4758nigel

i've managed to get the sensor out but there's a slight crack in the mounting hole in the oil pump would the JB Weld Epoxy be strong/safe enough to repair that until i can get a new oil pump?

just a quick update I've managed to get the middle of the sensor out but unfortunately it's left the metal sleeve behind so I now have to try and get that out and I have no idea how to do it without damaging the slot where the sensor goes

Hi all the latest issues with my Impreza (after having replaced MAF sensor,spark plugs, ICV,boost pipe and the knock sensor) it started throwing up the crankshaft position sensor which upon further inspection allowed me to discover the my air con belt had shredded cos the nut on the tensioner had come off an had allowed the pulley to rub on the cam belt cover aswell as the belt itself I am planning on replacing the cam belt (full kit including the water pump etc) but this morning it was an absolute !Removed! to start I have another csp sensor so figured I'd replace this and hopefully help it start easier now the problem I've got is that the csp sensor has just snapped off inside the engine so I have the plastic part but not the metal part I have absolutely no idea how to get it out and was hoping someone on here could give me some advice as to how to get it out as I need to be able to use the car for school runs etc(short journeys) Any help would be greatly appreciated Tia Nigel

it's kind of "judders" when i'm accelerating almost like it's hesitating to allow boost or something then all of a sudden it just hits boost full pelt and throws you back in the seat but only when the MAF sensor is plugged in otherwise there is no boost allowed at all hardly due to limp mode/fuel cut also it's burning ALOT more fuel now too (min £10 per day with not many miles for it)

Yes I have got the smaller vac hose connected to the recirc valve

I'm currently still using the recirc valve with the bung still in the "bigger" pipe as I put it on and was still the same so figured I'd just leave it on and try and eliminate the problem in case the DV was an adding factor to the problem I am however starting to think that I'm gonna need new spark plugs ASAP as my idle (with maf connected) is at around 100rpm (no not a typo

probably a dumb question but have to had a look at the spark plugs as one or more of them may well have gone bad does the car "pop" (well more regularly than normal) as this can be a good sign that the plugs are knackered or on their way out. i'm no professional but thought it might a simple thing that is reasonably easy to look at/ sort. or it could quite well be over/underboosting

i don't have a recirc for my engine only got one like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Recirc-Valve-Genuine-Factory-Newage-01-07-/331559639507?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d327e99d3 so i've had to take the big pipe off it to be able to fit it to my TMIC

thought i'd share this coz i've tried taking the vacuum hoses off and checking them for splits etc and have cleaned all 4 of my spark plug with electrical contact cleaner not yet check the loom plugs but wanted to share a video of the idle when i was changing over from the forge DV to the recirc i had the DV connected to the TMIC and the recirc connected to the smaller vacuum hose (still had the bigger hose capped and the car ran fine so not too sure if that points anyone else away from the MAF since i've replaced it already or wether it's still pointing towards an intake problem of some kind also as i change gear you can hear a pop which is also pointing me towards either vacuum leak or dodgy spark plugs (which none looked particularly bad)

i will try looking at the grey loom plugs tomorrow when I've got the washer bottle out to try and clean up the spark plugs. I also wanted to ask what is the best way to test for vacuum leaks as i have no idea where to start as this is my first turbo (that's not either a shogun or Peugeot diesel) and don't really want to start pulling pipes off to check each one separately i have seen a few video's on YouTube of "smoke testing" and one for using soapy water as-well as a guy use carb cleaner but he said that it could result in an engine fire so don't really want to take my chances in all honesty so any advice and if possible pics/video would be great help as i'm a learner by watching and doing rather than reading due to having dyslexia

well it threw up the MAF circuit code again but at least it's only the one error code now which is helpful

hi mate welcome to the club :) good to see more people that are reasonably local feel free to browse the forums lots of useful info on here

I've visually inspected the coil pack as it still has the standard pack (on top of the inlet manifold) and can't see any damage and all seems to be sparking fine

He did suggest unplugging the loom plugs and checking for corrosion I'm gonna give that a go tomorrow after checking to see if it's thrown up anymore codes after clearing them my mate said if I need a knock sensor to try then he has loads spare. As for knowing anyone with another Scooby that's compatible unfortunately I don't as I've got the "crossover" model (from classic to new age) so most people I know either has the classic or new age not the crossover :( Thanks all for your help and advice I will check for codes vacuum leaks and the loom plugs and let you all know :)

hi all further to my previous post i have run the manual code reading and it threw up 22,23 &24 now the problem i am having is lumpy idle which occasionally results in the engine completely cutting out i have replaced the MAF sensor and that did nothing i was told by a mechanic mate of my who is really into subaru's that he doubt's it's the knock sensor as in all the years he has owned subaru's he has never had to replace one not even on customers cars i've reset the code's in the hopes that maybe the problem was that the "stored" codes were causing the issue but it's not made a single bit of difference so i thought i'd check for codes again in case it gave me more of an incite into what the problem was but it's not throwing up ANY codes anymore so have no idea what the hell the problem could be any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance for any help/advice you can offer

My mates got loads of blocks and head etc in his garage what type of block were you looking for and roughly what sort of price range (if you don't mind my asking) and i'll speak to him and see what he say's

i'm not personally from sleaford but if your ever in grantham you may well see me and a few other owners who i have been trying for months to get to join up here, you'll quite often find that other subaru driver's are very friendly they're quite happy to talk about scoobies even with complete strangers especially if that stranger owns a scoob too. I tend to find collaring them at a petrol station with a comment like " nice looking scooby you have there" is quite often enough for the conversation to begin. I'm hoping to go premium on this site and you get stickers for the windows of your scoob so it'll make it easier for me to point them in this sites direction :) hope to see you around at some point ;)

as the title states i'm having issues with my turbo 2000 every time I pull up at the traffic lights ect and dip the clutch (or when it's in neutral and rev'd) the rev's dip to almost nothing and quite often completely cuts out i'm guessing that the MAF sensor is almost if not completely knackered as i have unplugged and the rough idle/stalling is no longer present (apart from the occasional splutter which i believe is my spark plugs needing replacing) so i have a couple of questions: 1: will it do any harm to the engine if i run it without boost (as without MAF connected the "check engine" light comes on and cuts power at around 2500-3000 RPM which i assume it's effectively "limp"mode) 2: is it possible to get a map done to eliminate the need for a MAF sensor completely 3: is it possible that all that it needs rather than replacing the MAF sensor could i clean it and see if that makes any difference also what would i use to clean it i have some cleaner would that be suitable see link for exact cleaner i have http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/lubricating-penetrating-oil/halfords-electrical-contact-cleaner-400ml thanks in advance for any and all input and advice i've had the car since last june and only had it up and "running" for the last few weeks.

i've got... i'm not sure if it's what your looking for or even if it'll fit but thought i'd let you know. if your interested then make me an offer ;)

luckily yes but unfortunately i discovered that one of the springs in the dump valve has snapped so either i need to replace the spring or the entire valve :(

problem has been solved it was a false alarm it turns out that it was the alarm in safety mode as it's the sigma but luckily i had the code for the pad so all is good again now

as others have said air filter box, MAF and snorkle

as stants said if you post a pic of what you are looking for or even a link to the ones you refer to having seen (the ones for £80) then we may be able to help out more.

looks good david... stuck £5 of petrol in the turbo and drove it back and forth on the drive since the insurance doesn't start till tuesday and the MOT isn't booked in till thursday :(

as the title says the time has come for me to finally get the turbo on the road (only had it since last july). but however i have an issue with one or more of the doors not staying unlocked when i use either the fob or the key i have read online that it may be the "door lock remote" but i wanted to come on here and ask you guys what you thought it may be as i have had the most helpful and friendly advice if you need more details let me know and I will try and explain as best as i can thanks in advance 4758nigel