Mr B

^ That would be my hunch from his comments and experience but assume nothing and test everything . We would diagnose that in 10 to 20 minutes unless something more odd with immobiliser or ignition switch needing more testing pinpoint part and repair options . Do get odd one with simple battery terminal issue, had one before xmas where lady had ordered a battery online and fitted it herself, she hadn't loosened clamps off enough to fit fully down on new terminals and not done them very tight, wiggling them could see was loose and pushing down on them cured the intermittent no crank issue lol . easy fix with a 10mm spanner . Charged her hour and half labour and recon starter :-D no i didn't, only joking lol . Plenty starter motor option used or recon and easy fit so no big deal if that the issue .

It a 12yr old starter and if done lot of short trips it had more use than a car with 120k on it. Sounds likely mechanical solenoid issue to me BUT always check power and grounds, we do this with voltage drop test with a dmm having tested battery charge state/drop test, also use infra red heat gun these days too and see temps at cable joins as shows a high resistance connection in seconds without getting fingers dirty. You also want check the ignition 12v trigger signal to starter solenoid as if ignition switch related or immobilizer related that 12v feed will be 0v . If the ignition trigger is 12v and getting to the solenoid and wiring to starter and voltage good (you can use jump leads as temporary leads/earths as a test procedure) then starter needs pulling and bench test and repair/replace .

I would say about 3,500 about best you get private and even that may take a while . always best try little more as you can come down in price but not up . I picked up odd 04-05 XT as low as 2K privately in super tidy order under 100K . 2.5 not most popular due to HG issues, TGV and EGR valve issues and most people prefer a 2005 for road tax reasons . eBay is big seller for cars, even those using autotrader also be looking at eBay too . Do very good pictures (not with car still wet from a wash) and be super honest in description and things should be pretty simple once get a viewer . selling cars is just luck in having people interested close enough to your location . Good luck .

sounds likely an issue to me. at over 12K now engine should of bedded in so no real excuse for oil consumption and smoke ... I would act on that pretty quickly and don't get white washed with excuses, and if possible do a vid of smoke and make record of oil volume lost in mileage covered and see where it takes you with subaru dealer .

with only 1mm between part data and your measuring I would put money being they right, coming direct from dealer even more likely it right .

pretty poor experience with your 2 garages work, just shooting parts at it based on hunches rather than proper diagnosis :-/ Expensive way fix what probably really only 1/3 of the total bill if someone competent had been involved, shame the customer don't have more rights on poor diagnosis work as would get rid of a lot of the not so good garages pretty quick .

Sending yours in for refurb by bigred is about most cost effective approach, they generally very well priced and do good work . We don't do caliper rebuilds too often as refurb cost generally better and a warranty/liability to fall on . Small issue of piston seal or slides we may do if individual parts cheap or after something specific like stainless piston fitting and caliper in general pretty clean to warrant effort, rear calipers with handbrake system issues generally always best getting full refurb .

breakers or ebay cheapest route . it basically sigma alarm so same style sigma fob branded sigma will do you . do come up cheapish new at times on ebay, had them under £25 at times . be sure you know your 4 digit alarm pin, if not sort it asap and while you have a working remote . plenty threads with m30 alarm manual and on resetting pin code if needed ...

Prices can be pretty low on these as not that popular on used market so don't be shy in making offers and put your initial offer few hundred below your ideal price so can haggle up a bit . Wouldn't pay too much of a premium for lower mileage on diesel, longer runs seem keep them more trouble free . try and view/test drive at least 3 before buying anything as will give you feel for the vehicle and a better idea of good price and potential faults through comparison . Here's another that may interest you, my favourite colour on this model forester, would want pay less than asking but how much less really depends on how crisp and clean it is and how much spent on servicing upkeep, thus you got see it to put a value on it . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-0D-XC-2011/122923177805 anything you look at low ball it with sensible offer and more so if simple cash sale. wouldn't be too concerned with dealer warranty as most of them useless at sorting subaru diesel running faults, main dealer could be bit better but I wouldn't pay a premium for dealer warranty as it simply a waste of money . Don't rush into it and be sure inspect and test drive thoroughly . Lot of what ends up in dealer yards is polished junk so be careful .

Main pointers if going for diesel is indeed 2011 going be better option than 2008 to 2010 . only good thing with 2008 was it pre dpf which nice, the crank issue is pretty serious and likely cost you more than the car value . DPF is an awful concept which in long term creates more waste and lowers potential mpg of modern diesels and complete waste of engineering and production effort and one reason I against modern emissions on diesels . Be sure test drive vehicle minimum of twice and combination of b roads and dual carriageways, be sure clutch feels spot on as these expensive and known be bit problematic (DMF, dual mass flywheel) Make sure engine runs smooth and no odd knocking or rattling hot or cold . Be very particular (ignore any seller bluff) and any doubts walk away as problems on these can be super expensive and almost like a french peugeot in likeness to some issues not fixable as ecu firmware or oem part related with no revisions available .

If fuelling I would expect more symptoms at wider throttle range and even higher rpm when fuelling really being pushed. I would be looking at oxygen sensor on that bank, ideally want graph the sensors and monitor the fuel trims and see how the oxygen sensor behaves I would probably plum in a fuel pressure gauge just to see pressure in spec and regular while monitoring sensor data . Not unusual see oxygen sensor issue or wiring issue, lots of other things can be so don't guess and throw parts at it, take time and test .

they will need a smoke machine but any half decent garage doing diagnostic work not guessing will have one . I would expect see faults if evap but not always and as really need pinpoint leak due to costs involved if wrong a smoke test would be way forward on gas leak regardless and hopefully conclude the issue within an hours labour I would of thought . no idea on recommendation in your area but sure someone on here may ...

Get someone who knows how test it have a look, guessing after looking at obvious visually is useless on gas leaks. Smoke test it and test the evap fully too .

A knocking noise similar big end on the diesels is normally due to injector fuelling, testing and calibration or ecu updates can help resolve it in many cases. Some are worse cold but narmally still present when hot . It certainly not likely internal mechanical issue .

lot of knocking and rattling all do with ecu map and calibration of injectors and sometimes heater plug and injector faults too . Early diesels 2008/2009 worse for the crank failure, 2010 still do it but had block and crank revisions by then that made big improvement . Why most people worry is fact injector, heater plug, crank and also dpf issues all very expensive and a painful diagnostic process . We done a few diesel engine swaps now, I could buy 2 or 3 2008 to 2010 engine/running fault diesels a month trade if wanted as that many about. Good one is great car but get a bad one and financial hit is high and it major kick for some buyers who went into the purchase on subarus pre diesel reputation .

quick swap of non working coil to working coil bank will diagnose if coil or wiring. Does seem bit unlikely have 2 dead coils after fitting belt but if had removed them and plugs during your working session or knocked wiring then more possible. I've pulled a few coil on plug packs and had them not working on refitting as extra movement finishes off a dying pack, hard one explain customer when comes in without fault :-) pretty common for issues are packs but need verify fault before start shooting parts at it . Had odder scenarios happen lol .

^ surprised not interested as gravy job really . Only few bolts and it all easy up front and if arms right ones some simple new bush fitting should have it job jobbed .

I would check timing followed by sensors/wriing as pretty sure it cutting ignition once reads sensor correlation off .

are you on standard ecu, mapped ecu, aftermarket ecu, piggyback controllers ? was power removed while doing belt service ? I would be triple checking your timing to subaru timing diagram in depth and good visual on timing sensors harnesses etc . If you got the ability review sensor data while cranking .

So you actually check spark and it a crank no spark or you just assuming no spark as not firing .

Is it sparking when cranking ?

possibly if reads sensor correlation off it may set a code and cut ignition/fuel . check codes and check for spark cranking, once done that triple check your timing to workshop diagram and also review sensors and harnesses for damage . Best way fit these belts if not use to marks is mark old one to each pulley and add a C to distinguish crank with marker then count teeth and transfer marks to new belt .

Oe bush fit fine on everyone i ever done bush measures 55mm in length, 38.22 outer diameter and as stated 12mm inner diameter . If that appears correct you can use adl bush (ads78011) or febi bush (29375) or if want polybush use strongflex 271143B febi bilstein bushes are less than £10 each . other option is resize sleeves if enough metal .

HG is the common one and can have odd and sneaky symptoms in early stages. You want rule out basics of water flow from things like thermostat, rad core, water pump rotor etc, cooling system wants pressure testing and chemical test during a hot run . check plug colour, check bottom join of head to block for any signs of leak issue gunge along the join. We get quite a few that pass gas sniff test and chemical test but it the HG and time proves it if nothing else can .

Check the level sensors that has a drop arm attaching to wishbone front and lateral link rear. the drop arms corrode and fall off and sensor itself can have function issues from ingress of moisture is a thread on here I replied to with more technical details . Sometimes these can be a easy diy visual diagnosis & homemade fix and sometimes will need parts or have something harder diagnose .