Paul_JJ

I would rather stay away from the 2.5L engines, heard a lot of negative feedback. It's best to stick with 2L I believe. That STI looks really nice though!

Good luck with the sale, I wish I had the extra cash for the 4 pots as well.

Awaiting pics. None of the pics on the 1st page work for me for some reason...

Well, 17 is too much for me. I've read that 4 pot fits even under 15 inch, it's all depends on the off-set apparently. But I'm not sure about which off-set I need for the 4 POT. How come the heads gone??? What's the mileage? Do you have any pics of the interior please? and you can PM the engine bay pics if you don't mind of course! Thanks a lot.

What's happened to your Forester then? Do you break the whole car? PM me the price for the brake stopper (if that would fit SF5) and I'm not sure if the 4 pots will fit under my wheels, but feel free to drop a PM.

Do these fit SF5 models as well? Thanks!

Is this one to fit SF5 models??? Thanks. Nidgep - did you buy one in the end?

Cleaned the MAF sensor - no issues so far (drove about 500 miles at least after the cleaning). That could be the reason for sure.

I have cleaned the ICV recently, so that is spot on for sure. I mean when the car is warm the idle is fantastic 750 rpm.

Well I believe it was the fuel cut or fuel starvation, as such the last time it happened only when the petrol tank was near empty, not at the bottom line but not far from it... With the full tank I was unable to reproduce the problem. Oh and I cleaned the MAF, it did help for sure, sure MAF cleaner does wonders if you spray it at the headlights soo shiny after that -) The engine start has improved and now the car doesn't jump to 2K RPM during the cold start then settle at 1.5K, now it jumps to 1.6-1.7 and settle at the 1.4K -) So thank you everyone, I'll monitor the issue.

Thank you Mark. The error code for me remains the same "Short or disconnection in engine torque control signal circuit " What I'm unable to figure out is what is the engine torque control and what is responsible for that, but for a fact it's a loose/rusted connection somewhere most likely. I have been unable to find a mechanic to sort out this issue...

!Removed! good driving skills, he did well indeed!

You can see my car in description -) but also being a FIRST forester, it's pretty much an impreza inside!

At cold mines goes to 1700k or even 2K for a few seconds, then drops to around 1500K mark when cold, then to 750 rpm stable - no jumping. Mine is pretty much standard, no bigger turbo or anything like that -) just the exhaust has been replaced.

The TPS is brand new, fitted and adjusted by myself -) ICV is properly cleaned as well. I mean the engine starts no probs at all, like a dream. MAF sensor is 1 year old, but probably could do with a clean... VAC leak - possible, but why there isn't any indication of a problem when the car is idling during the cold engine start?

Sometimes can even happen under light braking... but rare. the RPM goes as low as 500rpm and the engine might stall. I can rev it a bit, but has to change to N for that. Any idea where to look? Can one of the sensors cause that? Does the same in D and N - so can't be the gearbox then? Surely in Neutral the gearbox is disconnected? The car drives and STARTS just fine even when cold. Thank you.

Haha, same here. It was pretty interesting to see the actual BHP/ Torque graph and the shiny bodywork as well as my alloy wheels in a brand new state -)

Found another video - good quality this time, it was good to see how original rims looked like in a brand new state -)

It's the steering rack then.... if the rack goes bad it ruins the pump if the pump goes bad, it ruins the rack -)))

The only mechanic in the UK I would recommend is TIM. Simply the best mechanic I ever experienced. You can trust this, he also doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The only downside is that you'll have to wait for a month or so to get to him. https://www.facebook.com/tbdevelopments/ He is a Toyota specialist, however I'm sure he could advise in regards to Subaru as well.

Oh right. So which part number did you use? Do you have a manual of how to replace that O-ring?

Hey! I would just replace the pump to be honest! It might be the steering rack issue though. Also some people say that it might be related to the gearbox (only AUTO gearboxes affected as far as I know). I currently have the same issue.

Well, join the club. I've got the same issue with the interior lights, cleaned/replaced the fuse a few times already. I feel like it's either wiring or relay. Electrics can cost a fortune to pinpoint a problem unfortunately, like in my case I have electrical issue with the gearbox, but it's cheaper for me to replace the whole gearbox rather than find which wire/sensor is faulty... My rear defrost works just fine, however I also have rear side defrosters, which I believe activated by a separate button, when I press that button I instantly get 2 volt drop in the system... and the left side (the one where antenna is is not working anyway). Good job I don't use them at all...

Just wanted to add that it depends on the OIL and the outside temperature. If it's around 0 C then I would wait for at least 5 min before driving the car, and keep under 3K rpm when driving the first 2-3 miles after that. With your oil it's a good idea to wait for 10 min, as 10W is pretty thick oil, I would rather use 5W or 0W for colder weather and you will have a better engine starts too. 5W-30 is the best oil in my opinion for the daily driver, especially with a lot of short trips and many cold starts.

What was the initial issue with the car not starting? Did it crank the engine at all? Was it that it started for a second and cut off then? Or was it completely dead? I had a faulty fuel pump it did start for a second only then it would just crank... Replaced that but don't forget that the fuel filter should be replaced as well. have you tested the fuel pressure? My bet it's either fuel related or alarm related. Also I've read some faulty maf sensors might result to the same issue, however you said you don't use maf on your ecu, have you checked your MAP sensor then? And last but not least - replace the starter motor may be???