Paul_JJ

Thank you for the shocks, arrived well packaged. Much appreciated.

I would rather stay away from the 2.5L engines, heard a lot of negative feedback. It's best to stick with 2L I believe. That STI looks really nice though!

Can you run 3DMark 11 with default settings and just post a link here? 720p is good for testing actually as some games can bottleneck either CPU or Graphics card at a higher resolution. But the thing is everyone runs 720p tests, so if you want to compare to the rest, this is what you have to do. With higher resolutions the AMD graphics cards seem to perform better than Nvidia ones (like 4K or higher), but CPU can be a bottle-neck then, so the test will be ruined even with the fast graphics card(s).

Good luck with the sale, I wish I had the extra cash for the 4 pots as well.

Awaiting pics. None of the pics on the 1st page work for me for some reason...

Well, 17 is too much for me. I've read that 4 pot fits even under 15 inch, it's all depends on the off-set apparently. But I'm not sure about which off-set I need for the 4 POT. How come the heads gone??? What's the mileage? Do you have any pics of the interior please? and you can PM the engine bay pics if you don't mind of course! Thanks a lot.

What's happened to your Forester then? Do you break the whole car? PM me the price for the brake stopper (if that would fit SF5) and I'm not sure if the 4 pots will fit under my wheels, but feel free to drop a PM.

Do these fit SF5 models as well? Thanks!

Is this one to fit SF5 models??? Thanks. Nidgep - did you buy one in the end?

You can just provide the link: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/11663161 My 6 year old CPU seem to perform better -) because it's overclocked. The graphics card is obviously not as fast, but still pretty good for 1060 I think.

Can you share your 3d Mark 11 results so we could compare?

I have 1060, I think it's about the same or slightly slower than 980Ti, depends on the game, but 6Gb do help for sure with AA, AF on max -) Just get a second 980Ti and SLI them, will be cool, also SLI is not as good as a good stand alone graphics card. USB controller could be on the way or just the connector, happens pretty often, on Toshiba especially. Old business series HP never had such problem as far as I know.

Yeah, it's a great fun building your own PC and do a research and stuff. I have GTX 1060 By the way, 1070 is a bit too pricey at the moment. I used to run my own business building/fixing PC's and laptops but got a pretty good job offer I couldn't resist -) especially when you have a small kid, it's a lot easier to have a full time job rather than your own business. Feel free to ask any questions in regards to the PC's, I'll be happy to help.

Yeah. I've seen that as well. It really is a bad idea to send an assembled PC by post, I learned it the hard way -) I see what you mean about the night shifts -) I have a PC at work (top i7) with 4 monitors and a laptop and of course a custom build PC at home and a personal laptop which I rarely use. I don't do night shifts, but I'm able to work from home as well, so having a good PC at home does help.

Oh dear... idiots. For such powerful laptop it's best to get the fans which is like a tray and go under the laptop and get the power from the USB, have a look for Antec if they still make one. Would really prolong the life of your laptop - the motherboard in particular. I prefer custom PC's though and has been building them since 1995 -)

Cleaned the MAF sensor - no issues so far (drove about 500 miles at least after the cleaning). That could be the reason for sure.

I have cleaned the ICV recently, so that is spot on for sure. I mean when the car is warm the idle is fantastic 750 rpm.

Well I believe it was the fuel cut or fuel starvation, as such the last time it happened only when the petrol tank was near empty, not at the bottom line but not far from it... With the full tank I was unable to reproduce the problem. Oh and I cleaned the MAF, it did help for sure, sure MAF cleaner does wonders if you spray it at the headlights soo shiny after that -) The engine start has improved and now the car doesn't jump to 2K RPM during the cold start then settle at 1.5K, now it jumps to 1.6-1.7 and settle at the 1.4K -) So thank you everyone, I'll monitor the issue.

Thank you Mark. The error code for me remains the same "Short or disconnection in engine torque control signal circuit " What I'm unable to figure out is what is the engine torque control and what is responsible for that, but for a fact it's a loose/rusted connection somewhere most likely. I have been unable to find a mechanic to sort out this issue...

!Removed! good driving skills, he did well indeed!

You can see my car in description -) but also being a FIRST forester, it's pretty much an impreza inside!

At cold mines goes to 1700k or even 2K for a few seconds, then drops to around 1500K mark when cold, then to 750 rpm stable - no jumping. Mine is pretty much standard, no bigger turbo or anything like that -) just the exhaust has been replaced.

The TPS is brand new, fitted and adjusted by myself -) ICV is properly cleaned as well. I mean the engine starts no probs at all, like a dream. MAF sensor is 1 year old, but probably could do with a clean... VAC leak - possible, but why there isn't any indication of a problem when the car is idling during the cold engine start?

Sometimes can even happen under light braking... but rare. the RPM goes as low as 500rpm and the engine might stall. I can rev it a bit, but has to change to N for that. Any idea where to look? Can one of the sensors cause that? Does the same in D and N - so can't be the gearbox then? Surely in Neutral the gearbox is disconnected? The car drives and STARTS just fine even when cold. Thank you.

Haha, same here. It was pretty interesting to see the actual BHP/ Torque graph and the shiny bodywork as well as my alloy wheels in a brand new state -)