Mr B

If fuelling I would expect more symptoms at wider throttle range and even higher rpm when fuelling really being pushed. I would be looking at oxygen sensor on that bank, ideally want graph the sensors and monitor the fuel trims and see how the oxygen sensor behaves I would probably plum in a fuel pressure gauge just to see pressure in spec and regular while monitoring sensor data . Not unusual see oxygen sensor issue or wiring issue, lots of other things can be so don't guess and throw parts at it, take time and test .

they will need a smoke machine but any half decent garage doing diagnostic work not guessing will have one . I would expect see faults if evap but not always and as really need pinpoint leak due to costs involved if wrong a smoke test would be way forward on gas leak regardless and hopefully conclude the issue within an hours labour I would of thought . no idea on recommendation in your area but sure someone on here may ...

Get someone who knows how test it have a look, guessing after looking at obvious visually is useless on gas leaks. Smoke test it and test the evap fully too .

A knocking noise similar big end on the diesels is normally due to injector fuelling, testing and calibration or ecu updates can help resolve it in many cases. Some are worse cold but narmally still present when hot . It certainly not likely internal mechanical issue .

lot of knocking and rattling all do with ecu map and calibration of injectors and sometimes heater plug and injector faults too . Early diesels 2008/2009 worse for the crank failure, 2010 still do it but had block and crank revisions by then that made big improvement . Why most people worry is fact injector, heater plug, crank and also dpf issues all very expensive and a painful diagnostic process . We done a few diesel engine swaps now, I could buy 2 or 3 2008 to 2010 engine/running fault diesels a month trade if wanted as that many about. Good one is great car but get a bad one and financial hit is high and it major kick for some buyers who went into the purchase on subarus pre diesel reputation .

quick swap of non working coil to working coil bank will diagnose if coil or wiring. Does seem bit unlikely have 2 dead coils after fitting belt but if had removed them and plugs during your working session or knocked wiring then more possible. I've pulled a few coil on plug packs and had them not working on refitting as extra movement finishes off a dying pack, hard one explain customer when comes in without fault :-) pretty common for issues are packs but need verify fault before start shooting parts at it . Had odder scenarios happen lol .

^ surprised not interested as gravy job really . Only few bolts and it all easy up front and if arms right ones some simple new bush fitting should have it job jobbed .

I would check timing followed by sensors/wriing as pretty sure it cutting ignition once reads sensor correlation off .

are you on standard ecu, mapped ecu, aftermarket ecu, piggyback controllers ? was power removed while doing belt service ? I would be triple checking your timing to subaru timing diagram in depth and good visual on timing sensors harnesses etc . If you got the ability review sensor data while cranking .

So you actually check spark and it a crank no spark or you just assuming no spark as not firing .

Is it sparking when cranking ?

possibly if reads sensor correlation off it may set a code and cut ignition/fuel . check codes and check for spark cranking, once done that triple check your timing to workshop diagram and also review sensors and harnesses for damage . Best way fit these belts if not use to marks is mark old one to each pulley and add a C to distinguish crank with marker then count teeth and transfer marks to new belt .

Oe bush fit fine on everyone i ever done bush measures 55mm in length, 38.22 outer diameter and as stated 12mm inner diameter . If that appears correct you can use adl bush (ads78011) or febi bush (29375) or if want polybush use strongflex 271143B febi bilstein bushes are less than £10 each . other option is resize sleeves if enough metal .

HG is the common one and can have odd and sneaky symptoms in early stages. You want rule out basics of water flow from things like thermostat, rad core, water pump rotor etc, cooling system wants pressure testing and chemical test during a hot run . check plug colour, check bottom join of head to block for any signs of leak issue gunge along the join. We get quite a few that pass gas sniff test and chemical test but it the HG and time proves it if nothing else can .

Check the level sensors that has a drop arm attaching to wishbone front and lateral link rear. the drop arms corrode and fall off and sensor itself can have function issues from ingress of moisture is a thread on here I replied to with more technical details . Sometimes these can be a easy diy visual diagnosis & homemade fix and sometimes will need parts or have something harder diagnose .

Use kyb struts and suplex springs and it cost about £210 use kyb springs and it about £260 kyb struts http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-SUBARU-FORESTER-97-02-Protection-KIT-KYB-334191-334192/182324780533 kyb springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-KYB-K-Flex-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-RA5761/191483547263 suplex springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032034-/141542632909 Easy job if drop link bolts not rusted mess and brake lines separate and reusable . Will make huge difference to ride and handling as yours totally collapsed . looks tidy for a 98, have fun with your classic station wagon ...

get a koyo japan bearing kit and nothing else, koyo oem bearing supplier, they under £50 for rear bearing kit (check rear axle type (probably R160) to get right bearing) We only use koyo and have pretty much unheard of wheel bearing comebacks, cheaper stuff like optimal and even skf no way close the quality of koyo japan . Can be fitted in an hour easily if have a hub bearing replacement tool kit as do it on car with less dismantling, the long hub bolt through the lateral links is only thing that can be trouble if rusted real bad Worth giving that good dose of wd40 daily for 2 or 3 days prior to getting job done if looks crusty . even with bit of bother with this hub bolt you looking at 1.5hrs to 2hrs absolute max .

Is a p1ss poor design and accessory situation by subaru though . with amount of subarus that have towing hardware you think they wouldn't of overlooked this ! If you wanted a hitch backplate you would be in trouble, plus lot of amateur towers going be buying a few fog lenses lol ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-BUGEYE-2-0-OFFSIDE-FRONT-SUSPENSION-LOWER-WISHBONE-ARM-00-03/292388342626 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-BUGEYE-2-0-NEARSIDE-FRONT-SUSPENSION-LOWER-WISHBONE-ARM-00-03/302582845326 see if do bit better price as shipping together, also may need the cones that sit inside the alloy arms if not with it (about £25 for 2 of them)

Good luck and don't rush it, plenty very tidy outbacks out there if don't rush it. happy hunting ....

2.5 head gaskets tend get all of them eventually it just matter of time some quicker than others, not end of the world but something look at when buying and have some funds backup just in case . I prefer extra ride height in outback, better view and better clearance in general b road ditches and town curbs etc . I would try view 4 or 5 local even if above your price if local dealer just get feel and experience on the car model and if dead set on 2.5 stick with viewing that engine model only . plenty good legacy/outbacks out there and they generally good priced as not much demand once winter over, probably be month or 2 before used market picks up due to xmas/ny .

best way really, car oem satnav more hassle than benefit lot of the time .

navigation (satnav)

Most run 95 on 3.0, not a massive difference in fuel economy but other gearbox specs of models may sway your opinion . 2.5 not subarus best, the 3.0 is proper decent . both 2.5 and 3.0 is pretty cheap on used market and lot of clean proper nice ones about, we never struggle find outbacks, foresters are harder find proper nice If found either engine model superb order you'd be silly give it a miss, no newer late 2005 best bet and saves you £215 each year to put towards fuel . 3.0 saves cambelt cost and potential head gastet issue of the 2.5 estimate your mileage and costs and decide what best for you . test drive both even ones at local traders you may not want buy as gives experience and easier judge good/bad more you see/test .

3.0 is chain , 2.5 is belt get a 3.0 as way better engine and reliability. keeping to a 2005 saves money too as from 06 road tax goes up £215 yearly so keeping in 2005 lower bracket saves good amount of cash . prices are cheap for what can get if make effort and not bad time of year to start looking, be fussy and wait for a good one .