savage bulldogs

Impreza's normally use a "hard pipe" replacement I think . check to see if your flexi has a vacuum pipe take off underneath like my v3 As I'm unsure if you can just blank it off if your replacement hasn't got a vacuum take off . ash hoses are good quality at a reasonable price

I've only ever fitted one set **** easy .... when the engine's out :-D Don't fancy having a go while the engine's in situ though I'd imagine it's a proppa pita .

Yes bud ,My 97 / 98 is v3/v4 for the impreza What bit are you looking for fella ? The complete turbo inlet hose or the flexi bit between the turbo inlet hose and the maff

Had to work Saturday :-( Did still manage to fit the rcm fuel pump , fuel filter, fit the rear 2 pot calipers/disc's and set of pads all round :-)

Walbro were the oe position pump to have a few years back and always had a good rep . Most people advised to use the original fuel pick up sock when fitting a walbro, as the one in the fitting kit wasn't long enough to reach the bottom of the tank .so I used the original one off the standard pump when fitting mine a couple of years ago and like most people I didn't buy a new subaru sock . Looking at the difference between the two socks in this pic it might be that the original sock filter is past it's best and might have been a issue rather than a fault with the pump . I've checked and although the sock rcm supplied is shorter it still reaches the bottom of the tank fine ;-) Changed the fuel filter (under the bonnet) as well . the rcm pump is very quiet in comparison and I've lost a the strange whistle I used to get from the adjustable fuel pressure regulator when turning the ignition on .

I'd get the tracking checked as if it's out you'd get a pulling to one side and wobble at high speed ;-)

There's two water temp sensors next to each other on the ally water cross over pipe in this pic as for the fans running you haven't left the two green plugs connected while doing diagnosis by chance ?

Temp sensor is behind the alternator on the water cross over pipe (ally pipe that the rad top hose conects to on the block end) I have heard of another fault that causes the fans to run constantly give it a google bud how did you get on with the coolant refill baz ?

Hmm can't you use a single turbo legacy inlet or a impreza inlet ? If you're gonna be running maffless what about using a top entry tdo5 or will the snorkel still foul on the manifold . Let me know if you need any dimensions of a impreza inlet as I've got a v3 (phase 1.5) inlet sitting here . Or just use gambits approach and run actuated (0.5 bar) boost untill she's run in :-)

Walbro were always a quality brand hence why I bought new 2yrs ago , dunno if it's definitely the pump . could be the fpr but, that's only a yr old . the maps transferred ok now and intake temps are better , they just pulled a bit of boost out of the map for safety so it didn't lean off . Now boosts to just over 1bar (15 psi) instead of just under 1.4 bar (20 psi) it was running previously but , it now pulls cleaner , uses less fuel and I've gained a bit of power. might just fit the pump and brakes for now as works manic at the moment and I haven't got much hp to gain from a tdo5

I'd use the garden hose on any coolant pipes that you can top and bottom hose, turbo hoses header tank ect .basically any coolant hose that has a in and out so you can see it flowing and know it's not blocked . just make sure that header tank is constantly full during the refill

If you drop the coolant out again try flushing any pipework (with a inlet and outlet ) with a garden hose espically the heater matrix .When you refill the coolant make sure the heater controls are on hot and fill it slowly with the engine off and squeeze any hoses as you fill . then start it up and keep toping up the header tank as it idles During this DONT LET THE HEADER TANK SUCK DRY as this is what causes the air locks during a refill best of luck baz as surely you're due some luck by now bud

Tidy looking scoob you've got there fella :-) I'd love to have access to some ramps ect :-( have to do my major work on a hard standing in the back garden (did my engine build on the kitchen table lol) Maybe get it dyno'd one of cheapest routes for a fault find imo as for magnetic sump plugs you will get a little bit of swarf on them through normal wear n tear (better on the plug than running through the oil system) I fitted one to mine as although the block is ally the bore sleves and moving components aren't ;-)

Quite chuffed with rcm's service as well . I phoned them yesterday about 330 and got home today to find the rcm pump sitting on the kitchen table😎

Yeah just want it running at it's best but ,the fuelling was all over the place and all 3 mappers that have worked on my scoob are good at what they do .it might have been the pump all along as I've done a bit of research and some recently fitted walbro pumps have been failing :'( Ordered a rcm pump and new fuel filter this evening , just unsure when I'll find the time to squeeze another mapping sesion in . hopefully find time to fit these over the bank holiday weekend well chuffed with A.S performance's service and advice regarding the billet ally black anodised brackets and pagid pad set

There's a few pics of mine and Stanton's multi gauges on this thread fella http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/3994-gauging-interest/

Fit's between the oil filter and oil cooler , so you just remove the oil filter fit the sandwich plate (to where the filter was) And screw the oil filter to the sandwich plate

Oil pressure should be fitted to the original sender under the alternator . Oil temp imo is best located on the bung over cylinder number 3 as it gets the hottest due to being near the turbo .I didn't fit my oil temp in either the sump plug or sandwich plate (between the oil filter and oil cooler) as I think both of those locations have cooler oil in them (so don't give such a accurate reading) I'd agree with tlag in saying oil pressure , boost and oil temp are probably the most useful gauges to have .

I use my 1300 cdti van every day does about 160 mls to £20 :-) Only done 6k mls in the scoob in the 3yrs I've owned it but I get about 18 smiles per gallon :-D well mabye a bit less than that during the mapping session today ;-)

Well the mapping saga continues :'( Tried to road map it this morning but had to abort due to the rain causing the tyres to light up in 4 th . Drove to attowes rolling road in Norwich managed to get 320 hp before the walbro run outta puff . so I now need a rcm pump fitted before I can get any more out of it . on the up side at least my new brake pads and billet ally rear 2 pot conversion brackets have turned up

Sorry I forgot I posted on this thread , is it sorted now ? The main differences between the two are sti engines have higher lift cams and forged pistons. which means that their capable of reaching higher power at lower levels of boost and handle more power before they go bang . Mechanically a v1 /v2 full engine (with it's inlet ) would drop straight in a v3/v4 engine would require you to fit your water cross over piping, inlet and power steering pump . Cos the v3/4 have the turbo inlet pipe run under the inlet manifold .where as your v1/2 has a snorkel on the turbo and the turbo intake runs above the Inlet . the inlet bolt pattern changes from v5 onwards so basically v1 to v4 are compatible even though the inlets look different . whichever route you take id pop the cover of your ecu to see if it has a esl board (which would make it mappable) As I personally wouldn't run a engine to long without knowing it's fuelling correctly .

Nice choice :-) Simon@jgm is popping up to see me tomorrow and i might go to attowes rolling road at norwich I can ask them how much for a remap if you like . as both of them have mapped my brvs apexi at different levels of tune to good results . I'd suggest getting a electronic boost controller fitted with the apexi , cos the fueling can be set up for high boost and you can always turn it down for long journeys ;-)

Hi and welcome Quick guide/spec for turbo'd classics Turbo 2000 made for the uk market about 220hp (depending on what year ) longer ratio gearbox (better on the motorway) and early ones have no aircon ,cheapest to insure wrx about 240 hp (depending on the year) imported from japan, shorter ratio gearboxes , all have aircon ,different trim slightly more expensive to insure You'd spend about £800 to get a standard one of either of these to 300 hp sti 280 hp better brakes , lower suspension, better trim , intercooler , cams ,with shorter ratio gearbox intercooler water spray. cost the most to insure but if you throw £800 at one you'll probably see 340 hp .

I haven't had chance to have a good look and their mainly for older models , but there's a few subaru manuals on here http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals they might cover the areas you're after if it's general mechanics as the boxer engine hasn't changed to much over the years

Once all the pistons and bolts were out my block halves wouldn't come apart I was so tempted to prize them apart with some screwdrivers , but that could damage the machined faces and cause a major oil leak .I ended up bolting them back together and releasing the stuck end first . are you going for a 0.5 mm over bore ash? or have you had the bores checked for wear and taper so you'll get away with just a hone As for me today it's my anniversary and the mrs said she wanted a weekend away in a hotel in Yarmouth . Wasn't looking forward to 1 and a half of off boost driving as it hasn't been mapped for the fmic and decat yet :-( 1hr 10 mins into the journey and I get carved up by a 330 beemer and a st focus having a race . so I had to do the right thing on the next streach of carriage way and leave them both behind in a cloud of black (overfuelling) smoke :-D