Paul_JJ

Relay may be? But they actual heaters do burn out sometimes, did you turn off on it's on after some time or didn't? To be honest with Subaru the electronics is the weakest point, I have issues myself and the alternators go quick and underpowered in the first place... Toyota was miles more reliable in this way.

I don't think that was only for Canadian Market since the same wheels present on the JDM subaru advert -)))))))) so these are the original wheels!

Does anyone know the camber bols (or standard bolts) part number for the front suspension? I believe there are 2 bolts at the bottom holding the actual shock absorber? Does that mean that I have to buy 4 bolts? I plan to replace my suspension and feel like the original bolts are rusted and not sure if they're going to be ok, so decided to buy the new ones beforehand. However I don't know the part number. I know that it's the same for Classic Impreza and Foresters. Are these the front bolts for the suspension? http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA414 Having a JDM car it's difficult to find the parts -)

No doubt they're good tyres, for the price you pay they must be the best -) You could get possibly 2 tyres of Toyo and just a single Michelin for the same price.

If magnet REALLY is a big improvement for you, why don't you brake an old speaker, get a magnet from there and stick it to your oil filter? Every oil filter is made of metal and a massive magnet next to it will make the whole filter magnetic as well. Alternatively you can disassemble a faulty hard drive - they have mega strong magnets inside and old automatic gearboxes if you drop a pan there will be a few small magnets as well -)

Feel free to rep me for finding this thread -) http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?27947-Oil-Filter-Exposed

I wouldn't recommend K&N oil filters - !Removed!! Usually OEM must be the BEST ones! Some German manufacturers can make quality filters as well. But overall we need to collect some cash, buy all the different filters - cut them and see what's inside only then we can decide which one is the best to buy.

Done it this weekend. On my own! Not that hard to do but quite complicated to get to it, you need 0.5Volt from the middle pin (+) and the 2nd probe goes to the Negative Car terminal. I can write a manual with pics if needed. As soon as I started the engine I could hear the difference, it looks like it does affect a lot of things in the car. I actually put 0.53 volts, but it jumps quite a lot + when you tighten the screws it moves as well, so takes time to figure out but anything up to 0.55V is good and I would rather put it a bit more as this gives me a better throttle response. The whole driving experience is different now, also I've done just a few miles, so can't comment much, but you can see the difference straight away. The bad news though that it hasn't sorted my Gearbox error and it looks like it's not related to any of the sensors under the engine bay, the only sensor I haven't replaced is the map sensor I do have a spare used one though, so can try that one at some point.

My SF5 Forester is 100 kg lighter -) as of the 5.3s must be very good gearbox then. Mine is an auto so manual would've been lighter. Impressive forester though!

What's the weight of the car and how many BHP? Yes it's like WRX, but it's heavier!

ok will do for sure! I've done a massive research on it, ideally the direct access to ECU is needed in order to measure the voltage (this checking for damaged cables as well). But the easy way is to tap directly to the wiring near the TPS connector. The middle pin must be the ground. We'll see on the weekend though -)

I found that middle is the ground and any of the side can be used, engine has to be turned off. Will try to do it on the weekend!

I have 3 pins, the part number is "SERA483-05"

Well I found that it has to be 0.5 volt with the throttle closed, however I'm not sure which pins shall I connect to - I have 3 pins and some states that it's left and middle some state that 1 st and 3rd...

Hi all, I recently replaced my TPS (which is Hitachi, but manufactured by Nissan...) and I'm not sure how to adjust it properly, I put the bolts to the same position as they were on the old one but the car started to accelerate much worse... Also in regards to the throttle valve can that be adjusted as well??? Thx. Paul

NIce car! Welcome! What's the 0-60 on these models?

anyone?

The Bay sometimes doesn't sell brand new (same year manufactured) tyres. They sell 1-2 year old tyres, which are cheaper. Yes they're all brand new, but the tyre does age over time even if it's not used. Your choice though -) You might get lucky and will get a good one! Try Toyo tyres, I wouldn't touch their Summer tyres (they're OK, but not the best), but for the winter these are the best for the UK climate as they're decent in dry conditions and superb in WET. Where is a lot of winter tyres have issues in dry conditions (by issues I mean they either wear out quickly or don't grip well). If I you lived in Norway I'd recommend to get Nokian tyres for example, but they barely see dry tarmac during the winter season.

Replied above -)

You DON'T need the V speed rating for sure. I don't think they manufacture such winter tyres to be honest. Can you possibly imagine doing such speed in harsh conditions like snow or heavy rain? I went with H rating Toyo Snowproxes - stick with them and keep them till March. Even H rating is good enough for most drivers. The tyres are very good, been using them for years, also they're directional, so has it's downsides, but overall they last very long (depends on the driving style). Another thing to mention I wouldn't keep the winter tyres longer than 4-5 years (even if plenty of Thread) as the rubber hardens and they don't handle well in wet conditions. I personally have to drive in snow/ice in the winters in North Europe and I replace my winter tyres usually every 3 years. The reason you have V speed rating stated is because your car is capable of such speeds therefore the manufacturer by law must state such rating. If you don't do 150 mph, then you can stick with "lower level" tyres depending on your speed habits, I usually go with H in the summer and winter, which is way above the UK speed limits anyway.

Talking about the winter tyres here is a 5% off code -) for the winter tyres, they have one of the lowest prices in the country anyway, so with 5% off that would be a real bargain. Your code* is: RDUKCW37 FROM 11th - 18th SEPTEMBER 2016 mytyres.co.uk

Is that possible? Is it safe? Here is some info http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/3-pin-alternator-2-pin-car-159953/

I always highly recommend winter tyres to anyone. They're not just for snow, but also for.... WATER. And we have plenty in the UK during the winter months. Look for Toyo Snoproxes at mytyres.co.uk - VERY good tyres even in extreme winter conditions like -30C driving. The thread is about 10mm, so they last for a long time and ideal for floods and rainy seasons + occasional snow/ice.

so the same kits as on the links provided?