Scoobyghost

That's what I hear too. If anything difference new age is more "luxury". With the models following each other I don't thing there were many differences mechanically. Just cosmetic. In that case mileage is a better guide. Along with all the usual fsh and what not. Number of owners can be used as a guide. There's a reason cars have 10 owners and been passed around within 5 months of ownership

It would need to be mapped to cater for the sports cat.

I'd point at the tyres. I have eagle f1 and don't get very much road noise all the way up to motorway speeds. Or possible wheel bearing starting to whine?

When you're having a remap they will put it on the rollers anyway. Providing they have the facilities. They can do pre map run then. Depends how far away remap is. Also depends on extent of exhaust. If it's decat then best to keep low boost to avoid overboosting. Just centre and rear is reasonably ok if it's a short while. I was advised to either do exhaust or intake but not at the same time before map.

Why do you need to sleeve it?

For a classic, check rear arches for rust. Power steering pumps tend to be a common problem. Clutch check, put it in 3rd low revs and put your foot down to check for slip.

It didn't even give me an option to declare mods.

After seeing this I though I'd give Hastings a check. My renewal isn't until December. I got a quote of over £6100. I pay £660 for the year now. Insurance is a very strange beast.

Ah, I keep forgetting about that. I had a quick look and it seems you have two cats post turbo. One in downpipe and one directly after that.

[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] Don't know what you're talking about. [emoji9] [emoji9] If you don't have one on uppipe the only cat will be in the down pipe. If that's decat then you would fail an emissions test.

How did you pass emmisions with a decat? [emoji15]

Do you know how the cats have failed? Weird how they pass emmisions but are actually fubard.

I'll pm you with some details of mine. Mine when up to temp idles at 800rpm

If you have coolant in it(not just water) you may not see fluid but it should stain pink.

Faulty coolant sensor. Water leak. Cooling fan not working. But if it's been overheating and ran hot for a while the damage and cause of overheating may have changed.

I was using the nose method as an extra. If it's that bad even his nose will pick it up. I should have clarified but I was under the impression Mike knew what a sniff test was.

You can Google "car sniff test" and it will bring up shopping options if you wanted to do it yourself without driving the car. Failing that ask the garage if at all possible someone can come out. If you have aa/rac cover even better. If you have bubbling id certainly recommend a sniff test. Even stick your nose in the overflow and check for exhaust smell.

Do you have any bubbles in the overflow/top up bottle? Also try to get a sniff test done of the coolant as that will pick up if the exhaust is leaking into the coolant.

Ah you went sandwich. I got the T piece for oil pressure which goes in the oe pressure switch hole and allows for the oe sender and gauge sender to be fitted. For temp I went for the bung over cyl#3. I heard the sandwich plates aren't so accurate?

You gotta fit all the sender's though? I had to get an adapter kit(classic impreza) for the oil sensors. Boost/voltage were easy enough.

Exactly the same. That should be fun fitting. I have a 4-1 60mm gauge. Boost needle with oled display showing oil temp/pressure and voltage. I feel a gauge is a must on a modified car. That way you can monitor what the car is saying. Early warning device.

"Couple" [emoji23] What you got there?

It is a risk. If you were local I'd let you borrow mine. A second hand cat may just be up for sale because they owner decatted and be fully working. Anything second hand is risky.

You could try to borrow a cat if you can find one. I still have my cat stored up just in case. Or you could find a friendly mot tester [emoji12]

Welcome to the club. Got any plans for it?