Siluro

I guess the picture tells you nothing. It is magnetic though so there is metal in the oil sadly.

I took my 42K mile 2007 Hawkeye WRX for MOT today and it failed on a split gaiter. Small local garage used to be called Alfatech in Northampton. When the took driveshaft out they said they needed to drain the gearbox oil. On doing so they said they found swarf. See picture of said oil. The car does not make any sound and drives as new nearly. Full service history and had a full service 2015 with the gearbox oil being changed then. Only 12K easy miles since then. Anyones thoughts and what would it cost to rebuild the box etc if needed. He pulled £1100 out of his head which included the clutch. Any recommendations welcomed. I am going to take it to Subaru for a second opinion after putting a few miles on her as the oil is now fresh.

As this thread has been resurrected. I know it is a bit pricey but what are peoples thoughts on the Grimspeed Air Oil Separator? This would do a similar job. The feed back into the intake would be cleaner reducing carbon build up and reduce the possibility of detonation (ring failure). The heat from the engine would also get the AOS hot so the moisture stays as vapour back into the intake but the oil should separate and drips back into the engine via oil filler neck. Not for track cars and high boost high BHP cars as they state on their website (catch can). I assume due to oil serge pulling high Gs on track and the much higher ventilation pressures on big boost. Surely can only be a good thing for the mild tuned motors. https://www.grimmspeed.com/air-oil-separator-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/

Brand - Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 Size - 225 45 17 Cost £400, £100 per corner fitted No cons yet. Big improvement over the old Potenza Stock tyres for 2007 WRX. Great wet grip and smoother ride which helps as there is a pothole in northampton every 2 foot it seems. I agree with most of the positive reviews you will find on the web about these tyres. Will have to see about wear rate.

I fitted some godspeed grooved disks and some kevlar pads to my 2007 WRX. I also fitted Godspeed own front Brembo kit (PFC Z-rated pads highly recommend) which is a huge improvement over stock which frankly are just plain dangerous imo. I also had the rear calipers refurbished with new stainless steel pistons. After fitting the grooved disks the rear brakes made a slight hum from high speed which I put down to the grooves. They must generate some noise surely. Over time this hum became louder and louder to a point the whole rear of the car resonated badly. The noise also started to became noticeable from lower speed braking. The car always remained stable and the stopping performance did not seem affected. Eventually I took the rear wheels off and first checked the disks for run-out to see if they had warped. The run-out was tiny and well within Subaru's 0.0027inch tolerance. I then took the pads out and found the unworn top edge of the pad was over hanging outer edge of the disk and assumed this was dragging making the resonating noise. It also makes sense as the lip became deeper with pad wear the noise became worse. I cleaned the edges with a file and put the pads back in. The really loud resonating (buzzing) noise has now gone but I still get a slight humming noise from high speed which I am still putting down to the grooves and possibly the pad combination. Back to the same sound that they made when I first fitted them brand new. Quick and easy to check if your suffering a similar issue. I expect the noise to come back as they wear again at which point i will try a different make of pad. I am hoping that I can find some chamfered from the factory. Anyway I thought I would share in case it helps someone.

I have a black 2007 hawkeye Wrx and the paint is covered in swirls. The cars buffs up well but i know it could be better. Never used a DA polisher before. I believe Scoobys have thin and soft paint which makes it harder to get the final finish compared to hard paint but easier to cut. I don't know if it has been cut down before and there is obviously a limit before you completely remove the clearcoat. If I am going to invest £150 + for the gear but still have no idea, what advice could anyone bring to the table? I will try my mates old van for practice (have not told him yet) but I still don't want to screw that up either. I know it is fairly safe to do unless your a bit stupid with a DA compared to a rotary. Do you guys measure the paint and if so how do you work put the clearcoat thickness? Any advice on kit, pads, products technique please. Thinking about the DA6 or pro version which comes with different throws 8 12 15 and 21 mm. What's best for a total noob? Cheers

Tax is based on emissions. This changed in April 2006 I believe. I have 07 WRX which is £500+ to tax but same car with 06 plate would be £300 around. If you break it down per mile it not much really. Makes me feel better anyway. If you buy a higher milage older car the extra £200 could be eaten up by parts easily as they are potentially more worn I guess. However you look at it road tax hurts especially with the state of the roads these days.

Spoken to Godspeed and they do not supply the spring washer any more with the kit which I had to remove to fit inside the standard 17inch wheels.

Wash it. Hand polish and wax. Used a clay mitt for first time. You can feel the rough paint with the mitt.

Drivers side--------------passengers side -------------front of car------------------ -------#2-----------------------#1------- -------#4-----------------------#3------- Firing order is 1-3-2-4 ej20

Yes I agree just never noticed it till now. Must of been like it since I bought it. I will check but no big deal.

I was explaining what my Hawkeye does for Ellazak86 even though it is quite old. I did not think there was a problem until you replied. Do you get a dashboard light for the main beam? I will have to check the manual. Cheers

How are PF pads? Interested to know?

2007 Hawkeye WRX. No dash light for lights being on. Only high beam, blue icon right hand top side. Rear fog lights only display icon on dashboard front fogs don't but button lights up. Rear fog light button does not light up. My front fogs light up when button is pressed no delay. Hope that helps

Thanks Kershaw, Sounds like I am doing the right thing. I first uprated the brakes added an air oil separator and last week had her mapped by Duncan @ racedynamix. Car has only done 36k so I should be all right for a while. I hate struggling any car at low RPM, pet hate. I think 2.5 gets treated a bit unfairly as in standard form it is probably ok but how many kids bolt things on and as you say do not get it mapped. Poor motors being over boosted running on oil that has not been changed in 12+K etc... Regular services and fluids and sensible mods with a map will make them last much longer.

Recommendations for scooby specialist in or around Northamptonshire? Willing to get my hands dirty but don't have any where to do it myself other in the busy street outside my house. Cheers

Thinking about what you said about stopping in the wet is bad. That will be your tyres not the brakes, in the end the brakes can only be as good as the tyres will let them be for stopping distances. How do you use the car. Daily driving, track days, thrashing down b roads?

I realise there are many possibilities for issues as with any car, but how many result in complete engine failure like a broken pick up pipe? Replacing this is cheap really for the piece of mind. Just wanted to work out where my money is best spent as my WRX has only 36k and I have just had it mapped. Car is all standard engine wise.

I know he indicated but I was looking at the pedestrian crossing just past the exit. I should have avoided this really. Only cosmetic and I did swear at him. His insurance paid out due to the video. Only bought the dashcam 7 days prior only had the car 3 months too, gutted. First accident in many years. The guy said i came racing down the inside, whatever. Should have seen his face drop when I said it does not matter what you think it is all on dashcam.

Been reading about the failures of the OEM oil pick up pipe. Quite common it seems even on low mileage cars. Anyone had the issue? killer bee seems to be the only updated replacement i can find. Are there other options? £200 for the killer bee is cheap compared to a new motor.

What pads did you get? Did you heat cycle them? Before i did they were disappointing. I agree there initial bite is a bit vague but they are miles better than OEM which are just dangerous. My main issue was the fade. Now there is none or none compared to OEM. I honestly think the ABS ruins the pedal feel plus a different master cylinder may help but that's another whole thread + trail and error. Brake feel is also subjective. Every 80s early 90s car i have driven without ABS feel much nicer. APs will be much better but twice the price? Hope you get what your after. Please let us know.

Ask Scoobyworld.

Glad you sorted it and was simple.

Old topic i know. I have grimspeed aos installed. I like the idea as it is an easy install and uses the heat from the head to evaporate any water from the oil, some catch cans don't have heat added. Others you have to tap off the coolant through it. If you track day your car a lot then I would not recommend the grimspeed but for daily driver yes. I am sure the car feels snappier and just runs nicer. Maybe placebo due to the cost. When you take it off you can see it has separated some oil. Less chance of knock, detonation and lowering your octane.

Hi i am new here too. Good forum.