Mr B

Is it a main dealer or just a used car dealer ? Things that need clarifying calmly with dealer/garage is : If this radio has worked at some point in your ownership then it was paired/programmed so that not the root cause . Have/can they confirm the head unit serial matches what stored in the security module . any other codes present when they scan system that could hint a communication issue between the cars modules . any other odd occurrences with any of the electrical systems . What is their next step in resolving the problem (good thing is problem constant and they clearly see the problem which far better than intermittent faults) If you dealing with a main dealer and they getting nowhere they either need try another known good head unit or get another dealer/garage with more experienced tech have a look .

they will know how program a radio unit serial into the security module via ssm subaru select monitor no doubt about it, I would assume issue more puzzling hence the lack of clarity and time . could have communication issue on the can bus line or issue with the radio unit . First thing I try on these after basic scan see modules are talking to each other and noting any codes is disconnect battery for an hour then reconnect and turn ignition to acc and see what radio does, does it boot up fully, if does turn key off and remove then reinsert and go to acc again and wait radio reboot and if reboots and works then start car and see if security flags again .

Your best bet on springs if carrying loaded weight and towing is custom set from springcoil.co.uk . They got lot of experience on rears for the SG and would give you good advise and solutions to your needs, they do increased rates, progressive springs and can adjust base height a little like for example raise rear 10mm help compensate for some load, that probably £60 more than the KYB spring set but can be wise thing do for those using vehicle loaded/towing . Ride should be quite good as you gain fair bit of improvement from new excel g's over half dead oems . All ones I done been nice ride, even XT models on kyb and springcoil full spring kits front and rear . on a side note If you need new bump stops and protection boots kyb do rear kit (2boots, 2 bump stops) for less than £20

Yeh it affordable and better than peddars units imo and expect struggle find a used set for the sg . good luck ...

You can buy new kyb excel G shocks and springs for around £185 shocks are £53 on ebay (cheaper than on my trade account), springs about £76 if google the part number . Right Absorber KYB 334344 Left Absorber KYB 334345 Coilover Springs KYB RC6431

if you got air then proper long barrel is a game changer, makes the impossible not only possible but quick & easy and less damaging over clumping stuff with large lump hammer ect ... facom nano impact and air hammer 2 tools i couldn't be without, pretty cheap too both under £100, facom was at £99, decent air hammer start around £80 ...

Trick on these is a long barrel air hammer . Take all bolts out and try get it rotate a little using bolt hole ears for hammering . Once moves a little swap to a chisel bit in the air hammer to work it out . They can be a right c0(k without the air hammer .

I assume the menu function allows different pressures and different sensors be selected so can sap to a winter tyre set for example . No real reset or programming available without plugin equipment .

Not exactly a diy reset, system status resets based on ecu logic of values correct from sensors while vehicle in motion (sensors awake) . If no faults and pressures correct then system should correct status after a drive cycle, if not tpms sensor could be faulty or system itself and scan tool with tpms or dedicated tpms tool needed go further (tpms sensors are coded to control module) . Some no special tool tricks to overcome some faults are deflate and reflate tyre to help a sticky sensor, disconnect car battery and see if tpms status stays off .

Assume it the sigma alarm . Does key start car if turn off alarm with spare key (keep spare key away from ignition switch when test this). If does start the skim key chip fine and it purely issue with the remote board in the key head or like you thinking it lost programming . You can attempt reprogramming yourself but first thing is make sure you have a working manual pin code and if not set a new 4 pin code first before trying reprogram keys *reason do this is so got way access alarm if cocked up programming * If you search on here for sigma key fob programming you find instructions from myself and others . Also worth having close look at keyfob as button switch often breaks off the circuit board, is online repair services or buy a used keyfob off eBay and swap it to yours and program it to your alarm .

Is a lot of kits remove broken plugs but don't always work well unless plug cooperates in way broken or during removal work steps . Best way is taking lot of time to not break them and using low power impact as vibrations can help loosen stuck plug without twisting head off . I would go down and get full details from garage and ask what kit they got for broken removal and what technique used remove them (ie: did they try engine hot/cold. did they try light impact tool, did they soak with release agent overnight ect) . Is lot of labour time when goes bad unfortunately but if this a learning experience for your garage you don't want be paying the full 1500 .

Not usual but possible in worse case scenario. I would assume your garage got little experience or kit for removing broken heater plug thus made bigger job of it. Are the stripping engine further or planning drill/pull it out . ceramic antiseize paste and lower end of torque can help for future but best bet is make it a service item - removal and refit every 2yrs and replace after 4 or 6yrs .

Import your best option, chances of anything restorable UK very unlikely and most stuff more rot than shell plus likely need many parts almost impossible source .

I would consider the eyesight system good reason not to buy one, too invasive and makes drivers less aware than already are as start to rely on prompts from the system. Other big issue with these systems is faults will be expensive diagnose/fix and potentially dangerous .

If you want be stingy at least inspect each idler gear and the tensioner when strip it and buy what only needed, one that more likely usable is tensioner but the plain idlers and toothed normally have some play or dryness or both. Water pump wants checking too but rare these really need replacing at 90K for a NA road car . I know many insist tensioner must be replaced but actual Subaru guidelines is testing it in spec, obviously if bearing rough or it leaking oil on hydraulic tensioner or it fail the load testing (see SFSM) then needs replacing. With timing belts you almost better off not doing it if not going do it well as bad decisions and work = potential scrap . Dayco belt and japan oem idlers from ICP not that expensive . Whatever you do DO NOT use cheaper sourced parts as that worse than running with old oem .

Window motors are common on these, that about £30 used motor and an hour to fit by someone knows how do them the easy way . Certainly not a fuse lol, can be 100% sure it motor with test light at motor wiring plug, want use a 5amp draw so know wiring ntergrity good, multi meter not good really as can show good but wiring corrosion ect could stop actual working current so need test circuit under load for proper verification. You can also add a drain hole in the motor housing on lowest point near the motor spindle bearing on the replacement and replenish some grease/ lube slide rails which helps lengthen life . £400 cheap but check rear inner arches, subframe and trailing link body mounts THOROUGHLY as can rust bad on these and pricey repairs . Saggy rear suspension also common and caused buy failed sls struts but new kyb struts and springs pretty cheap .

I think you need get better idea of what been done and expected faults before making decisions.

turbo seals gone and taking oil into intake and burning it perhaps ? what seals been done ? what not pressurising ? If just loosing oil it pretty easy conclude where and why .

What reason it being looked at and what tests been done One would assume it overheating. Heads don't exactly go porous, you could have failed head gasket or you could have cracked head or even crack block and exactly what usable or not will not be known unless heads pulled off.Your real negative is fact it close to 160K so unless already had some work done a rebuild probably wiser than just refreshing heads and gaskets . I think used engine could be good option, it all really depends on exactly how good your engine is bottom end and what exactly wrong with heads as simply cleaniing them up and skimming not a big deal, although at 160K doubt they going be great serviceable condition

plug it in and off you go, be sure either use the subaru spare plug harness for wiring either with correct plug for simple plug in install or wire it in with epoxy sleeved crimps or solder and epoxy lined heat shrink . Amount I get in done by trailer hitch installers that use quick and cheesy line splice piercing connectors that a total sin to the trade is shocking, and they splice them all over the rear harness making right mess and future area of electric fault hassle (hence why they in my bay as tracking down light faults that caused MOT fail normally :-) good for me but nt good for owners so be sure installer wires only to auxilary harness tail already built in for hitch wiring ) .

Inspect the damage, impact is always stone and very obvious if is . Unfortunately every part of a modern car is low quality and minimal material needed . Spend a tenth the cost of a new Forester on an old one if you want a good car.All modern cars regardless of brand much the same, new cars are complete waste of money and massive impact on environment, nothing green about them beside the profit 😉

One of my forester SF models is 28 years old, done 238K and only advisory is chipped windscreen, aircon works fine, everything works fine and condition is superb due to quality paints and trim used. We service a few legacy models and foresters over 300K, don't do many aircon parts on older models, don't do many silly repairs on any older models generally .New stuff is noticable big decline in quality, people really need stop buying the junk . Breaks my heart see what government scrapped in cash in car schemes, really good for environment is all this short lifespan high maintenance modern stuff ! Tell you what it is good for, making money, we do well fixing them and manufacturers doing well on markup as component cost at oem level is dirt cheap for quality they using today . sad modern world we live in unfortunately 😞

Reality is if you want a good car buy an old one, new cars are junk regardless of brand, all the engineering skill and investment is in making everything minimal cost, just about good enough do the job . A forester from 1999 likely do 300K plus without much major drama and with rust protection or some welding quite easily could last 40 years . A new forester and most new cars not capable of a quarter of that lifespan . I work on this stuff day in day out and compare simple things like window motors and suspension bushes is night and day from 2 decades ago . nothing made to last and half of it not fit for purpose, it designed purely for minimal costing in materials and manufacture process .

Would help diagnosis if new if ecu actually triggered those codes thus lights or if just goofy plug/wiring error in your dash assembly causing lights come on. I suspect harness plug seating issue and side effect is these warning clusters acting as earth route perhaps . As you done the repair only you have full insight to areas of potential damage physical or from water that might of occurred .

Yes but not very well. I had a customer who done a sg with the oem links from early subarus same as whiteline and they align at poor angle plus length differs so swaybar max/min travel positions differ ...Customers sg went back to ball jointed ...