Mr B

Cheap tyres on a turbo awd never a great concept, If intend keep car for more than couple years buy half decent tyres as UK weather and roads needs it . The other issue is rolling circumference difference of old and new and brand mix tyres winds the diffs up and stresses transmission and drive train massively, also the differing grip levels can create handling issues .Plus with miss match tyres you can never rotate tyres correctly so wear uneven and points above become bigger issue . I can understand not wanting pay 400 to 500 but you need spend around 50 to70 a corner. ebay can make tyres cheap if hold out for a ebay 10 or 20% coupon code. Hankook kinergy 4s H740 another pretty decent option at mid level cost . The Maxxis all seasons I linked in other thread pretty nice for lowish cost . The alfamotors I linked to have good euro ratings and are V rated and very cheap if price point needed . Never cheap out too much on tyres, brakes or suspension parts in general as quality of some of the stuff in the market today is frightening .also realise your value and family safety value ... choose wisely .

eBay for diff, search for forester turbo breaking as well, average price is probably 100 + - 20, can be found cheap but never when want it or never local . https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=forester+turbo+rear+diff&_sacat=0 Mixing tyres on awd is bad idea ( best way killing transmission and running gear or the family) If other 2 tyres not close to new you need a full set and sell the part worns . this is about as cheap as can go for tyres, would buy better if can though as cheap tyres never last well thus not that cheap in long term . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-4-x-215-60R16-93V-ALFAMOTORS-DK558-NEW-QUALITY-TYRES-LOW-PRICE-BUDGET/223115535260

Genuine Subaru Forester Rear Left Hand (LH, Nearside, Passenger Side) Shock/Strut SLS Self Levelling Suspension 20360SA111 Removed from a 2006 Subaru Forester 2.0 X SG Should fit 2003 to 2008 SG Forester models (supersedes 20360SA110, compatible to 20360SA112 & 20360SA113) . Compare images to your vehicle Shock before buying . Fitting with new springs to both sides probably advisable for best results (Kilen do SLS springs) was new unit 6yrs ago as replaced by subaru dealer under used vehicle warranty . No leaks and ride height good . other side failed and salvaged this good one. Ideal cheap fix if your nearside failed and sagging/leaking fluid (mot failure) These cost £340 +vat from Subaru parts dealer . Get your SLS suspension fixed for bargain price and keep it original quality SLS setup . shipping be courier . 7KG large parcel (2 to 4 working days) £49 inc shipping UK mainland (payment via paypal)

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Once sills and arches got pretty bad rust it does get hard/spendy put it right to a good standard . pretty tidy SF can be had around 1K mark, none are going be perfect at almost 20yrs old but subframe not too hard but bit spendy potentially and rear shocks/springs easy and cheap & all worth doing on a tidy shell .Keep an eye out as well worth having decent one and your current one be good farm beater/spares donor .

maxxis AP2 all season .

If the rot too bad get it done and keep using it, Most have subframe rot at that age, as long rear arches, sill ends and rear trail arms body mount good rest a pretty easy fix . Hard find clean manual 99/2000 Foresters, I'm looking all the time for 2000 all weather model in silver, green or dark blue . clutches on the diesel fozzy is junk :-/

Really wouldn't bother with that halfords stuff, better off with likes of toptul premier and picking best of lines from likes of welzh werkzueg, britool halmark ect . By the rules you do need a receipt and they don't cover moving parts in the terms so can be bother if staff not helpful . Life warranty generally not worth a lot on basic hand tools, companies drop line or kicking out crap by time you need an exchange .

quality pistons but pay attention to comp ratio with the group n spec as offsets piston 1mm up bore over standard .

ADS74223 ! compare visually and measures length/width length 110.4mm width 37.5 thickness 13.8

Only thing happen as turbo working near it's max is efficiency down thus charge temps higher with low density . If charge temps was ridiculously high you will have det and piston issues pretty fast . Exactly when your overheat occur, always under heavy throttle and boost, cruising, in traffic ??? You best just being super thorough with hunting leaks, fitting new stat, testing flow and system pressure holding and if can't find fault give it little time until can . Plug colours/deposits give you good idea on how it running and differing look indicates potential likely cylinder with issue/linked to issue . Will need a trained eye unless severe plug colouration/deposits . 3 things I see most for overheating is airlocks/small leaks and 'new' low quality thermostats and head gaskets, on the 2.5 roughly 8 out of 10 seem conclude as head gaskets .

As stated few times headgasket tests means very little on these . Thermostat wants checking for function and if decide replace it get oem or top quality as cheaper ones probably worse than old . Want check radiator flow and cooling flow in general . Want be sure coolant system got no leaks and holds pressure correctly . My suspicion is early stage HG issue but could never diagnose it to a customer without more evidence .

That good, normally is bent switch after garage been working in engine bay, we had a few in after been a halfords garage or mot ect . I would assume 6th gear not related to them working on car, seems highly unlikely it would be to me ...

Doesn't show bonnet on dash, from your test sounds fairly unlikely it switch which shame . Wondering if some wiring point been stressed during work they done and the alarm and gear indicator fault all part of it ! Would be wise talk with garage and do good visual inspection on all wiring/electrical in areas they been working .

I would imagine garage mechanic bent/moved the bonnet sensor switch when working in engine bay, the beeps are warning a door boot or bonnet ajar . I would guess gear indication separate issue and probably not related !

Check the front brake clearance. !6" probably best either off forester or outback, used sets on eBay normally pretty reasonable .

Just use non SLS springs with the non SLS rear shocks and you good to go, simple as that if needed .

Just for anyone who references this, the RA6028 is KYB heavy duty springs for the forester SG, not a specific set for the XT model. Closet for XT in KYB is RC6431, only difference is 10mm ride height roughly . The heavy duty ideal for those towing or loading heavy

It not so much tech advance but manufacture engineering has been honed to make the items just durable enough for shorter expected lifespan. Throw in canbus and electronic modules for just about everything with minimal durability and you got a lot of expensive faults/junk 6 years down the road . I see it everyday comparing 15 to 20+yr old cars to new . Good example is window motors, take the late 90's subaru window motors and compare with ones from early 2000 onwards. One cast alloy housing with bolt on cover plate with gasket other cheap plastic with push on butyl sealed cover and getting more flimsy newer you go, guess which one fills with water and common failures lol . We don't see many niggly stupid faults or much expensive mot issues on the older cars, newer stuff is constant ballache and some silly prices to fix silly little faults that quite simply shouldn't be happening ... Common mot issues on newer models is suspension bushes as design and rubber quality reduced, emission issues and lighting/horn/airbag linked to canbus/module or wiring issues all basically due to poor manufacturer quality . everything like it unfortunately, not just cars, can't even make decent loaf of bread these days :-/ You have to be insane to buy a brand new car and got be insanely picky on buying your bread lol, what a amazing modern world !

That is a problem with the so called greener aircon gasses ! Impact damage is 100% recognisable, I would concur your dealer trying avoid doing anything warranty based as probably getting hassle getting subaru credit them on the jobs .

I seen couple locally this year but both pretty much beyond worthwhile repair . Expect anything proper tidy with decent welding work be way over 2K . burns some serious money/time doing body repairs to high standard .

Yeh few come up on eBay but rare but a finished road ready option, they were rust buckets and got used hard thanks to the 4wd . I got an old L series station wagon 1.8 turbo, runs okay and trim pretty tidy but sills and floor pan and rear arch wells needs some major fabrication work, luckily doors and wings pretty good

Yeh obvious it power feed or ground issue to starter . The clicking is solenoid activating then starter wants huge supply of current but can't get it and solenoid effected from power draw and cycle commences of solenoid clicking on and off. jump cable oldest low tech trick in the book, you can diagnose these in 2 minutes with a multimeter with a voltage drop test (you must test circuits when in use/loaded) plenty info and vids on voltage drop testing starter wiring for those who want have a try . glad job jobbed lesson learn here is don't swap parts, learn how test things first .

Generally if battery good high resistance (terminal corrosion, bad wire ect) in 12V supply cable or the ground causes symptoms you got . If you got a multimeter and know how perform voltage drop tests you likely find issue pretty quick. A quick option is using jump cable as direct ground from battery to starter and can do same for + side too if ground makes no difference .

As above, this same for the 2.5XT. Take your time buying a tidy well maintained 05 car and you laughing £225 a year saved just because car few months newer is worth it imo. I actually have 2 foresters 1999 & 2000 and they 255 a year which enough imo for driving on pot hole gravel tracks they call public roads ...