Paul_JJ

I think if you really want an economical car, you need to buy a diesel -) but I hate diesels... My MPG has improved after a replaced a Knock Sensor - there was no error code though.

Can you circle on the pictures what exactly was the biggest issue and I should look at? I've got an error which comes and goes and I'm trying to determine a sensor which is playing up.

ok thank you! Yes some sensors even used, would be great, as I need them for testing and eliminating the issue and can't afford to buy all of them brand new.

Well, looking at this up-pipe for example - it looks like that would fit any impreza from 92 to 2006... Mines is very rare 1997 JDM Forester, finding an OEM Up-pipe of the same year in good condition, would be similar to winning a lottery -) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-UpPipe-LinkPipe-Up-Pipe-for-SUBARU-Impreza-92-06-WRX-STi-GT-GC8-GDA-GDB-/281549497755?hash=item418da8659b:g:SXcAAOSwc0FUpn7i ALso I Have purchased the bolts and gaskets (expensive stuff) from ICP already and they are the same for all impreza's 92-06 as well. But I was hoping that someone on the UK forum had experience with such issues in the past, since the Up-pipe is part of the exhaust manifold and these things on the turbo charged cars usually don't last very long...

Well as long as it fits, that would do me at least for a year or so. I will eventually ask Zisco from Malta to fabricate a good mild steel pipe for me. Stainless doesn't like very hot temperatures and these guys from Malta are superb at fabricating exhausts, manifolds and so on with a proper warranty. My ECU is not re-mappable, nor I have any piggy backs or any other means of adjusting the fuel map, I run my standard 250 bhp and happy with that -) but 300 could be fantastic, not sure if the auto gearbox will like it though.

Well, if that would fit, than I think it would be a good start for me, as I can always gut the actual cat. The price is just very good for that. I don't really see how that would need to be remapped as I run standard pressure and my understanding of cars is that the turbo won't spool up as fast of the restriction, It will not see the high boost, but in theory should work otherwise, as lambda would adjust accordingly and is located on the downpipe for me. What I don't like about this design is that when the cat starts to degrade small bits and pieces will come out of it and that will get to turbo, thus damaging the blades? But even then I can always gut it, making it just plain pipe. Please correct me if I'm mistaken? Also on the pictures above do you see the crack on the inside? is that normal for OEM pipes? is it on the way out already?

Would the one from 2005 forester fit? It has a cat and Lambda in the pipe, but my lambda is located on the downpipe and I can always gut it -) so that sounds like a cheap and reliable option for me? I suppose I have TD04 turbo and not sure what is on 2005 model would that definitely FIT my 1997 car??? Pics below

They calculated it differently, the cheapest was probably 92 RON. And their 93 is our 97 or similar. But the point taken the petrol out there is not great! This guy explains really well what Octane rating is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfhTTuxF6Mk US and Europe calculate it in different ways which makes US fuel look like it has a lower rating but in reality they've got the same rating. US shows the average of the Research Octane Number (RON) and Motor Octane Number (MON) rating, which is the Anti-Knock Index (AKI) while Europe just shows the RON rating which gives a higher number than the MON rating. More info from wiki: The most common type of octane rating worldwide is the Research Octane Number (RON). RON is determined by running the fuel in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing the results with those for mixtures of iso-octane and n-heptane (a fuel standard). Motor Octane Number (MON), which is a better measure of how the fuel behaves when under load, as it is determined at 900 rpm engine speed, instead of the 600 rpm for RON.[1] MON testing uses a similar test engine to that used in RON testing, but with a preheated fuel mixture, higher engine speed, and variable ignition timing to further stress the fuel's knock resistance. Depending on the composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than the RON, however there is no direct link between RON and MON. Normally, fuel specifications require both a minimum RON and a minimum MON. Basically MON uses a higher stress test and because of that it gives a lower Octane number as the fuel is under greater stress than when it is being tested through RON method. tl;dr:UK and rest of Europe show the RON rating. US/Canada show the AKI rating which is the average of RON and MON rating.

Stants I've seen Map sensors on the turbo cars from 80s -) so they're around for a while. I just didn't now that there is a Air Density sensor as well. Can anyone advise on the picture 5? It's not far from the suspension strut, close to the wiper blades/windscreen area - does anyone have any of that? I feel like my MAP might be playing up, now I have to take in to account that it could be the Air Density sensor as well. As oft he igniter I've no idea what is this for and what to look for in case it goes bad. Also how do I check if my car has the EGR or not? As this often needs cleaning. I thank you for a kind offer, I'm actually very far from Suffolk at the moment -) What I could do however give you deposit you ask for the sensors and you could post them to me. Try them on and if not needed I will post them back, if needed I can buy them off you, but let's check the part numbers first! I want to check: MAP MAP Air Density TPS Camshaft sensor I already replaced the following: Lambda MAF Knock Sensor PCV Valve Crankshaft sensor (this was used) Coolant to ECU sensor Alternator was replaced as well. If it's not one of these sensors I will have to replace the whole !Removed! gearbox, even though it works fine, also the rear diff started to make some noise at 60mph+ every so often. There is also a rear kick sometimes - but not too often. The error code is really confusing it might not show up for a week....... then the next day I start the car it's there. Once it didn't show up for a month.... Usually it's more often to see the error during the rain (cold start) but after about 5 miles of driving I can stop turn the engine off and back on and the error will clear itself....

Does the standard one has a flexi??? Or why the aftermarket with flexi is bad? is it putting strain on the gaskets or something? After reading this I feel like looking for OEM used pipe -) And yes I've got a new set of gaskets and nuts from ICP, wasn't cheap though.

THE US has a different system, it's not RON they use. Google it for more details, basically it's about the same as RON 95, just different way of calculating, similar to their Temperature calculations in Fahrenheit.

Stants LOL about the fresh air -))))) I get about 320+ on the motorway (that's about 70 ish) and in town is MUCH MUCH worse -) about 200 per 50 litres. I don't like Shell, yes it's good but I always felt that Tesco 99 gave me more power, even with my old turbo charged Toyota. The same said a friend of mine with a Lambo running 600 bhp... Shell is just overpriced in my opinion. Remember 2 golden rules, always fill in a full tank at night when it's colder and if you're not in a rush - try to fill in very slowly as slow as you can and you'll get more petrol (about 3-5% for free) - don't believe me - try it yourself, this is due to the fact that everyone want to fill in as fast as possible and all the meters adjusted for the high flow readings. And you need to stop crying about "bad" UK petrol, once you travel to East Europe (and I do because of my work I spend a lot of time abroad, with the car -) ), you'll realise that the UK petrol in fact !Removed! good -)))))) Nothing, I mean Nothing can be compared to V-power or 99 Tesco, the crap they sell under 98 RON is worse than Asda 95 -) Compared to Japan, of course we're not doing great, but hey compared to many other countries (even Germany is !Removed! with their Super Mega SUPER - something like that 98 RON petrol).

The plugs under the TMIC has been checked no corrosion, very good condition, silicone has been applied! There isn't any rust on the earth bolt under the TMIC. Also I found it strange that the TMIC has no ground wire as my Toyota used to have one -)

Hi all, I have a an Impreza Engine in my 1997 Foreter EJ20G. Can someone advise what are these sensors for? See the pics. https://picasaweb.google.com/108629679967946639907/6312843687873547025?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLSn1d2S9uekbg&feat=directlink 1st picture is a map sensor, but under it there is a 2nd sensor with a vac line which is going to the map... is that a 2nd map??? 2nd picture - is under the map sensor. 3 - Under the air intake (close to MAF) what is that for? 4 - Denso MAP in the middle but what is next to and under it?????? 5 - Something not far from the steering wheel close to the windscreen? 6 - Sensor next to a battery blue wires are the ignition leads. Thank you. Paul

I have a 1997 forester with an impreza Engine EJ20G, I suppose the up-pipe is the same for impreza as well. Mine needs replacing as welding it most likely won't be a long term fix... Can you advise please? I'm relatively new to Subaru world! Thank you.

This error code is related to some other sensor and linked via ECU, probably TPS or MAP, or crank sensor - as this is speed related - there are 2 speed sensors in the gearbox, mines an auto by the way so it gets a lot of info from engine sensors. Is impreza V3/V4 phase - has good reliability or any known issues? Can you show me the example of such cars and full engine description please?

OK thank you guys! Can you put up some pics of different engines - as a reference -) as they say a picture is worth a million words or something like that! Mines has a coilpack right in the middle. P.S. I do have loads of questions in regards to the sensors, will start a new thread on that, basically I'm still fighting with the gearbox error code 25 and I assume this is related to one of the sensors or the wiring... So I plan to replace the sensors 1 by 1 and try to eliminate the problems.

Hi I have and EJ20G impreza Engine in my JDM forester, I was just wondering which one is that - as there are 3 different variations? Can someone explain please and provide the pics ideally to explain which one is which? I can upload my engine picture if needed as well. None of these state my forester, but mine is rather a very rare JDM version, with the Impreza Engine and the gearbox . EJ20G EJ20G engines fall into 3 categories: 1. Rocker-style HLA EJ20G usage Legacy RS 89-93*Legacy RS-RA 89-93 Legacy GT 89-93 Power output ranges from 197 bhp (147 kW; 200 PS) @ 6000 rpm and 260 Nm for the GT to 220 PS (162 kW; 217 bhp) @ 6400 rpm and 270 Nm for the RS versions. Engines can be identified by coil on plug, and with 2 M6 bolts per coil and valve covers with 4CAM 16VALVE and horizontal lines above and below the plug holes. All these engines have the air-to-water intercooler setup (chargecooler) and oil squirters. 2. Bucket-style HLA EJ20G usage Impreza WRX 92~96. Impreza WRX Wagon 92~96 Impreza WRX STI 93~96 EUDM Subaru Impreza Turbo 94~96 Power output ranges from 220 PS @ 6000 rpm and 260 Nm for the WRX Wagons to 275 PS @ 6500 rpm and 319 Nm for the WRX STI Version II. Engines can be identified by coil on plug with 1 M8 bolt per coil and valve covers with 4CAM 16VALVE and horizontal lines above the plug holes. Generally these engines all have the slanted intercooler. Some engines may not have HLA buckets but solid buckets with shims underneath. These engines also feature lighter valves, the intake valves are marked INKO and the exhaust valves are marked EXKO. The standard HLA valves are I252 and E283 respectively. All WRX Wagon engines and automatic sedan engines came with a TD04 with 90 deg elbow, all manual WRX sedans including STI versions had a TD05 with 90 deg elbow 3. Shim-under-bucket style EJ20K usage Impreza wrx sti MT 97~98 Impreza WRX sti wagon MT 97~98 JDM wrx 96~97 Power output is 280 PS @ 6800 rpm for the Japanese versions and 300 PS for the v3 sti with vf23 Engines can be identified by smooth valve covers, plug leads and a wasted spark coil in the middle of the intake manifold. also manifold is red utilizing ihi ball Bering turbo unit ether vf22 vf23 or vf24 these engines have die cast pistons

Hey I also have a 1997 import -)

Oh and here is full service manual for SF5 model 2001, in plain English! Just press download. https://yadi.sk/d/mAsTJwvrhjoah/2001 Forester SF/Service Manual

Can anyone with SF forester provide a print out of their tracking? I just want to compare mine as I feel like mine could be improved since the mechanic was unable to find the 97 Turbo forester and used the 99 N/A Forester setting for the tracking.

Replaced the Knock sensor - MPG improved by about 10%. Replaced the PCV valve - can't comment on the changes. Replaced all the bushes/drop links/steering rod/racks - handles better, but rather too stiff and steering feels heavier as well. During the tracking the Forester 1997 wasn't available so we used 1999 and now it pulls to the right, even though I have a print out where is everything in the green zone after the tracking... Will be replacing remaining sensors soon as the hold is still flashing and it is related to some engine sensor(s)... Apart from the PCV valve is there anything else I should check/replace in regards to the emissions/fuel systems?

The difference between cheap OAT and expensive is that 1 last for 1-2 years and the other one over 5 years -) But mind you I had to put a cheap OAT in and my sensors were going bananas, showing cold engine while blowing hot air and loads of things can happen, not 100% that is was down to the antifreeze of course, but I'm about to replace my sensors now just in case, even though after flashing with Toyota one everything is much better now. I think for Turbo charged cars NOT every antifreeze will be suitable (at least in a long run), as some will sustain hotter temperatures better and you need that, as coolant cools down the turbo as well and that is ouch, extremely hot.

Yes that's the one. I would rather get one from the Dealership, it's about the same price, but you'll get the original one and many online shops can sell a few year old antifreeze where is it's always better to get a fresh one -)

Toyota Antifreeze is one of the best you can get for your car. Try it.