Mr B

for road use it no real benefit . mishimoto is option or nissens for a direct replacement . I believe oem p/n on yours will be 45119SA020 but I not in the shop to check on that 100% . 120 to 350 is rough price range from nissens to oem and mishimoto 230ish . if do fit mishimoto think twice before using increased pressure rad cap, absolute no need increase pressure above factory spec for road use in UK climate and with engines known factory HG issues it not a wise move .

Dealer will charge you if it breaks off don't assume they cover it free ... dealer rates are ridiculous . Try yourself or use a good independent ... These are known to potentially snap off so be gentle, work it slow, back and forth quarter turns .

Those parts all same to any 02-05 SG forester of any spec ... eBay will have all of that but local breakers be cheaper if did have one online you got chance finding tidy wing same colour which cheaper/better than refinishing it. Best getting good priced bumper and painting it as unlikely get one not scuffed even if right colour & high price ...

Check the glow plug connection clean as debris here can cause it short. simply check the plug resistance/open circuit with a multimeter . Wouldn't use a main dealer as they can get silly prices on these and part aftermarket is easy get . I pull plugs with engine hot, can be super tight but gentle slow approach of back and forth 1/4 turns generally gets them out, gentle and slow saves money and drama on these .

Might be advisable check/change gearbox/diff oil. Sounds like gear teeth or bearing issue, possibly teeth meshing if here it more on over run/ gets loader at moment you lift off throttle . Some noises are improved with better gear oil or if oil level low fill it right up to max . Noises hard advise accurately without actually hearing it . what the vehicle history ? high miles, likely been towing ??

Does it do it with vehicle stationary with clutch out ? open drivers door and check noise with clutch out and clutch in and blip throttle to see if can effect it . Have you checked gearbox and diff oils since you had it ?

That is a good price .

probably because that earlier model bushed drop links (up to 2002) and your SG uses jointed drop links .

Needs a power and ground check at the connector point and also consider new not always good/correct If a cheap sensor you can get these issues . jap made sensors are best ones to use .

Gates do decent upper and lower hoses, we had some before but hard find stockists .

Compression will be more effected by head and block facing and HG used, this all can be calculated and compression/ cylinder cc can be set/balanced to desired range and all part of component preparation . Waste of time commenting without seeing them in hand but if not decent/new pistons start with they not worth working with, amount you would remove in that area be minimal concern to piston strength, the edge chip more concern to whether salvageable . head and block surfaces and timing belt being reused gives me idea your extra money kitty won't be that great on this one ...

^ If is only crown pitting of a few thou and ringlands and skirt A1 and they brand new and quality then we likely get the set crown dressed and weight matched at the machine shop, from pictures hard to say but it common practice on light pitting and something you review on individual basis . Looks like was a rough build and underlying issue not addressed and must be pretty severe lean/timing condition , valve seating wants be checked and the cam journals as they can be scored real bad on these with poor oil and contaminated oil, don't look like it been skimmed or hot tanked either .

Piston looks to be salvageable and if it new more so . You need get that on rollers once built up and fueling/mapping checked as the det is what probably caused HG issue first time round . Block will need good surface clean or skim. Head surface certainly needs a proper smooth finish skim but check cam bearing surfaces as if they are badly scored you best sourcing new heads . Do a fair few of these and if left running with water in oil for long time cam journals and main bearings suffer .

Blueprint glowplug wil be ADS71802, all same from 2010 to 2012, ashuki p/n is S785-02 eBay not cheapest for these . Some underseal and wax protection not a bad thing on these, shultz done proper in rear wheel well/turret good and a light spray of waxoil or similar on underbody every 2-3yrs can make huge difference when car aged another 10yrs+

Blueprint service parts are fine, we use them a lot . For glowplugs we use ashika at about £22 a plug. You can also find the Blueprint plugs around 75-95 pounds a set if hunt around. No need change annually , fit them with high temp ceramic based anti-seize or similar and schedule a removal, inspection and refit 1 to 2yrs and replace 4 to 5yrs . We get them out engine hot and use a gentle low power impact for several minutes as vibrations help remove the carbon jamming up the tip threads .

Try get triple 5 (555) for the BJ's and meyle HD for drop links . Meyle been or best links

Tripple 5 ball joints and meyle HD drop links about best we found ADL also good Moog not bad . Most stuff is monkey metal these days .

ecu would be my last choice with those symptoms .

Ideally want a scanner on it looking at live data while it happening . coolant sensor might be worth a look as could be heat effected lambda values while on start/stall and after 10 minutes could be useful data idle valve certainly worth a clean, possibly it gets sticky and trouble moving freely after first hot start but 10 minutes cools it off enough !

bushing on the chromed rod, as these wear it can cause a bit of neg camber but they normally leak if getting bad . Could be just way that one is, possible could be improved to some extent by loosening strut to hub bolts and pulling hub upright as much as slop allows . Even with no parts fault if want perfect camber then camber bolts a must .

No camber adjustment on rear from factory . trailing arm won't effect it but badly worn/ damaged lateral links would as does worn strut rod bearing and top mount issue . all easy check, camber bolts easy solution for fine adjustment once suspension accessed good.

comp tests can read fine too . sometimes only way have available evidence for 100% diagnosis is give it little time .

early stage minimal HG issues that play up rarely at certain temps and cylinder stresses on the 2.5 many times test fine via gas probe sniff, liquid colour test and pressure test . If want 100% confirmation sometimes you got carefully wait and monitor and retest .

Blueprint filters are fine, we used them for 2 decades for basic service scenarios without issue on subarus, nissans etc . if turbo i'd go ester full synthetic, cheaper option is castrol magnatec which decent (use it in most NA engines we do) and ideal cost for regular changing .

I would stay away from dealer as the be expensive for parts and won't have much working experience on older car scenarios. If want brake parts you best buying off eBay, set of rear shoes for example is only around 18GBP for apec or brembo and wheel cylinders are about same price from apec or ADL Blueprint . If you think it brakes after more testing try pulling drums off to visually inspect and plan part requirement ...