savage bulldogs

I think Scooby clinic billet turbos have quite a good rep as there tried and tested turbos sold in the states branded as blouch cant speak from experience about their mechanics as ive never had any dealings with them myself . id love one of these turbos to be honest but don't know what the full cost would be once imported and cant afford the price of the s.c 42 in the uk. back to the remote mapping I assume that you use a open source software and its only available for newage (my 2001 onwards) I don't know much about the info newage ecus give back in the form of logs but , how do you monitor afr ,egt and knock remotely ?

Did you get the adjustable one matt ? If so what bolt hole have you got it set on and what suspension/springs are you running ? As I haven't adjusted mine just put it on the first hole and fitted some whiteline pigtails and it seemed much better, so then thought hey if its not broken dont fix it lol

Yeah it it's black plastic but not the same mottled finish as my side skirts and after 2 yrs has faded a bit .so you might be better off giving it a lick of paint to keep it looking mint as when I'm cleaning it I have to use a ton of back to black to bring it back to life lol I'd recommend the plastic type over the cheaper fiber glass ones as there less likely to crack if you catch it on a kerb ect

Been puzzling me a bit lol what makes you say it's got a phase 2 v5 loom and engine ? As this is the only thing that doesn't add up unless it's had a loom change or has a later v5 4plug ecu fitted . I have dug out this info which ties up with your plate , year , model code and engine number are all the same for a 96 wrx with 280 hp . Launch Date: 9/9/1996 Price: 2,555,000 yen Applied model code: GC8D48D ENGINE Engine Type ....................... 1994cc, water cooled, DOHC 16V, Open Deck block, Boxer Master 4. Engine Code ...................... EJ20KDW6HE Rev Limit ............................ 7000rpm Turbo ................................. RHF5HB Injectors ............................ 470cc Bore/Stroke ....................... 92.0x75.0 Compression Ratio ............ 8.0 Max. Power Output ........... 280ps/6500rpm Max Torque ....................... 33.5Kgm/4000rpm 0-60 Max Speed ........................ 180 km h (restricted) SUSPENSION & STEERING Front Axle ......................... McPherson Strut Rear Axle .......................... Strut Steering ............................ Power assisted rack and pinion. Front Brakes ..................... 15” 2 pot Ventilated Disks Rotor Size ......................... 294x24 Rear Brakes ...................... 14” 1 pot Ventilated Disks Rotor Size ......................... 266x18 ABS ................................... 4 Channel ABS Wheel Size ........................ 16x7JJ Tyre Size ........................... 205/50R16 DRIVE TRAIN Type................................... Full time AWD, Viscous Coupling Transmission Type ............ 5MT Transmission Code ............ TY752VBCAA Transmission Ratios........... 1st 3.166 2nd 1.822 3rd 1.296 4th 0.972 5th 0.738 Reverse 3.416 Final drive 4.444 Overall Length .................. 4340mm Overall Width .................... 1690mm Overall Height ................... 1405mm Wheelbase ........................ 2520mm Front Track ........................ 1470mm Rear Track ......................... 1460mm Weight .............................. 1250kg COLOURS* Feather White #30 Light Silver Metallic #06 Active Red #59 Royal Blue Mica #2D Black Mica #16

Just checked your code on the list on here and it says yours is a v2 ( mabey v3 pending on exactly when it was made) wrx . which should have the phase 1fuel set up v1 /v2 inlet, snorkel turbo ,preface dash, interior , bonnet and lights as far as im aware. Versions are the look of the car and spec . phases are the fuel rail and injector set up

If the smoke is black it's probably unburnt fuel if it's greyish blue then that would indicate it's burning oil . The 3.5 k limiter sounds like "fuel cut " like a sort of limp mode normally associated with overboosting , knock or stored engine codes . Has it got a dump valve if so try blanking it off to make sure it's not faulty . Double check any plugs injectors, sensors, ht leads ect . Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Just thought that would be the only thing electrical you would have removed to fit the downpipe . What about checking the vacuum pipes ? Does it idle ok ? If it's a classic have you done a code check by connecting the plugs under the dash ? Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Not long now then bud :-) Are you going to get a air intake temperature sensor fitted into the fmic pipework and delete the maff with esl ?

I think the classics do look a bit "chinless" without a splitter that looks like the one I fitted to my v3 If so it's a p1 splitter I got a p1 replica from HTA autos a couple of years ago for just over £100 delivered

Have you checked the o2 sensor and wiring/plug near the clutch slave cylinder ? as you might have damaged it or have a loose connection when swapping the downpipe over

That's strange my 97 uk turbo is phase 1.5 and so are all the my 98 v4's I've seen /researched As far as im aware phase 2 is v5 my 99 onwards are you sure it's a my 96 ? As there's sometimes a over lap in the versions pending on what time of year their registered but, not 2 yrs worth confusing lol

Yeah if it's phase 2 it will be v5 .I can't find a pic to put on here but type "impreza v5 dash " in Google look for one with white clocks that will definitely be facelift dash ;-)

Confusing I know but most people class a facelift as a full change ( v4 i think had the dash but preface bumper) V5 full Facelift had the lights , bonnet , different front bumper (smaller indicators) and different dash . v3's were a half facelift just the lights and bonnet I'll try to dig out a pic of a facelift dash ;-)

Mines a v3 they come with facelift bonnet / lights and preface bumper/dash ;-) so the dash/ interior in my pic is preface the facelift dash has a bulge above the center air vents , top glove box or air bag on the passenger side and it hasn't got that ridge running all the way from drivers side to passengers side near the windscreen like mine

That ecutek'd ecu might make things a bit cheaper , if it's got the license with it as all a mappers got to do is plug in and map . as for the price variations it depends on how long the mapping takes ie just a simple tweek changing to decat or just upping the boost on a standard car might only set you back £150 (+ licence) Changing injector sizes ,upping fuel pressure , new turbo or new engine (Where as a full base map and tweek would be needed) could set you back £200 + I'd email a few reputable mappers and ask them about costing and choices as most will travel to you (for a road map) or a rolling road of your choice (costs a bit more but you'd get a power, afr , boost and torque graph )

Dunno if this pic helps it's from when I first got mine so excuse the fugly steering wheel lol

Sorry to hear you've had to get rid of the scooby pom :-( Especially as you'd sorted all the little niggles it had when you bought it . any pics of the new ride then fella ?

Clean classics are becoming increasingly difficult to find , so glad you're intend on making sure it stays in good nick . Mabye clean and wax oil the underneath instead of coating it in underseal . as for the squirm under braking have you checked your disc's for even wear ? As the single pot rear sliding calipers sometimes cease and cause uneven braking

My 97 uk turbo has single pot sliding rear calipers with solid discs as standard. They're not filling me with confidence since the slight increase in power. Due to the 2 pot newage rear calipers running bigger discs you have to remove the !Removed! guard's and buy conversion brackets to make the bigger set up fit the classic 160 rear hubs (handbrake shoes are compatible though). could see it wasn't going to take much effort to remove the !Removed! guard's as they were in !Removed! condition (rusty as fook) Once removed I gave the hub a bit of a clean up slapped a bit of hammerite on the hub and fitted the billet ally conversion brackets Changed the brake fluid , fitted a new set of pads all round tthe rear discs and calipers then adjusted the hand brake shoes . can't tell you if it's made much of a difference as I'm trying not to brake to hard untill they've bedded in a bit but they certainly look like they're gonna work a bit better

Did you use new gaskets for the inlet ect ? Checked all vacuum hoses are fitted in the right place and not leaking? Your using your injectors , inlet, turbo , wrx cams ... ect with your ecu so the map shouldn't be far out imo What mods are you running on the standard map (ie induction, exhaust, fmic ect ) ?

97 /98 only the sti's and all 99 onwards had 440's All other pre 98 had 380's so your inlet and grey 380cc injectors will be fine with the map on your standard original ecu baz . The 97/98 ecu won't fit any other version classics due to the 3 plug loom anyways. I would definitely get the car on a rolling road asap once the engine's in and running. As it's probably the best way to make 100% sure it's running spot on and for the sake of £50 it's better to be safe than sorry

My brv runs a apexi system and the hand controller gives loads of info knock , boost , injector indutiy and loads of other peak info great bit of kit for the money. Main things that made me choose esl for my v3 over the apexi was the fact that the apexi can't run mafless (ideally needed for 400 + hp builds) it only measures knock and doesn't advance or !Removed! the timing to stop it like the esl'd oe ecu There's a few other aftermarket options alcertek , syvecs ect but they'll cost a fair bit more than either of the above .

I did a bit of research on the restrictor pill prior to my first remap and found this list which states the size and position for classic oe pills I don't know to much about the vacuum system tbo but , I think the restrictor pill is fitted to help stop boost spike in the oe map when the engine is under different loads (ie different gears or going uphill ect ) MY93-96 ... 3 port*solenoid*2.0mm restrictor fitted into the vent pipe between*solenoid*lower port and intake MY97 (Euro) ... 2 port*solenoid*1.2mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece MY97 (JDM) ... 2 port*solenoid*0.9mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece MY98 (Euro) ... 2 port*solenoid*1.2mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece MY98 WRX (JDM) ... 2 port*solenoid*0.9mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece MY98*Sti*4*... 3 port*solenoid*1.5mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the*solenoid*adjacent to the*solenoid*top port MY99 (Euro) ... 2 port*solenoid*1.2mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece MY99 (JDM) ... 2 port*solenoid*0.9mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece MY00 (Euro) ... 2 port*solenoid*1.2mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece MY00 (JDM) ... 2 port*solenoid*0.9mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece

Looks the same as my v3 , but the v5/v6 set up looks the same as mine as a bit as well . It's only the offset inlet bolt pattern, recirc valve being directly attached to the tmic and coil pack being of center (my v3 coil pack sits in the center of the inlet) that are the main visual differences. My flexi is definitely 80 mm ish I/d at the maff end cos ive got some 3" (76mm) o/d ally pipe where the maff used to be ;-) The vacuum pipe is directly below the throttle cable clipped onto the flexi (in your pic ) on my v3

Got these rough measurements from when I deleted my maff last month ;-) maff to intake flexi pipe intake end 72mm Inside dia Filter box end 80mm inside dia intake pipe (flexi end ) inside dia 66mm outside dia 73mm