically dont let the header tank suck dry , but will save you having to bleed the system .

Best of luck , fella

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Cheers. Wish I had more time so I could of got in and cleaned/painted bits. Back on it again this weekend to try and finish it. Was told by the garage the engine going in has barely any miles on it and is a Jap spec engine.

Coolant wise the plan was to fill the radiator via the top pipe. Then fill the engine via the top pipe both until the stop bubbling. Fill up the resourvoir and gently massage some pipes to get the coolant through. Again until there is a lack of bubbles.

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So the engine is in. Everything is connected. Has oil fuel and coolant. But won't start. Just turns over.

I've checked to codes and I'm getting P1088 Manufacturer Control.

Looking.it up online it looks like it's common for the TGV sensor to be busy. Investigated that and the sensor is bust. Reading online it should still work if unplugged. Unplugged it and no luck :-( just turns over. Doesn't fire. Desperate to get her to run. My spare/old car is completely knackered now and I'm down to no vehicles. Anyone have any suggestions on what to check?

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Most imobilizers do cut spark or the fuel pump relay . Can you here the fuel pump prime when the ignition is turned on ?

Engine earths , inlet manifold earth , engine loom plugs , cam and crank sensor plugs all making a good connection?

Don't know anything about the tgv's apart from that most delete them and have them mapped out . But maybe try unplugging the tgv's, resetting the ecu (to wipe any codes) and see if that helps

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So I've replaced the cam and crank sensors. Can't get the TGV valve off because there's a turbo in the way. Both unugged throwing up p1086 and p1088 Manufacturer Control Errors.

Looking at these online they both refer to the the TGVs.

Haven't managed to check the spark again yet. No rev counter in last check so I suspect there Is no spark as this is usually either taken from a coil or the crank sensor. Not sure on this car. Could really do with someone who knows what there doing having a look. My local garage can't look at it till after Christmas. And I'm now down to no car after this weekend.

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WE HAVE PROGRESS!!!!! soooo happy. My brother has saved my assed. Turns out the ECU is looking for a crankshaft signal of - - - - ------- - - whereas the one of the new engine goes - - - - - - now I'm sure that would be a significant issue to a rather confused ECU. Good job I still had the cambelt water pump and oil pump waiting to go on :-)

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