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confusedbrog

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Posts posted by confusedbrog

  1. I've got a lead foot so still getting 20 mpg most of the time but I have had it up to 28 on one sensible trip. I'm not sure how many miles I'm getting to a tank though I've never let it go under a quarter tank yet. Yea its defibetly started to loosen up I've really felt the difference over the last 300 mile

  2. this probably won't get released here or if it does will bear no resemblance to the wrx sti or whatever it's called.

    The jdm gets so many weird and wonderful models. Look at the new impreza s4 for instance, looks ok but only has a daft cvt 'box

    There's a wrx sti type S in Japan as well isn't there? A 2.0l with the same power as our 2.5 sti but more torque and better fuel economy, direct injection and twin scroll turbo. Let's hope they come to their senses and start selling the Japan models worldwide.
  3. I don't think there is a fixed definition it varies from tuning company to company and across model ranges

     

    I have always approached stage 1 as bolt on so filters and exhaust end can

    stage 2 involves bolt on changes that need a remap to get optimum effect so full exhaust and or turbo replacement

    Stage 3 onwards is engine internals - but you can always rebuild an engine with cdb and fully forged / lightened components - still using all the OEM external stuff - so dont know if this is classed as a stage or not?

    I agree with this it seems to vary from tuner to tuner. Scoobyclinic offer a lot of tuning packs and it seems to vary from car to car also.

  4. you didnt no you have to inform dvla if you change a engine in your car  :wacko:

    That's what I'm saying engine number is on the logbook isn't it so dvla have to be informed I wonder if that's the part they are trying to get him on fraud charges for. He could always say he bought it like that and just thought his 1.4 was a bit nippy haha.

    I had a blast in a mates 2.0l turbo nova on a drag strip, it was pushing out around 300 bhp, once it stopped shredding the front tyres in 3rd and got traction it was a rocket, still the fastest thing I've ever drove once it gets off the line!

  5. I personally think that's a bit of marketing BS by the industry. As long a you have a decent brand with decent tread to disperse water it will be fine all year round. Look at the good year eagle f1 as an example it's got a really good wet handling rating and I'm sure it's not gonna end up in a crash the first time you try and take a bend after the temp drops to 6°c. It seems to me like it's only over the last 4 or 5 years that the industry is trying to make us believe we need different tyres at different times of year, if you ask me if you don't live up a mountain it's a load of crap to make you part with your cash.

    Don't mean to sound negative about it so I guess what I'm saying is its worth buying a good brand of tyre that's performed well in group tests as long as it's not too focused on being a fast road leaning towards a track tyre and has good tread and wet grip and decent tyre life

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