Mr B

No can't really go with used hub as bolt they on about goes through the hub so same issue, it got come out . I do these all the time, they can be ballache but if soak them few days with penetrating oil and then attack them with heat and air gun followed by air hammer you normally get them free. If you use a hub tamer bearing kit you can do bearing on car as long as get driveshaft free so can work around this seized bolt by trying remove the link other end . Also be aware new springs will not fix your sagging issue, you have hydraulic SLS (self leveling) rear struts and the hydraulics fail and rear sags about 50mm or more. Fix is new KYB struts (non SLS as they only available genuine at about £700 a pair) and matching springs for non SLS suspension (springs differ between sls and non sls) , (less than £200 in parts . I done a thread on this if search . If need more details just ask .

No idea on what year jdm went to skim key fully, I remember doing a 99 and 2000 jdm with them .

Think I would retrace my steps and try best find the key lol . If was fresh import then would have only standard skim key (transponder immobilizer) built into ecu and 2 button fob built into key which central locking only . For eu/uk market they had to have upgrade meet eu requirements and that out sourced at that time to sigma, sigma made a new custom cover for the standard 2 button key which turned it into 1 button and had a custom made pcb board fit the key fob assembly . Would assume you going need a cat1 cert for insurance so if didn't have anything fitted something will need fitting . Key and skim chip easy enough sort and any half decent locksmith can do that , subaru central locking could be sorted easy enough, sigma alarms easy enough sort too if does have one, if no alarm system and adding one that can control the central locking as well as that what sigma does and and any alarm system has door locking interface outputs for integration . Car keys are pretty expensive things, one of first mods want do is sort key spares and alarm pin (if have a sigma) amount of panic and expense I seen over years as this been overlooked is scary . Any new customer we get with sigma's gets asked if have pin code as easy reprogram if have a working remote and easier for them and us to have it sorted before an issue rather than after .

Parked up and catch the sun on black leather is awful lol . This time of year I love my all weather heated seats in the mornings lol, is really effective and great to have, can see why subaru so popular in canada ....

If it mainly noise it may stay like it for ages but if can feel the issue at low speeds it really needs sorting . I done the odd rear diff so I know the viscous units can go bad Is your XT auto or manual ? your first thing is accurate diagnosis or at least crossing off options narrowing it down. I've had customers in who spent hundreds on rear wheel bearings and new tyre set then moved on to me for help and it was the diff. flip this scenario and some tyre issues wheel bearing and rear brake issues can causes drive line type faults/noises so it needs looking at by someone with subaru experience. I could probably diagnose that in 30 minutes from short test drive and putting it on lift and running it in gear on the lift and doing basic examinations, it not that complicated to a clued up mechanic .

It takes less than 10 minutes do a relative compression check and useful as gives idea on engine health in general as well as some direction on your issue. It indeed likely CPS sensor, coil or wiring related but without some test data on basics you just guessing and have no direction in trouble shooting it . I see these NA engines at over 200K without much drama, relative comp test give you some useful data to it's condition and life and if shows lower comp on cylinder 1 may show reason for the code .

Rear diff is a sealed viscous lsd unit so changing rear oil or adding additives makes little difference when this the fault . Other thing check here is tyres are matching make, even tread wear and pressure correct. Any of this wrong and rolling circumference can differ enough to wind up transmission . If when doing tight slow manoeuvres you can here and more importantly feel it in drive train DO NOT leave it as can seriously damage drivetrain to point of severe failure . Is quite common see cars with rear lsd fault have recent new tyres and rear wheel bearing in effort fix the symptoms then sold as wallet burned out by bad mechanics/advise so see if this seems case with yours (what tyres on it and any recent bills or signs of work on the rear) Rear diff if is needed best done with a used unit, XT diff is same as some impreza and not hard find and not expensive (under £100) Removing and fitting rear diff not that hard of a job, about 2hrs if have few rusty fittings but simple enough and nothing complex. Absolute no need go whole rear axle that just silly, be logical do some checks such as tyres wheel bearing and brakes, (infra red heat gun superb tool for this) If doing a diff get someone who experienced with subarus and take bit of time source diff rather than blind panic buying first thing find. New diff will be silly expensive so don't even bother unless was warranty assisted repair . I would expect a small refund from dealer who sold you car, even if just £100 as good will gesture .

when say windows, fronts rear or both ! Front motors are troublesome as the motor housing faces down and collects water over time but symptoms of that normally slow and weak window movement.Check glass for alignment to seals as adjustable guide blocks keep frameless glass on course and if these out noise can be due to glass alignment off . Wiping seals down with silicone spray and lubing glass tracks with white lithium spray grease good practise . Motor removal pretty easy if know how do it but if don't can turn into a disaster, I can do some pics and basic pointers on removal if need arises . Don't pamic over sourcing motors as that pretty easy . Mirrors probably crusty mechanism, can try some careful application of contact spray or wd40 mixed with cycling operation and see if improves .

It's a small country but your forester can cover all of it all year round :-) I'm few miles from dartmoor national park ... You in barnet as in north london, not really 4wd fozzy country ...

Can't go far wrong with a petrol forester . hopefully we'll get some snow so you really get to enjoy it ...

His ar5e will be warm and perhaps a bit sweaty ! . seats straight swap, pretty simple fit heated seats to even a non all weather fozzy as harness points all exist in main harness run . Not a big fan of japanese leather or leather car interiors in general, age badly and awful in extreme cold and extreme heat .

Other thing to do before engine fitted is a new set of heater plugs, see post on here for info on heater plugs .

Basically a good used late 2010 or early 2011 ee20 complete block minus accessories, swap over injectors and all external parts to the new salvage supplied assembled block using new oem gaskets etc as needed. exact gaskets needed will all be down to how your breaker supplies engine and your dismantling technique., you also want service items oil filter, air filter, coolant. You will want review your clutch and dmf while engine out so could add another 500 . Finding good used engine at sensible price is the hardest part but if you not in a major hurry you should do okay .

At a guess from what I dealt with so far cost is about 2K if lucky. good revision diesel engines are worth more than your dead car . I see the foresters available at between 1K to 2K pending on finer details of spec mileage and overall condition. One we bought is 09 75K in metallic grey with only body defect being minor light scrape on rear bumper corner, paid 1,400 . Getting right engine at right price is hard bit, could by 3 or 4 of the foresters as few dead ones about and costly fix unless can do a swap yourself .

Don't bother, part of issue is the short block as they flex around main bearings and that helps the early crank versions fail . They done about 3 crank and possibly 4 short block revisions and you best looking into fitting a better revision engine to your fozzy . We actually got one in to do as above, purchased with same old crank failure (they worthless once busted which was nice for me buying but a killer for owners) :-/ and will be sourcing a used ee20 to get it back running in the new year .

^ job jobbed . good to hear ...

23yr old and a jdm import turbo, insurance companies going love giving you quotes lol. enjoy the car and take of it ...

Yeh it a cat1 alarm feature. you can not turn it off but once you realise that use fob button with ignition key turned it no bother at all . pdf manual link below > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-SUBARU-1-BUTTON-REMOTE-KEY-FOB-used-condition/222732134547 second thing want do is keep eye on single button subaru keyfob and swap the board and any other better parts onto your keyfob then you have proper working keyfob and a spare remote fob all for little expense. refer to other post you done on fob issues for the pdf on fob programing ...

Yeh but on the EE20 the gamble seems a little higher, 2008 to 2009 seem worse and amount I seen with engine failure, clutch failure and awkward deal with injector learning issues, dead and seized heat plugs or dpf regen issues is quite alarming. within 100miles of me I could probably pick up 3 used forester diesel non runners by saturday midday (seen 2 advertised for last 6 weeks). They almost as bad as a french car lol . euro 5 onwards things improve, 2011 is major step forward for ee20 but still not subarus usual bullet proof engineering . Just go into a subaru diesel purchase eyes wide open and buying best you can with at least 2 test drives and diagnostic reading of regen counter, dealer record check etc and for realistic money .

it's much better proposition than a 2008-2009 but still risks of highly expensive problems. They are great cars and interesting diesel drive but if can't handle a potential big bill maybe reconsider . A lot also depends on how great a deal your 2011 is to start with, between EE20 phobia from known problem areas and government harassment of diesels the price needs reflect it .

by gen 5 engines they had at least 3 crankshaft revisions and about same for short blocks, part of problem actually is the block flex at main bearing points stressing crank . Is a lot to go wrong on the EE20 diesels not just cank failure, clutch/dmf, diesel injector issues and heater plugs, DPF issues . Only consider a diesel if doing lot of long mileage journeys and get reasonable saving per annum on the fuel. Anything in between and petrol Ej20 engines pay you back over diesel in no hassle low maintenance and faithful sweet running .

Do a compression check old school with gauge or quick test via relative comp test with a scope, possibly low compression (low contribution from cylinder 1) .

It not sigma, it central locking only 2 button fob and security is skim key chip immobiliser (skim key transponder chip also in key fob housing but separate to pcb board) Easy enough fit a used or new fob pcb and program it to the Fozzy (instructions as above) as long as Fozzy side of it working right, most times it is indeed fob that faulty, cracked board, buttons broken etc etc .

yes, should be able get used and new, I got the 2 key fobs new as always keep few spare remotes for quick customer fix .