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About D3lux

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    Classic UK turbo wagon

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  1. A contributing factor to wheel bearings failing is sticking brakes. If they stick on they cause the hub to run far hotter than it is designed to do. Lack of use, lack of maintenance and poor repairs are the main causes of sticking brakes. Pads can stick in the carrier, slides can corrode and stick, brake shoes can drag. Always a good idea to strip the brake pads out, clean the caliper carrier, grease the pads each time the car is serviced. With the rear pads removed, its a good time to check the function and adjustment of the brake shoes (if fitted)
  2. As one of those bad guys who works in a main dealer (not a Subaru one, now) we have the same problem with wheel bearings. Subaru ones arent the worst! We try to make sure we have everything ready beforehand. The technique we use is to roadtest the car to get a bit of heat into everything then try and strip it before it cools down! Doesnt always help remove the bearing assembly from the hub but usually frees off the CV joint from the centre. We try to keep a supply of old cylinder head bolts for removal too. These can be screwed in from behind and struck to get things moving, have use
  3. Bought a few things from this seller, seems to know his stuff!
  4. If you follow the wiring from the head unit back into the dash you may find a brown and black plug, each with 8 terminals, these are universal connectors to allow you to swap the head unit with another. That section of wiring is the loom adaptor. One adaptor plugs into the Subaru wiring to convert it to the brown and black plugs, the other adaptor converts the brown and black plug to the Pioneer one. Hope that makes sense! If the existing plug from your head unit doesnt fit (it might if they are both Pioneer) you should be able to get an adaptor to connect your new head unit to the brown
  5. What figures did you get for your current logging? Where did you take the readings from? What models? What are you comparing them to? Why are people with £30,000 cars under warranty turning to independant garages and paying for diagnosis? The E boxer system is based on tried and tested components developed over years by Toyota. What data is an independent garage seeing that 2 car companies are missing? Why would you think there will be more problems with the hybrid system? Its simpler, its developed from tried and tested principles older than internal combustion engines, it has less
  6. Not really sure what point you are trying to make? Are you suggesting this problem should be sorted based on advice from unverified users on a forum or should the owner speak to the dealer who supplied the car and is authorised to diagnose and repair it? What module monitoring? Thru CAN, thru the HV ECU? Why is it waking up? Why would this drain the 12v system? Are you suggesting Toyota have designed a system that monitors its self so intensly the millivolt signals will drain a 12v battery within a few days Regardless of the opinions of people on here, an HV car still under warr
  7. Usual diagnostic flow would be.... 1. Is it turning over ok? Too slow=battery, dodgy starter, dodgy earth, something siezed. Too fast=no compression, snapped timing belt. Flashy lights=immobiliser? 2. Is it getting a spark? You need sparks and fuel. If you check for fuel 1st and you are getting fuel you need to clean it up. If you drop the spark plug you dont spill electricity everywhere! Fuel pump noise isnt good enough because you dont know if its pumping it out, you dont know if the ecu is opening the injectors. Now you have established the basics you can check for fault code
  8. The car is still under warranty so you or anyone else messing with it risks invalidating your warranty. From what you describe the car has a 'parasitic drain' on the battery or a fault within the battery its self. Battery problems usually show up relatively easy, parasitic drains can take days to trace as the drain may not happen all the time. Your local dealer will have to submit a printed battery test showing your battery as faulty before IM will let them claim a new one. As someone who works in a dealership (not a Subaru one) we were inundated with customers with flat batteri
  9. The diameter and width should be cast into the wheel on the back of one of the spokes. (I only know because the measuring bit is missing off our wheel balancer at work and all Japanese and Korean wheels seem to have it cast into the back of the wheel! LOL!)
  10. I personally would check the fuses in the engine bay...
  11. As a mechanic who (until recently) worked in a Subaru dealer, diesel Subarus are not very good! Modern diesels in general are kinda built to last a certain length of time. Even gently driven cars with good service history will require expensive DPF replacements sooner or later. Add to this the sensors and carbon build up problems associated with the DPF. This is on the assumption the car has been looked after and driven well. What are the chances a cheap one will have been treated that well? The subaru diesel isnt the best diesel to have and diesels arent the best fuel to use!
  12. Rocker cover gaskets. They leak slightly on mine and the symptoms match.
  13. Argh! I hate these things! I dunno what to say. My name is D3lux. I'm from Scotland. I have a red Wagon (pics posted in members gallery). Er, thats about it! What else do you want to know?
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