Jay762

It doesnt need to cost a grand. The clunk is them drying inside hence the grease. They wont be bouncy as the oil and therefore damping in the main cylinder is not affected. If you are happy with the car as a whole it would be better to fix this and not lose out on a trade in deal

Yay managed it through firefox mobile - gave different set of options including pin placement ☺

Have avoided it so far - what started as an icon in the bar bottom right of screen has now turned into a 2x2 pop up

no worries ;) - had not come across these guys was intrigued - looks like a good site certainly stacks of engine parts

good luck with the sale

Wotcha and welcome - keep a camera handy and if you get stuck just post some photos up and it makes it easier to point you in right direction

Wotcha and welcome - chassis code is the way to go - plus some photos ;)

Got an error with .co.uk?? is it these chaps?? http://www.apiimpreza.com/ looking better - from £1200+ vat for a recon of your engine

Keep us posted as to progress

Wotcha and welcome - check for error codes as well you may have a dodgy sensor. It may well be worth booking a rolling road session to get it investigated and set up correctly

Whilst it is frowned upon there is an option to get it remapped a have a dpf delete completed. Not exactly mot friendly dependant on where you go though. I would try the higher revs in low gear first though has worked for me in past on other diesels. As mentioned this isnt just a Subaru issue its a diesel motor issue so if you changed to another manufacturer but kept a diesel you will get the same result

An option would be to rent a car trailer £30 a day from hire it by me , it all depends on the quote you get - for me and given your experience so far its about peace of mind against any investment. The engine replacement is a great idea again you can rent engine lift etc and get stuck in - obviously you gamble on that unit as well though... keep us posted as to progress

Wotcha and welcome. There is a remap avaliable for your motor from subaru should release a few ponies. After that start looking at the usual - pipe filter fuel pump etc after that turbo but I dont believe you have forged internals as standard so wouldnt push it past 340 on the standard stuff.

Wotcha and welcome Dean - chassis code will help identify model specifics maybe shine some more light on it?

I read this article - you just gotta keep sharp - a lot of these additions by the time you spot them (if you do manage to spot them) you will be right on top of the motor itself - I think part of the whole article being a deterrent as they cannot be everywhere all at once

Wotcha and welcome Rik - all friendly on here to feel free to get stuck in

How far from Sheffield are you - these chaps have a great rep and might be good for a second opinion? http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2221-subaru-servicing-in-sheffield/

Wotcha and welcome - do love a hatch me As you have the 330 it has already had the benefit increasing the standard STI's performance by a remap and a sportier backbox teh remap will have also included the additional parameters to avoid the ringland failure suffered by some of the sharkeyes. If you are running on standard engine internals this is as far as Subaru recommend you go so I would suggest looking at handling - strut brace for the front end, some suspension tweaks to improve the handling - Litchfield does a pack (Bilstein struts and Eibach springs) which lowers the front end by about 10mm firms up the ride a little all around just to provide a better handling car. Only other thing I would consider would be a quicker ratio steering rack combined with the rest of the package you will have something that really hustles. http://www.litchfieldimports.co.uk/SUBARU/Subaru-Performance-Upgrades/subaru_08_handling

turned my head that is for sure

Wotcha and welcome - tax online, drive immediately ;)

Yummy http://1.ajes.com/imgs/hmt5HRRP7dWH9hilAgpgPZOyYqBIXNbYwjnd3q3B8yV3Tq8F7X223AVfAfEJvcAY98oGxgxAK7nYQRNDVNxMT7TdqDmtFIQS-gc1-7 http://www.japan-partner.com/car-auction/SUBARU/LEGACY/2oFoxS1GRV64UlO/auction-car.html#mainContent

There will be a little drain - the LED's shoudnt have too much of an impact - for shows it should be easy enough to rig up the small battery and have it power the lights etc during the day

all I got was a google maps image - couldnt add a new pin or modify one if I generated it through an address search - using firefox though...

Marty and Savage have covered it - if you are running that amount of audio equipment I would go for a split charge and additional battery as it means you are not constantly having a full load going from the front of the car to the rear down your main cable a capacitor stores a charge and discharges to 'top up' when needed. what is the wattage rating of you Neons you can work out an approximate discharge time from there. I cant see you getting away from spending some money though with what you describe you want to achieve

Wotcha and welcome - looking sharp in black