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Rear Caliper - Is This OK?


nidgep
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hi

I'm in the process of rebuillding all of the calipers on my car - its a Forester SG9 2.5XT.
I've completed the fronts and just started on the rears,

I hpoing someone can confirm whether the rear caliper in the photos is able to be re-used if cleaned up or  better to just locate a donor caliper and rebuild that instead?

Mainly concerned about the rust on the brake caliper piston seal groove that can hopefully be seen in the photos.

Thanks in advance.

 

rear-caliper-dust-seal-rust.jpg

rear-caliper-01.jpg

rear-caliper-02.jpg

front-caliper-rebuilt.jpg

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The corrosion in the seal groove looks quite bad to me. I've seen industrial brakes (that are similar to automotive brakes) with 100 bar MWP leak with less crud in the seal groove. It may clean up, but I would get a re-con caliper, as there is no guarantee that a donor will be any better.

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Thanks for the reply @SebP10

I'll ty to clean it up as best as I can and then post again.

Reconditioned caliper is not really an option as I've already invested in the new pistons and seals and wanted to rebuild them myself.

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Sorry for the delay in posting new photos.

Seems to have cleaned up ok - tried the dust shield and retaining clip which fit ok now the rust has been removed.

Combination of Evapo-Rust remover -soaked for 36 hours (hence the colour), then refitted the old piston and seal and manualy removed the remainder around the dust seal area.

rear-caliper-after-01.jpg

rear-caliper-after-02.jpg

Edited by nidgep
Added what I used to clean it up...
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That should be good to go .

Is amazing what can clean up and rebuild if want to, we simply can't do it as labour and rebuild parts/materials come out 2 or 3 times the cost of a decent reman caliper .

About most we do these days is piston boot and slide pins.
In some circumstances we still do piston and seal but it generally due to parts availability and completion times or upgrade pistons/seals on good order calipers

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Thanks @Mr B

Your opinion is always welcomed. I understand that it's not practical for a business to spend this much time on a caliper rebuild.

Slightly off topic and I'm guessing you've no doubt already answered this question loads of times.

What is your take on the red rubber grease on the caliper piston seal versus brake fluid when rebuilding?

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red rubber or silicone grease every time .
That how it done at manufacture.
brake fluid pretty corrosive so using that at assembly results in some of it in grooves to outer side of seals/boots and then aiding corrosion.
the grease will help slow corrosion and feed and lubricate seals far better .
Same as copper slip debate on slide pins and pad to calliper contact, that far from a great idea, silicone grease or ceramic grease (plenty available specific for brakes and cheap) do a far far better job, also any grease on pad hardware should be between pad mounting hardware and the caliper not in the track and on the ear of the pad that runs in the hardware groove (grease job is reduce noises and corrosion that would rust jack making pads become tight in clips .
For DIY guys it worth picking up a tub of silicone grease and red rubber grease as last you decades and make your work better and easier .

Again this not just my opinion but what happens at manufacture, is written in service data and trained to technicians at dealership training seminars .

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Thanks again @Mr B

Good to hear from someone with experience and puts my mind at rest. That's what I have done on the few occasions I've rebuilt calipers including these. I invested in a tub Millers Red Rubber and Silicone grease. Use Permatext on the brake hardware, pad back and piston faces. Should last me a lifetime.

On this particular car the caliper guide pins were stiff to say the least with one of the front caliper guide pins seized and causing the pads to wear at an angle and ultimately causing the OSF brake to overheat.

That's what started the rebuild of all 4 calipers. The OSF caliper pistons weren't in the best of condition.

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Not just brakes, good tyres and suspension/steering in good condition too .

Amount of people tight arses on poor shock and steering and worn bushes but don't care it causing more expense in ruining tyre set which important on a awd like subarus and also not bothered about safety, accident or recovery costs .

Unfortunately UK MOT's are **** poor on suspensions especially shock condition, Australia for example has a performance test for shocks which a good idea.
I would like see requirement of shock replacement at set mileage or age .

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