SF5Fozzi

Long shot...., but try this out. Make sure you got voltage in the battery. Then disconnect the wires at the alternator. Try starting it. If it starts then the alternator's bad. Sometimes the alternator can appear to be operating properly but it can send a disruptive signal to the camshaft sensors that can cause a no start issue. Worth a try🤔

Nightmare.

@savage bulldogs , If the ignition fuse was blown then the fuel pump would not prime👍🏻

Well if it's a standard engine, with standard parts used, it should run good without any teething issues. U get a few teething issues with a fresh engine with every part uprated, as the ecu will not like it, until you get a running in map for you specific engine. Smell of oil usually is oil burning on the exhaust. No boost or power usually is a vacuum issue. Ticking can be exhaust manifold slightly leaking, injectors(some can be much loader than others) or the valves have been incorrectly gapped.

Are your camshaft & crank sensors getting a signal when you turn it over?

Agreed, as PeteB said. 🤞🏻That u have lsd.

What bushes, front or rear on your front control arm? very rare for both go at the same time. If its both front & rear bushes then u may as well get new arms, as you get 2 new arms(obviously LoL), 4 new bushes & 2 new ball joints. They are easy to change over on a driveway. If it's just one bush then I'd replace just the bush. bushs can be pushed out with a suitably sized socket & a large vice. 👍🏻

👍🏻 That sounds about right to me.

Hiya PeteB. Pic below of where I got mine from. Ring darren up & ask if he can do a set like how Iv done mine. he might do a revised version to look like mine using his molds as a base to work from I did forget to mention that cos I'm running bugeye estate peddlers sports Ryder suspension that the wheels were sitting on top of the rear arches so I have to cut them up about 2inches which was quite difficult to weld back up & look like nothing's been done. the same on the front arches, but I cut them a bit lower so I could bend a new lip around to restrengthen it, so the wing wasn't floppy. What sideskirts u got cos I'm after a set if u wanna sell em let me know 👍🏻

You can't go wrong with a h&s system really, they are good quality hand built items. An option is to ring h& Scott directly, book your car in for a custom fitment to your requirements, like aftermarket cat converters for MoT. 450hp wheel or fly? Turbo dependant, therefore you would have to account for the new downpipe connecting to a future turbo....etc etc. It's a mine field. Set your self a clear path & stick with it. Nice car by the way.

+1 on the Lego 👍🏻

As Jay762 said. But id do all the sprockets/pulleys n bolts at the same time. Probably the cover bolts if they are looking in poor condition as well. With the water pump, I would advise that if your changing it then you may as well get the cast impeller version. This vastly improves the flow(therefore runs cooler easier), because of no tiny bubbles/cavitation created. Im running respectable hp & I have a standard radiator fitted & because of the cast impeller(I presume) it does not over heat at all.

LoL Not much talking going on here........

Sf5 Forester. 2002. 2.1stroker. Cdb. Brass rings. Rcm omega pistons. Manley rods. Nitrided 2.5 crank. Dual thrust bearings. 14/12 head studs. 2.5 killer b oil pick up. 11mm oil pump uprated valve. killer b crank windage tray. fuji racing sump baffle plate. Razor sharp knife edged inlet dividers, gasket matched. Cosworth 10mm o-ring thermal spacers. tgv flaps & bar deleted, divider removed, gasket matched & polished. 1050cc id's. fuel rails & hoses. pfr7's. Modine deleted. 2 port water pump. oem spec c oil cooler adaptor. top mount oil cooler. top mount transmission cooler. moore performance gearbox brace. Gasket matched, smoothed & reversed inlet manifold. Sti half sump. Gt equal headers Rotated ewg uppipe(custom) Rotated downpipe(custom) Ewg routed into downpipe(custom) gtx3076r gen2, with turbo speed sensor. Original tial 44mm wg. turbosmart sleeper bov. gsc power division +1mm valves. brian crower valve springs. brain crower 272 cams. rcm track attack oil can. rcm high grip tensioner. gates racing Kevlar belt. rcm 3 port. fm intercooler. omni 4 bar. maffless. 4" ramair filter & 4" inlet hard pipe. Alcatek switchable maps.

I'd choose Manual gearbox all day long👍🏻

LoL. youll av to get your tape measure out I'm afraid, to measure the gap u have so u can then determine the spacer size for the gap u want it to be. Spacers thinner than 15mm thick will require longer aftermarket studs. Spacers that are 15mm thick or over have their own studs built in, come with nuts to put on the oem studs that, if thinner than 25mm will need cutting shorter. & if you do decide to get spacers then make sure that they are hub centric ones.

Glad u got it sorted. For future reference...., the gc8 subframes fit SF5's. ICP has em for about £380 I think from memory 🤔

Hi, what do u need to know?

Hold on a minute.... we are talking about 4-pots replacing the oem fronts AND 2-pots replacing the oem rears? or on the rear, have you got slightly larger 1-pots replacing the smaller 1-pots(pads different shape & size) ? if your using 2-pots to replace the oem 1-pots, then yes, 1-pot to 2-pot brackets are needed. If your swapping larger 1-pots to replace smaller 1-pots I don't think it needs any brackets, just needs the correct sized discs.but not really worth swapping.