savage bulldogs

weathers nice round here so I thought id take the (recently mapped) scoob for a drive today B) warmed her up droping the mrs and kids off in town and headed for the carriageway :D haven't got any power figures but I quess ( im either running closer to 350 than I thought or) the uk 5 speed was weaker than most cos as soon as I hit 1.4 bar in 3rd gear I lost all power and gained a nasty noise limped the car home without 3rd gear well im sure ive still got 3rd but its rattling round in the bottom of the box with the shockproof oil now at least silver lining is now the hunt for a 6 speed begins ;)

I had a cobra sports cat(fairly good quality) think I paid about £250 for it new and only upgraded due to fitting a full 5zigen system . if your gonna fit it yourself grab yourself a turbo outlet gasket, downpipe to cat back 'o' ring and maybe new cat back bolts/springs (if they don't come with the new cat as a kit). "import car parts" is probably the cheapest place to get your gaskets

hi im after non dccd 6 speed set up, box ,cradle,prop,gearstick,and matching diff so I can convert my 97 uk turbo . thanks for looking clive

I went for the esl option on my v3 uk turbo and now running duel mafless maps .I chose the esl due to it working out cheaper once supplied fitted and mapped (£550 in total ) but also because it retains the factory's knock system and allowed me to remove the (prone to fail ) maff . Id suggest droping simon @ jolly green monster a email and discuss your options as he's a moblie mapper and will come to you once you've made a decision .

I bought my exedy pink box anti judder from mark @ lateral performance for about £260 inc delivery ,if you do stick with the standard flywheel make sure its got a 100% true surface (preferably get it skimmed) . otherwise no mater what clutch you fit you'll probably end up with judder due to the uneven surface. im happy with the oe pedal feel of the pink box and their rated to 400hp so more room for future mods .

420 makes for a very rapid classic methinks nice choice fella what gearbox and clutch are you running ? as their the next things on my upgrade list im looking for a clutch that's good for road use, handle 550 hp,but wont break the bank (or the wifes leg lol)

they look the same as the v1 heads I recently refurbished, same early style cam cap bolts and (as said above) only the v1 /v2 cam covers have "4 cam 16 valve" on them . you could take one of the cams out and remove the hydraulic lifter out from under the cam lobe to check if it has removable shims (that sit on top of the valves) as far as im aware only v3 and v4 sti heads have these .all other versions have un removable shims attached to the underside of the lifters

Be careful not putting the retaining screw in your bung boys .As when I finally fitted the new engine in mine it was quite late so ,for the neighbours sake , I just pushed the bung in . Nice and quiet on idle but , I couldn't resist tickling the throttle which popped the bung out and smashed it through my fence panel which set the bulldog off waking up most of the neighbourhood anyways doh

Nice clean looking RA Im assuming the roof flaps oe and the side skirts have been added . What power is she running ?

Nice looking example fella ;-) As for the fuel leak it might be the fuel filler neck as their prone the rust on the uk models . I had to replace mine with a second hand one of a jdm classic , cos me £30 and took me about a hour to fit myself

I've heard of tmic running close to 400 hp but (as miggs said) they do suffer from heat soak as their on top of the engine .you can make a few improvements to the tmic set up by fitting a sti , newage, or aftermarket one .Also fitting a air splitter (zerosport make one ) and a bigger under tray to increase air flow . I upgraded to a sti v3 (as my scoobs a v3 ) straight fit in about a hour as I was only running a tdo4 . Imo smaller turbo's struggle to fill the extra pipework and capacity of a fmic and therefore are only worth the hassle if you intend on aiming for over 300 hp

Thanks for the offer but , to be honest I've got the 5 minimum runners so im in no panic to fill the spaces . Just thought I'd share the opportunity of cheap health check and power printout in case any of you boys were local . I only arranged it as simon (jgm) road mapped mine and I was curious as to what power she's making but the scooby city rr day got cancelled . A few local lads were looking forward to it to so rather than going on my own I thought make a day of it . Should be good variety of motors there v8 mustang , v8 s4, focus st , newage scoob , me and a 500 + hp classic .

Hi I've organised a rolling road session in norwich as the one on my local forum (scooby city) got cancelled. there's 4 spaces left out of 10 .It's not a competition or a club event ,just a run on the rollers for a health check and power printout . It's £46 + vat and will only cost £40 +vat ,if I can fill the other 4 spaces . It's taking place at clive attowes on the 26th of October http://www.enginetuning.net/ And all marques of car are welcome and if you fancy it or need any further information let me know . Hope you don't mid me posting this here mods , as its not a club event Cheers Clive

I been running 17 " with 215 45 kumos for the past 8k ,can't fault em as a medium priced/ compound tyre , as their soft enough to to be grippy but i haven't suffered from round about scrub (well not as much as the previous neros anyways ) Think I payed just under £400 for all 4 fitted . Camskill and black circles are worth a look if you're gonna buy some off the net

+ 1 for the diff being wound up due to the different radius , I didn't spot the tyre size difference in the earlier post .As a friend of mine made his type r dccd clonk and clatter by putting odd size temporary wheels / tyres on while his rims were being refurbished (he only moved it off his driveway). My brv had a 330d bmw with different width tyres as oe , but the same profile /rolling radius all round . Although I'm unsure of the legality ,I would have thought having different profile tyre's front and rear (even if their same size on each axle ) would have affected the handling even on a 2wd . unless it was designed that way, due to the different ride height front to rear than intended for the oe geometry up .

Looks like the rs was to good a bargain to turn down fella The renny 5 was serious (torque steering) fun but, not the most reliable bit of machinery I've ever owned lol . As for the mk1 golf he converted that to awd himself ,it's off the road at the moment though as he's trying to calibrate the different cam sensor position on the new ecu . His mk2 golf is nearly there though that's awd running a forged 18t audi engine , he does love a vdub and keeps saying that my flat four should be in the back lol

Best indication which brake is binding would be to check for uneven lips on the discs/ wear to the pads. The usual culprit is the inside rears (on the sliding single pot rear set up)

It's not anywhere near as modded as ash's rs , nice work bud I can understand why not many like the vectra lol bit of a common (rep mobile) car but with 2 kids and loads of electrics and leather seemed like a good idea .The 3ltr 24v v6 sounded sweet with the remus zorst and the next stage was gonna be a rotrex super charger , but I got stuck in the snow and decided instead of chucking more money at it to get a scoob and go 4x4 . Anyways here's a couple of pics of my mates (sleeper) mk1 4x4 golf I don't know the full spec Vr6 engine forged and bored to 3ltr 1000cc injectors Gt350rr turbo (hybrid) Twin dump valves Side exit exhausts Straight cut gear box And here's the results off the dyno @ the wheels

loving the rs fella used to have a brodie tuned Renault 5 turbo back in the day and you shouldn't under estimate a small car with boost lol this was my previous project 3ltr v6 omega powered Vectra not very quick off the mark but pulled nicely on the carriage way my mate is well into his vdubs and owns a few nice projects 1800t 4x4 mk2 golf syncro and a 4x4 mk1 golf with a blown forged vr6 lump I'll dig out some pics of those over the weekend

I know that Subaru recommend 10w 40 fully synthetic in imprezas (fairly sure it wold be the same in a foz) id maybe try some 10w 50 on your next oil change as I think its slightly thicker when cold than the 5w 50 . and best of luck with the babe buddy

couldn't help with the re routing query im afraid but a friend of mine bought a rather expensive hard race dog bone engine mount only to find out that it had exactly the same part number as the oe one (just had a different bush) .not saying there was anything wrong with the quality but, it would have been cheaper to uprate the bushes in his old one ;) have you thought about getting some standard trailing arms powdercoated and maybe a uprated poly bush set .as it might work out cheaper and resolve the re routeing problem

I'm a plasterer by trade, don't think my undie draw would have much you'd wanna look at lol now my shed on the other hand is a bit of a aladins cave miggs I agree the crystals and a splitter is all that's needed to freshen up the front end of any classic and I quite like the early bumper due to bigger indicators and air vents/slots .As for future power upgrades I ran it in on the tdo4 and 380's then fitted a fpr, nissmo 550's,ported some oe headers,H&s up pipe and converted a early top entry tdo5.I haven't got any power figures yet but,i don't think the uk 5 speed would handle much more (hence the need for 6 speed lol).The pistons and rods are good for 750 but I never intended to run it anywhere near that, id be happy to push the limits of the pink box clutch for now to be honest the only things I didn't like about my standard v3 was the body roll which was sorted by fitting elbaich springs whiteline rear arb/droplinks and front ally droplinks .Then 2 pot front brakes had to go as well due to the total lack of stopping power .so I refurbed a set of 4 pots with stainless pistons,braided lines,kevlar pads and new discs thanks for the comments on the engine it took months of research and a good 4 weeks (of evenings and weekends) to refurb and port the heads/build the block .I only started the build due to the piston slap in my v3 getting worse after I had a esl fitted and mapped .so as me and my brv both own classics and we bought a v1 sti with a break in the loom which couldn't be found.so I ended up with some sti heads,cdb and a few choice shiny bits cheap .then waited for the right parts to turn up at the right price and managed to keep the cost to a sub £2k

Well spotted fella I generally only take pics when I've added something to the scoob , hence first pic with the standard front clear lights (new splitter) second pic with the new crystals headlights. As far as other exterior mods go it's got tinted rear lights and front indicators and debadged bootlid (quess I need a few recent ones lol) I've got loads of the build (almost step by step) just in case I ever wanted to sell the engine on at a later date

Quite lucky as the mrs likes cars she even said the (quiet) 2.5" magnex system wasn't "scooby sounding enough" and bought me a 3" jasma zigen turbo back for my birthday this year .Although i will admit she wasn't so keen on me building the engine on her kitchen table, but it's the most clinical environment known to man (so ideal for engine assembly) You never know I might get a fmic and 6 speed for Xmas lol

enjoy a bit of bf3 on the xbox myself ;) the main mod/expense has been the self build I did all of the work myself (bar the machine work) and its only just been mapped by jgm after the 1k mile running in period . It seemed to take forever to run in but , im much happier now with boost n burble back in my life :D heres a couple of the build and one of it fitted next mission is to persuade the wife that we need a 6 speed box in our lifes