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Error Code P1507


elspiko
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Hi all,

 

So after the occasional engine warning light appearance and disappearance after last night the beast is less a beast, more of a geriatric, asthmatic wreak. 

 

I've got an error code of P1507 which is: Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe). I've had a bit of dig around the net and it appears that the general consensus is that "idle flap" may need cleaning. Would anyone concur with this?

 

If so, it sounds like a relatively easy job, but I haven't got a clue what or where it is. Has anyone got any info which could help me out? Photos or diagrams would be epic

 

Cheers

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P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

I would say a cracked/split air intake myself mate :)

Get a spray bottle and give all the pipes/tubes a spray around while the engine is running. If it is you will hear it nearly stall out. But could be a few thing's but that's my 1st guess :D

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I just went and covered in intake and surround with water and it didn't change the engine note at all. Interestingly its idolling normally again, aside from the engine warning light still being on.

 

Any thoughts? 

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or if not mentioned,you can use break cleaner/carb cleaner,carefull though ,just incase,but if air is detected,as posted,revs will change,but got slow ,so you notice the rev change,if rev change is noted,there is your air leak,just same as water/washing liquid,,also ,if you have compressor ,you can make your own vacum tester,as i did ,with half a bean can,inserted air line,into hole i made in bean can,inserted bean can were tmic goes ,on pipe,and let a little air in at time,and listen,just another option,but guys who comment ,above me,know there stuff... :0)

ive also ,heard of those smoke pelets ,that u can get to detect gas vapour leaks  also,for fires,people use those to find air leaks 

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Hi all,

 

So I've thrown a bit of soapy water on but couldn't see any bubbles anywhere. Unlike this morning, when I started the engine just now it was revving again for 0.5 seconds at a time, every 0.5 seconds for a period of a few seconds before the revs started building up then dropped to about 1200 rpm.

 

If this still sounds like an air leak, I might take a look into Steve's smoke bomb suggestion.

 

I've not cleared the code, is it good practice to do this?

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smoke bomb dosent harm anything,ive not did it myself,but loads have.do it when engine has been warmed up,noty from cold,as will do false readings,but make sure engine dosent suck the smoke pellet into it,when started.or fil up with smoke,and remove.get engine warm first 

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Hi all,

 

So I've thrown a bit of soapy water on but couldn't see any bubbles anywhere. Unlike this morning, when I started the engine just now it was revving again for 0.5 seconds at a time, every 0.5 seconds for a period of a few seconds before the revs started building up then dropped to about 1200 rpm.

 

If this still sounds like an air leak, I might take a look into Steve's smoke bomb suggestion.

 

I've not cleared the code, is it good practice to do this?

Yeah it's always worth clearing the codes to see if they come back but I would say you do have a problem and the code will come back. 

It could be the MAFS but leave that for now as I've found you can buy one and it not sort the problem and then got another one and it stopped the 2nd hand one I bought was faulty :( 

 

Next thing be worth clean is the ICV 

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You're a legend, a gentleman and a scholar Gambit. Doubt I'll be able to do it over the next few days but I'll keep everyone in the loop

 

Rich

I've been called much worse things ;)

No worry's mate hope it works :D

 

And I would just get a Bluetooth ODBII reader and torque pro app to clear the codes :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Unfortunately this hasn't appeared to make any difference, the frustration increased by spending the past few days searching for the correct tools.

I haven't yet cleared the engine code would that be causing the problem to persist?

But failing that, any more ideas would be very welcome

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No I didn't I'll give it a try. Might grab some brake cleaner just to make sure the ICU is as clean as possible. Might produce better results than WD40.

 

Cheers for your help dude, I'm starting to think it might be expensive

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if eroor code,went ,then came back,on the right track ,ide keep on searching about were you did,to make idle well,even though went back to normal,check round all them areas,that go to were you were cleaning,sorry couldnt help any more,i know myself its a pain,when hours/hours of time,money go into trying to find a problem,hope you solve problem,if you do,its one you know a great deal about ,when you fix,which will share the light for other :0)

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I've been there myself but didn't even get an error code to make things worse replaced and cleaned and swapped thing's over about 3 month's and on the 2nd MAFS fixed it. After about £500 spent and lots of time wasted. :angry:

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i know how you feel on that subject,some tiny faults cant be found,liek mine also,in end i sold the car and got newer shape,but i would of loved to have found the fault on my classic ;0(

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  • 3 years later...

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