Siluro

Nice motor. Mines completely standard bar map (270 bhp) and big brake kit, same colour. I take it yours is a Hawkeye cheaper tax version mines an 07 plate. Sort the brakes out if they are standard as they are rubbish. That was the first mod i did. Godspeed brembo big brake kit to fit standard wheels. Massive improvement no fade anymore or spongy pedal. As yours seems to have bigger wheels i would get some STI brembos and fit them. Think I am goner get the rear windows tinted like yours. More pictures please. It looks lowered to me so not standard, maybe the bigger wheels make it look that way.

You will get all sorts of opinions on this. I always let a warm up for at least a minute before heading off and quite a bit more until I will go above 3000rpm. No oil temp so just sensible guess work for me. I always let the fans run if they are on before switching off or tick over for a while if i have been hooning around to let the turbo cool down. The WRX uses coolant vapour to help with instant switching off but best to help it. See what others say. Modern oils are very good so just dont hoon until she is well warm.

Thanks guys

I was looking into Terraclean before my map. Searching around people said it improved the car but did not last long. I also asked Racedynamix and they said it is not worth the bother. If your failing Emissions it might be worth it otherwise if it ain't broke, dont fix it for me. Talk to terraclean sales and they will tell you that they get best gains from boxers and they run dirty, lol $$$$$$$$$

The manual for the 2 liter also states you have to remove the sprockets. I guess you can get the pump in but is made easier if you remove the sprockets to remove the plastic cover. Thank Bulldogs

Cheers. I will check the manual for the 2 litre see if that's reckons you require removing the sprockets. If it does I guess it must be an error based on your info. It does seem as if there would be room to clear the pump.

Someone here must know or have done it surely?

If you dont have boost gauge you could always get a cheap OBD bluetooth dongle and get a boost reading. Only around 15 quid off Amazon. I guess Mattie wants to know if you have a gauge fitted that is leaking.

Do you have to remove the cam sprockets to remove the water pump on 2007 WRX. The workshop manual states you do but it looks to me if you don't. Thanks

Oil and filter change. Also burped the coolant as the local subaru dealers made a right mess of it. They tried to bleed from radiator on my WRX, all caught on dashcam and I made them pay. This time I parked it on a hill (nose up) and got the last bit of air out (finger crossed). This is the 3rd attempt and hopefully the last. I think parking on the hill has done the trick. No gurgling noises in heater matrix yet (again fingers crossed). Anyone know the best source of the plastic clips for the engine undertray? Missing 2 and one is about to go missing. Thanks

Correctly bleed coolant system from filler tank after certain dealer made a mess of the job. See video on dashcam forum, current last video.

Look forward to seeing your other videos as long as they are wide screen. Using your phone like that will stop you gaining views I am sure. I did subscribe.

And i paid good money for these jokers. Why it takes 2 people to bled a car I don't know. The first time I picked it up I could smell burning oil. I stopped lifted the bonnet and there was smoke coming from behind the turbo. I got them to change the gearbox oil (right level I have checked) and they must of spilt loads around the dipstick to fill and made a half arsed job of cleaning it up. Car stinks of burnt coolant now too. The lady I dealt with emailed me to say it has been passed on to the manager and he will be calling me shortly. That was Friday morning, Still waiting for the call. Their test drive I am not to concerned about but anyone I have shown thinks it is appalling. I may post after I have spoken to them see what you guys think.

I have seen some people suggest undoing the engine mounts and jacking each side of the engine to get better access to the spark plugs. My only concern is that people jack it up on the oil pan. Is this ok? Going to tackle mine soon so any advice welcome. I have read on lots of forums and videos about how to do it, does not look too bad as long as the plugs are not seized. Car is a 2007 WRX. Also do you use copper ease (anti seize) on the plug threads? I have seen conflicting advice on this one. Cheers in advance.

Old thread but found these guys. Might help and looks interesting. http://zada-tech.com/products

Bleeding dealers Paid these guys to change my coolant and the next morning after the 1st time picking it up it bubbled like mad in the heater matrix. They took it back and after picking it up for second time I found steam coming from the bonnet after 10 miles. I presume that the system purged into the overflow tank and pushed some out the top. So still air in the system. Took it back and this is how they bled it. Not at the highest point using the rad cap, so tell me if I am wrong but this will never work, will it? I did it myself today from the FILLER tank near the turbo not the lower rad cap. This tank was completely empty when car was stone cold. I managed to get lots of air out and added just over 1 litre of deionised water so now my new coolant is diluted. This is just one 3 min video from the dashcam. It took them well over an hour to do a bad job including 2 test drives. They even put fresh coolant in the overflow tank which had fluid in it above the min line when i dropped it off.

Thanks Mr B. Yes I agree I need to find a better garage.

Thanks I agree to not jumping the gun and will recheck oil after another few thousand miles. I think the definition of swarf is used incorrectly by myself and this garage. Thinking about there must be some signs of wear in the form of tiny metal filings in any gearbox oil as you describe as paste. Placing a 5 pence size magnet under the paste you can see the metal filings following the magnetic field. Looks like fur. Surely this is fairly normal and not swarf as the garage has described it? I have not been given any more evidence than this rag and their word on the oil smelling burnt.

I guess the picture tells you nothing. It is magnetic though so there is metal in the oil sadly.

I took my 42K mile 2007 Hawkeye WRX for MOT today and it failed on a split gaiter. Small local garage used to be called Alfatech in Northampton. When the took driveshaft out they said they needed to drain the gearbox oil. On doing so they said they found swarf. See picture of said oil. The car does not make any sound and drives as new nearly. Full service history and had a full service 2015 with the gearbox oil being changed then. Only 12K easy miles since then. Anyones thoughts and what would it cost to rebuild the box etc if needed. He pulled £1100 out of his head which included the clutch. Any recommendations welcomed. I am going to take it to Subaru for a second opinion after putting a few miles on her as the oil is now fresh.

As this thread has been resurrected. I know it is a bit pricey but what are peoples thoughts on the Grimspeed Air Oil Separator? This would do a similar job. The feed back into the intake would be cleaner reducing carbon build up and reduce the possibility of detonation (ring failure). The heat from the engine would also get the AOS hot so the moisture stays as vapour back into the intake but the oil should separate and drips back into the engine via oil filler neck. Not for track cars and high boost high BHP cars as they state on their website (catch can). I assume due to oil serge pulling high Gs on track and the much higher ventilation pressures on big boost. Surely can only be a good thing for the mild tuned motors. https://www.grimmspeed.com/air-oil-separator-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/

Brand - Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 Size - 225 45 17 Cost £400, £100 per corner fitted No cons yet. Big improvement over the old Potenza Stock tyres for 2007 WRX. Great wet grip and smoother ride which helps as there is a pothole in northampton every 2 foot it seems. I agree with most of the positive reviews you will find on the web about these tyres. Will have to see about wear rate.

I fitted some godspeed grooved disks and some kevlar pads to my 2007 WRX. I also fitted Godspeed own front Brembo kit (PFC Z-rated pads highly recommend) which is a huge improvement over stock which frankly are just plain dangerous imo. I also had the rear calipers refurbished with new stainless steel pistons. After fitting the grooved disks the rear brakes made a slight hum from high speed which I put down to the grooves. They must generate some noise surely. Over time this hum became louder and louder to a point the whole rear of the car resonated badly. The noise also started to became noticeable from lower speed braking. The car always remained stable and the stopping performance did not seem affected. Eventually I took the rear wheels off and first checked the disks for run-out to see if they had warped. The run-out was tiny and well within Subaru's 0.0027inch tolerance. I then took the pads out and found the unworn top edge of the pad was over hanging outer edge of the disk and assumed this was dragging making the resonating noise. It also makes sense as the lip became deeper with pad wear the noise became worse. I cleaned the edges with a file and put the pads back in. The really loud resonating (buzzing) noise has now gone but I still get a slight humming noise from high speed which I am still putting down to the grooves and possibly the pad combination. Back to the same sound that they made when I first fitted them brand new. Quick and easy to check if your suffering a similar issue. I expect the noise to come back as they wear again at which point i will try a different make of pad. I am hoping that I can find some chamfered from the factory. Anyway I thought I would share in case it helps someone.

I have a black 2007 hawkeye Wrx and the paint is covered in swirls. The cars buffs up well but i know it could be better. Never used a DA polisher before. I believe Scoobys have thin and soft paint which makes it harder to get the final finish compared to hard paint but easier to cut. I don't know if it has been cut down before and there is obviously a limit before you completely remove the clearcoat. If I am going to invest £150 + for the gear but still have no idea, what advice could anyone bring to the table? I will try my mates old van for practice (have not told him yet) but I still don't want to screw that up either. I know it is fairly safe to do unless your a bit stupid with a DA compared to a rotary. Do you guys measure the paint and if so how do you work put the clearcoat thickness? Any advice on kit, pads, products technique please. Thinking about the DA6 or pro version which comes with different throws 8 12 15 and 21 mm. What's best for a total noob? Cheers

Tax is based on emissions. This changed in April 2006 I believe. I have 07 WRX which is £500+ to tax but same car with 06 plate would be £300 around. If you break it down per mile it not much really. Makes me feel better anyway. If you buy a higher milage older car the extra £200 could be eaten up by parts easily as they are potentially more worn I guess. However you look at it road tax hurts especially with the state of the roads these days.