Jay762 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 its a simple procedure save yourself some money... http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes-classic-shape-only/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Oh ok yeah can rule that out then. And as Jay said easy enough to do on your own :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 When I do this do I just conect the 2 wires together. . Turn the ignition on and count the flashes? Do I have to start up the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Just did the check on my car and no codes came up.. I disconnected the maf and no 23 came up so its working.. any ideas? When its idling I hear a clicking noise like a relay n the revs go to 2k... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny b Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Strange that as I would have thought the misfire would bring up a code! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 I rang up scoobyclinic today and they told me its likely to be the coils and plugs.. can anyone tell me the cheapest place I can find them and which plugs.. many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny b Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Just would have thought if a coil was breaking down surely ιt would read a misfire on that cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 The missfire only happenes after 5k revs when im boosting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I would just change your plugs 1st coils don't come to cheap. least it eliminates one thing for less money. And Scoobyclinc didn't get the best feedback for advice from a few members on here just ask Ash and Nick on here :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tlag Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 With the ignition on, but not the engine, you should get all the lights on the dashboard on. Is 'check engine' amongst them. It has been known for some sellers to remove that bulb, to hide potential problems when selling. Reason I mention this is that I find it very odd that no codes are stored with the problem you have. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Yea mate it does. . I even disconnected the maf sensor and the code came up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 What are the best plugs for me to get?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I'd go for NGK iridium or R's like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-NGK-Spark-Plugs-for-Subaru-Impreza-Turbo-EJ20-1992-2000-BKR7EIX-IRIDIUM-2667-/230752649212?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A1999|Car+Make%3ASubaru|Model%3AImpreza&hash=item35b9edfffc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I've always bought NGK iridium tipped spark plugs not cheap but by far the best imo :) But thinking I might have a change when I swap them soon to Denso just so I can cure my own curiosity.. That never normally ends well though :D Jay got in before me :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Pete Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 A cheaper option is to go for the NGK PFR7B cost around £45-£50 a set rather than £40 each. Gap to .7mm I had a similar issue on my classic and it was the coil packs. The plastic part inside the rubber bit had degraded and crumbled. You can get 2nd hand coils from eBay for around £40 each or £90 a set. Personally I would go to a reputable breaker like Pete at South East Imprezas 07891129485, I've used him in the past and he does a lot of business with my local club members. I would take your coil packs off the plugs and check them for damage, replace any that are and replace the plugs anyway. Well worth the cost and effort to do them all at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Got new plugs and that solved the problem .... Unfortunately couple of hours after the engine blew, no compression in all cylinders. Can someone please tell me what engine I need to get? Dno if it's a wrx or a sti how do I check thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Vin plate code number will give you model and engine type Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Im told one of the previous owners swapes the engines. .. were on the engine will I see a code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 that I dont know - but if you have the codes from the vin plate it will tell you what was in there originally and you could source one of those - however if the person previously has changed the engine you may then be looking for all the other stuff that has been changed to make it work eg loom, ecu etc chances are it was something that would work with the original setup so start with you r vin and model code Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Im really need help with this is driving me nuts lol.. I need a new engine for my car and on the vin plate it sez.. ej20gdw1he .. how do I tell if its deffo this engine I need?? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Heres the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imranlaa Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Thats a version 1 or 2 engine with a phase 1 inlet . any version 1&2 full engine (with the donor inlet attached) will drop straight in. Any v3/4 long engine (block and heads) will fit but you'd have to attach your cars inlet and auxiliaries Cos My 93 to 98 have the same inline stud pattern on the inlets for the inlet manifold. I have got a v1sti closed deck block long engine for sale running a healthy 347 bhp @ 1.2 bar .It's still in the car at the moment so can be heard running/driven if needs be . Clive 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.