Mr B

Good luck and don't rush it, plenty very tidy outbacks out there if don't rush it. happy hunting ....

2.5 head gaskets tend get all of them eventually it just matter of time some quicker than others, not end of the world but something look at when buying and have some funds backup just in case . I prefer extra ride height in outback, better view and better clearance in general b road ditches and town curbs etc . I would try view 4 or 5 local even if above your price if local dealer just get feel and experience on the car model and if dead set on 2.5 stick with viewing that engine model only . plenty good legacy/outbacks out there and they generally good priced as not much demand once winter over, probably be month or 2 before used market picks up due to xmas/ny .

best way really, car oem satnav more hassle than benefit lot of the time .

navigation (satnav)

Most run 95 on 3.0, not a massive difference in fuel economy but other gearbox specs of models may sway your opinion . 2.5 not subarus best, the 3.0 is proper decent . both 2.5 and 3.0 is pretty cheap on used market and lot of clean proper nice ones about, we never struggle find outbacks, foresters are harder find proper nice If found either engine model superb order you'd be silly give it a miss, no newer late 2005 best bet and saves you £215 each year to put towards fuel . 3.0 saves cambelt cost and potential head gastet issue of the 2.5 estimate your mileage and costs and decide what best for you . test drive both even ones at local traders you may not want buy as gives experience and easier judge good/bad more you see/test .

3.0 is chain , 2.5 is belt get a 3.0 as way better engine and reliability. keeping to a 2005 saves money too as from 06 road tax goes up £215 yearly so keeping in 2005 lower bracket saves good amount of cash . prices are cheap for what can get if make effort and not bad time of year to start looking, be fussy and wait for a good one .

Strut hub and lower arms cheap enough and easier source than bodywork so as long no chassis damage and mount points straight it be pretty easy sort with bit of luck and patience sort right parts at right prices .

don't think I would contemplate a 2008 legacy conversion unless personal project as simply be silly man hours sort out all the problems of that swap. repair of forester probably wiser and used parts if mainly bolt on parts makes some of these right-offs fixed for couple hundred quid. we picked up a SF forester that super tidy besides clipped hedge driver side and all needed was a wing lights and bumper plus driver mirror, was pretty easy get panels right colour too and no painting makes it easy and cheap plus factory quality end result . XT foresters are pretty cheap and not hard find decent, early legacy diesels cheap too as no one wants risk the early ee20 hassles . 2.5 and 3.0 Lecacy/outbacks super cheap too even for super nice examples so can't see it being cost effective concept . review your forester and see if potential easy repair and overall worth the effort . If not look at simpler ways use it or it's parts either from selling or better matched grafting .

that lucky, didn't look at location. good luck ... maybe can sell rear bushes if good from sti arms or keep as spares, might sell for 30-£35 pair

Heres some alloy arms on ebay ... £70 offer maybe ! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Alloy-Lower-Arms-Pair-Newage-Wishbones-Bugeye-Blobeye/282767876847

They easy fit so any half decent mechanic do that easy and quick . I would do lower balljoints and swaybar droplinks at same time if funds allow and assuming none already close to new or A1 (not expensive if you source parts ebay) thread on hear about good brand parts .

sorry here your first one lost to car cancer, sg can suffer that in inner rear turrets right at top sides and front lower edge sill end cap. subframes too but bit of waxoil on subframes and suspension points/chassis legs at rear works wonders. Older sf more solid built but harder find good ones these days. hope you get off to good start ..

Yes, all manufacturers should be implementing it as obd2 accessible at the least so owners can operate a tyre change/rotation (for position logged systems) or MOT prep car without ballache tpms long term more ballache than help for basic motorist use, would of been way better implement reluctor sensors in abs data to observe rotational speeds under set parameters of steering angle etc to monitor low pressure via relative rotational speed and leave tpms for haulage vehicles etc .

tpms should be standardised and accessible via obd2 for easy data reading/programming . amazed subaru never set it up so could have 2 sets of sensors programmed. you can clone sensors which long term best method.

Sounds like misfire warning to me as repeat issue would have the money light on always, check ignition leads, plugs and coil pack and replace leads/plugs if old or suspect issue found . knock sensor is another one for intermittent blinking money light on subarus .

pretty easy fit on the fozzy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Towbar-for-Subaru-Forester-1997-to-2001-SF-Flange-Tow-Trust-TS855-SUV/152309095064 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50MM-TOW-BALL-EU-APPROVED-MP79-TOWBAR-BAR-TOWING-MAYPOLE/321701143219 universal 7 pin plug and cable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12N-PRE-WIRED-7-PIN-SOCKET-DP/132243603330 may want mod bracket to fit off the hitch plate and more under bumper on tow bracket .

the trusty forester made it home then steve .

Yes that not a big issue, get it fixed once back . Probably heater element in O2 sensor pre cat failed or wiring/connector at sensor . You have pre cat and post cat sensors which monitor cat function and engine fine control fueling (fuel injection)

+1 on this, rolling circumference needs be closely matched or you can get transmission noise at best or serious damage at worse, differing tyres also gives differing grip which can unbalance cars handling . Probably have at least 3 cars a week that get tyre issues mentioned on job sheet as a serious concern and maybe 1 a month that issue of noise or transmission binding down to mismatched tyres in make model wear pressures etc . Hankook do some top class tyres but not broadest covering . Falken should be fine . Bridgestones one of worst for age cracking .

Straight from the mother land and you can still smell the plastic injection mould release > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-in-1-Car-Air-Conditioning-Fuel-Line-Disconnect-Repair-Tool-Set/401454448753 5/16 should do it, buy 2 sets it that cheap You can use couple right angle mechanics picks or similar and use one each side of the notch on plastic sleeve but proper tool better as if you bust these fittings it ballache, gently gently . These fittings will be nightmare once aged brittle and abused by many machanics poking it :-S What was wrong with old way of doing fuel lines ! lol

Heated seats are a must lol . For slight misfire you could review leads and plugs .plug leads on subaru do play up due to way they route/hang and decent replacement set only £20 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VE522141-Ignition-Lead-Set-fits-SUBARU/400913185728 (check part with seller via reg before buy anything) Plugs could be checked/reset gap or replaced with likes of Denso K20TT,4709 . Subaru leads and especially plugs get missed off service quite a lot, not expensive parts and if leads look old a very good service step anyway and reduces potential future issues . Plugs don't get checked much as lot of owners or garages without much experience in the boxer engine leave them as look awkward to do but they not .

To be honest 06 subaru no real ballache for battery removal the old fashioned way same as your landy . Main reason we use memory saver is speed and aftermarket radios and alarms as keeps customer happier than turning up and needing a radio code and tweak lost settings etc . Do get odd times when electronics like body control ecu, alarm modules can go bad with power cut during a swap, Peugeot use to be real bad for that and need mudule flashing after power drains and jump starting as firmware became corrupted but fortunately we don't work on them if can help it and jap electronics way better than french and german :-) Main reason on leaving car door open or window down is as precaution not lock yourself out if alarm on repower locks car and keys left in car :-S Has happened to me so I have this working practise to save any drama .

Couple options 1 unlock car with remote, open drivers door and leave open or at least leave window fully down, open bonnet and remove battery . be ready with remote if alarm does go off on reconnection of battery. 2 do as above but make your own battery memory saver, I do this and simplest method for quick battery swap is a 9v battery with 2 long cables with 9v battery clip and crock clips on ends, clip them securely to + & - car battery cables then remove battery leads, power from the 9V will keep everything alive as long as don't nock lead off, can do same thing with cigarette lighter adaptor . I used a rechargable 9v for years when doing battery swaps as saves time with clocks and hassle with radios etc . * Other tip is be sure have your 4pin alarm code tested and working before do anything as PITA plus expensive if remotes fail or loose programming and you got no pin code. If you don't have a code you can program a new one as long as have a working remote .

^ Diesel is not injected into the oil, during dpf regen extra diesel injections happen during exhaust stroke and diesel is burning in the dpf to heat it up and shift the soot . certain amount of this diesel makes it way past rings more than normal and thus into the oil diluting it. some will evaporate in time with engine running. Dilution % is purely mathematical equation by ecu logic . Quality oil and filters and regular changes are a must on modern diesels . I think diesel additives (cetane increase and cleaning) are important on modern diesels as is decent fuel to start with. I like the millers diesel additive . Modern diesels are an economical and environmental joke, maintenance and reliability are high due to complex design all caused by emissions/DPF which besides collecting soot and spitting it out on the motorway does nothing but reduce potential fuel efficiency and increase long term pollution by increasing service and component material consumption on top of burning more fuel due to back pressure of exhaust and regen cycles . engineering and environment madness :-(

more likely 25mpg slugging about town but the auto and wrong driving style = poor mpg figures . on longer runs 35+ is easy but getting 28/29 short trips is about best can expect if trying and ideally with a manual box .