Miggs

job well done imo mate, praise due indeed theres a forum for tips on what to use and how http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/ and for any products, get in touch with Michael at http://www.thepolishingbooth.com/ tell him i sent you, he does great products at cracking prices and will be more than happy to give advice too

very nice indeed, i'd love a hawk but the wife went ballistic when i turned up with the classic, i went out one night in my V6 golf and came back in the impreza, she thought i was going to be trading down to a more economical car lol nice car in a lovely colour, one day i'll have me a blue scoob

like this

right, the circle on the left you need to keep, the line in between can be thrown as can the box at the back, then the straight pipe need to be connected to the small circle (throttle body), you may need a 120 degree bend for the throttle body to connect to the straight pipe

right, i'm on the laptop now as opposed to phone, i will edit the pic and show you what you need

The box with subaru embossed is the main airbox that holds the filter, the cone filter replaces this so it can either be emptied of the panel filter or binned all together

Yeh, I wasn't having a go was just informing, Yeh you can get rid of the main airbox but I would suggest using a custom bit of piping, get some ally hard pipe a silicone 90 degree bend and a straight bit of silicone pipe, then fit bend to throttle body then connect hard pipe then straight silicone then maf then filter, as long as the filters still in or near the front corner it should be sweet

This is mine, obviously a turbo but same principle

Firstly you don't have a carb is the plenum chamber/throttle body or inlet Secondly, do you mean the resonator box at the bottom of the pic? You can bin that, I don't have one and it's fine without it, try it first before you throw it incase you don't like it, I would take the first box off completely next to the wing, take the filter out of the box under the window as the cone filter will replace that Thirdly, you can if you want just have, filter, bendy pipe, inlet. Basically bin the boxes and just have the pipe with the filter attached straight into the inlet, you will need the maf in there somewhere, place the filter as far from the engine as poss as heat soak will !Removed! the power, if you can find some tumble drier outlet tubing then fit that somewhere under the bumper to get cold air up to the filter

That looks like it's been machine polished, you can get it as shiny but up close you will see swirls, pb do a black hole polish that will hide quite a few of these swirls on a dark/black car when using by hand but you will never get the same result as a machine, if ever you decide to buy one I would suggest a da as there's very little chance of causing damage with one, the kestrel das6 is by far one of the best units to have and a good price too

Make sure you wet bird crap before removing as they tend to be gritty and can scratch paint, also if left on too long bird crap is very acidic and can leave permanent marks on the car, I always car a bottle of quick detailer and a microfiber cloth to remove it as and when I see it

It's a days work, but if you do all the above it wwon't need doing for a good 8k miles, you can just wash, rinse, clay, rinse, polish and wax, that would last you about 5k miles before it needed more than just a wash

Before you use a clay bar, wash and polish a panel on the car, basically do what you would normallyghthen clay it and see the crap that comes off, there's a cling film test too, get a supposedly clean section, lay the cling film over it and run your finger over the film, you will feel lumps and bumps, once clayed do it again, nice and smooth, be aware that claying takes off any polish or wax put on the panel, my method is, rinse, snow foam, rinse, wash, rinse, clay, wash, rinse, dry, polish, wax, seal

My wife did 3 years of college after leaving school to get b tec national diploma so she could go in the raf, that's what they said she needed, after doing this and applying they then told her she needed a levels instead, she went back and did another 3 years to get them at which they told her she wasn't competitive enough, I think it was gender discrimination as at the time there were only 2 female pilots in the raf, she then decided to be a midwife so went back to college for a number of years then uni to become a nurse, worked 2 years as a nurse and has now got in to uni for the midwifery course, she's quite determined when she wants to be and never let's anything stand in her way, just one of the things I love about her

I have the forge dv and a pipercross filter, it's !Removed! loud lol I belive that baileys valves don't work well with most engines and cause the ecu to get confused Any auto car with a turbo won't play well with a dump valve from what I have heard, I've seen a few people fit them to different turbo cars over the years with auto boxes and no one had a good tale to tell The flutter noise isn't the dump valve it's the waste gate that gives the chatter, the baileys valve isn't letting enough air out so some is going back to the turbo and the flutter is caused by said air hitting the fins on the turbo

With regards the battery issue, if you can get to halfrauds they offer a free check, the battery with engine off should be close to 12v with the alternator charging it then it will be around 14v a low volts no engine will be duff battery, low or high volts when running is the alternator shot

Most cars with round terminals will have them the way you need them, most motor factors can get you the right battery off the numbers on it, as long as you find a car with a 2.0 engine you should be fine, batteries are only used for starting the car not for powering the electrics, the alternator does that when the cars running, always put you foot on the clutch when starting, especially in cold weather, this causes less drag when turning it over and this puts less strain on the starter motor and the battery

That looks like a foam filter so shouldn't have oil on it, the breather filters are good but be aware the fumes get sacked into the car when idling and the interior fan is on

Depends on the clay, poly clays will work with water, some natural clays like megs will only work with lube, I use both poly clay and natural, for the poly I either use dodo juice born slippy, megs quik detailer or some megs gold class wash and wax mixed with water in a spray bottle, I used dodo juice on the natural clay and it turns all gooey, if your not sure which you have then poly clay is very stretchy, natural clay tends to snap as you pull it apart

If you get the self gassing can they usually do a few refills, and 1 tin is less than a pro coming to fill the system just once, also for those with air con, if you get the funky smells when using it have a look for an air con bomb/sanitiser, they make it smell a whole lot better by killing the bacteria causing the stink

I use poor boys products, I have a poly clay from them and some natty paste wax and black hole polish, I can't praise it enough, all easy to apply and remove, smells great and end results are superb

Nice motors bud, blue one looks proper tidy

Welcome aboard fella, you should be a good font of knowledge for those needing advice on engines I take it?

i've been trying to get him to have a good detail for the last 5 years, he's not a clean addict like me

that shade of red is quite rare and i like it a lot, but saying that i like a white scoob even more, with regards the maf, yes the part you ordered off amazon is the part you need to fit a cone filter, the later maf's have a removeable sensor that can be fitted into a piece of silicone tubing somewhere in the intake do you have a brand of cone filter in mind, the apexi filter is the best for the turbo models, and for most cars in general http://www.driftworks.com/apexi-induction-kit.html DO NOT get one that needs to be oiled as the oil can make the maf wire die prematurely, stick with a dry filter