savage bulldogs

I think The clocks that should be in a v3 sti will be non digital mileage readout and have a carbon effect around the clocks . Afraid I don't know if the later ones require any modifications to fit or if uk and jdm ones are compatible (due to the rev and speedo being on different sides)

Yeah loads of vacuum and petrol pipes , sensors ect bit of a mare tbo . If you wasn't so far away you could have one of the spare v3 inlets I've got to paint then clean / paint and switch the bits over . just take loads of pics beforehand and use new gaskets on assembly , you'll be fine fella

Thanks gary . rocker covers and red pipes I fine sanded , de greased to prep . I used a acid etch primer , enamel primer, enamel top coat and then lacquer all in halfrouds finest rattle cans . For the block wire brushed and degrease and then used brush on acid etch primer and brush on hi temp engine/ caliper paint off egay the inlet manifold was already powder coated when I bought it

No problem matt you'll get first refusal fella ;-) I'm happy enough with my elbach /whiteline set up so won't be using them myself. pending on how low you want to run them you might want the whiteline bump steer kit as well though

Sound's nice that matt What's the quality of the japspeed stuff like bud ? Cos I can't find a second had 3" decat and they do a new one for about £130 ;-)

Cheers chap will admit I'll have plenty of shiny pipework once I've fitted that fmic cos you can see yer face in that hdi stuff lol . saying that I have been toying with the idea of lagging the pipe from fmic to throttle body to try to keep the temps down ;-) and when I've got the d/s wheel arch liner off im gonna take that blue rusty 3 port bracket off and give it a lick of paint :-) cos it does my head in lol

Got to sell the engine and box first matt, but I'll list a few other bits 2010 sti front seats Wrapped gt spec headers with modified 4 bolt up pipe . autobahn fmic 3" decat turbo back tein coilovers whiteline front /rear arbs and droplinks , anti lift kit , camber bolts . S.S pistoned 4 pots drilled n groved discs x4 Exedy 5 speed clutch But tbo I'm not sure how much of it I'll keep with the shell and apexi ecu set up . so I might have a few my97 parts of mine for sale ie esl'd ecu , maffless set up with painted inlet ect...

Nice to see a older classic being saved from the scrapyard in the sky . I've got a set of facelift oe headlights/sidelights in the man cave . £30 +pp . will also have a full set of facelift pannels in silver up for grabs in a couple of months .As I'm reshelling my uk turbo into a v1 sti shell ;-). Keep us updated on your progress with plenty of pics :-)

Gonna have quite a few classic saloon bit's up for grabs soon as we'll be braking my brvs v1 sti . first we'd like to sell the engine and box so they can be driven/heard beforehand . Original v1sti long block (bottom end and heads) this long engine will fit any version 1,2,3 &4 classic saloon , wagon or 2 door just fit your own inlet and auxiliaries. Genuine 86,000 klm (with paperwork to prove) hand built by sti ,closed deck block , sti cams currently running 347 hp@1.2 bar £800 6 speed gearbox this came out of a uk sti (longer uk ratios) no wines/ crunches including everything needed for a classic conversion

After offering up the 3" dia K&N it looked to big to fit in the bay :-( I had found some 3" outside dia ally pipe (in the pic above) while working on site. which I had intended to polish and use to delete the maff . So I thought fook it lets whip the standard air box out and see if I can make it work Had to keep the ally pipe short (75mm) which means that you can only just see 10 mm of the shiny pipe between the K &N and the inlet pipe . Took it for a test drive and it seems to spool a bit earlier and the noise is sublime , it's even made the recirculation valve sound louder . I've chucked a fair bit of money on mods at my scooby but ,think for £42 and 30 mins work it's probably one of the best value for money ones so far :-)

Sorry pommy i mis read the op i thought you'd asked ,could a leaky dump valve cause your symptoms . I had a few diaphragm dump valves and blew the guts out of them a few times (wear n tear ) just fitted a new diaphragms untill bought a piston type which was much stronger If the diaphragm is gone it will be a leak in the intake air , so the new recirc should solve it , but I'd check your vacuum as well while doing the switch ;-)

Any leak in the vacuum system could cause running/ idle issues .same with the air intake pipe work As the map sensor (on the inlet manifold) and the maff would get conflicting readings , so the ecu would try to compensate by adjusting the fueling and timing .

Looks sweet that baz , nice choice :-) Are you thinking full abw wide arch kit or just the bolt on arches with deeper rims /spacers

Got a couple of bits of the postie today :-) Inlet air temperature sensor and a 3" bore K &N cone filter , just need the 3" decat downpipe and a long weekend off work Intercooler pipes will be staying shiny , well for now anyways ;-)

You can get anti lag , flat throttle shifting, launch control and maffless duel maps on the esl install as well ;-) But will admit simtec (or alcatek with the update) has more parameters for the mapper to tweek . I'd love either alcatek or syvecs with a toucan touch screen :-) As for coilovers bc' are quite well rated but a bit over your price range new . I'll have a set of tien coilovers for sale in a couple of months ,once iv sold my brvs sti cdb and 6 speed classic conversion . Their only height adjustable (no damper adjustment) but they perform well .

Yeah it will have forged pistons and rods ,which might hit 380 hp with a engine rebuild ,as there not as strong as newage sti pistons and rods (which are good for 450 ish). I have heard of odb's hitting 400 ish but ,how long for I don't know. Just bear in mind The other upgrades needed to break the 400hp barrier will cost you in excess of £3k just in parts plus labour and whatever you spend on the engine ;-) 330hp in a lightweight classic ain't no slouch anyways :-)

A true V3 sti will have a open deck but ,the most aggressive classic cams . The internals and odb should be good for just over 350 hp but ,Once you get over 330hp ( in a classic) the necessary drivetrain , brake , turbo ect..upgrades become expensive any ways ;-) mines a v3 they come with preface bumper/ interior , facelift headlights, grill and bonnet

Hi im after a Standard length, bell mouth ,3" dia decat downpipe for a classic impreza. Thanks for looking .

My uk engine slapped when I bought it ,ran fine and even when I had it remapped to 270 hp it still drove faultlessly . I had read something about subaru changing the composite of the pistons during 97/98 and that possibly being the cause . most (but not all admittedly) piston slappy classic imprezas do seem to be v3's and v4's . I used to use my piston slap as a gauge. ... soon as it quietened down I knew It was warm enough to hit the loud peddle . im sure it's nothing to worry about , just keep the oil changes regular and continue to let it warm up and cool down.As the chairman of my local clubs classic has had piston slap since 80 k miles , it now has 170 k and 330 hp and still going strong ;-)

I had the same thing with my old uk turbo engine and after a bit of research ,found that even some expensive oils can differ in viscosity (although they might say the same thing on the bottle) I switched from a 10w 40 millers fully synthetic to a 10w 50 millers fully synthetic which quietened it down when cold and made it totally disappear once warm . will admit mineral oil muffles sound better than synthetic (although it doesn't protect as well) so im a bit surprised that you're getting piston slap at all .

What fuel are you using kev ? As if a cars been mapped for 99 ron and you use a lesser octane fuel it can cause "knock" which would give the same symptoms .

Nice stage to be at tlag :-) as most of the hard work is behind you now bud ;-)

Didn't manage to fit anything today but I did a mock fit of the fmic inlet pipework to check what hoses I'd need to plumb in the recirc . was going to paint the pipework but the hdi pipework looks to shiny to cover in paint tbo .does look like I'll have to relocate my adjustable fpr as well :-( Also ordered a 3" entry k&n cone filter as I've found a suitable bit off ally pipework to delete the maff I won't cut it to size until I fit the fmic pipework (and finished polishing it lol), but it gives you the general idea ;-) Still got to get the intake air temp sensor and weld a bung into the fmic to inlet pipe and find a second hand 3" decat , latter of which to be like hens teeth at the min .

the clutch from sti would be bigger diameter due to the sti being 6 speed and your 2.5 wrx being a 5 speed (I think) try cross referencing the part numbers of the two models ;-) There's some gearbox seals on here http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp?cat=96⊂=183&sec=277&var=32&dc= If you give them a ring when ordering the seal you need and ask them as they'll probably know if the clutch is definitely compatible

Sorry baz We have gone off on a bit of a tangent lol You need yellow injectors for your target 330 hp with no need for a enlarged throttle body You have a standard subaru ecu , all subaru pre 98 ecu's are non mappable unless it's fitted with a esl circuit board . ( like the one in my pic ) Esl runs open source software which means you don't pay a licence fee for using the software to change the parameters of fuel , timing ect . Licenced ecutek software is for 99 onwards ecu's and the first time you use it on a ecu you get charged a licence fee (about £100 I think) ecutek doesn't require a circuit board to be fitted it just plug the mappers laptop into the cars standard ecu the other option is a completely new aftermarket ecu from the likes of apexi , gems , simtec , syvecs ect . Then you'll have to pay the mappers fee to adjust the timing, fuelling, boost ect . this can range from £150 for a tweek (ie fmic to tmic) . To full bespoke duel maps with anti lag , flat throttle ,shifting launch control ect £400+