Bip

Any local members to you who might let you borrow a recirc for half an hour?

If you still have your original recirc then it might be an idea to refit that just to see if that improves things. If not then you have at least ruled it out.

Do you have a dump valve? These can sometimes cause idle issues. With the engine running have a a listen around the induction side post MAF and around the BOV/recirc for a noise like air escaping. It could be something as simple as a split somewhere allowing air in after the MAF which would definitely cause idle issues.

Yes you can check the codes without the light being on permanently. It's will give you any and all stored codes. Make a note of any codes you get then reset the ECU. Go for a drive and see if the CEL comes back. Check the codes again and you will know what's up with it. The reason I say do all this is because if you have old stored codes from previous problems that have since been fixed you could end up chasing a problem that no longer exists.

I would recommend MeisterR's I have a set of their Zeta-R's on my Legacy, they are fully adjustable, very easy to work with, great value for money at around £750 and I've never heard a bad word about them. No matter what coilovers you buy be sure to spray them with some white lithium grease every 6months just to stop them seizing.

Looks awesome!! But then I am biased because I have two Depo Racing gauges! Lol

Thanks guys. :D And for those who don't like my choice of colour for the wheels :P I like being different and not following the crowd. :)

Hi guys, Today I found a picture and small write up on my car in August's edition of Banzai Magazine! Really pleased although, the write up suggests its a single turbo even though its twins. First time I've ever had a car in a magazine, really proud of it! :D

No I think the 3 gauge pod is a bit over the top. Plus, I have never seen one for a legacy so I would have to make it myself. The pod I have is really rare. I have never seen another one. Having such a small boost gauge in the middle is perfect in my opinion. It doesn't obstruct the drivers' view of anything else and it matches the rest of the dials perfectly, even illuminating green. :) I got my Depo's from an eBay retailer.

Yeah the little one is a Blitz boost gauge. :)

Running from the same power source shouldn't be an issue. Personally, i'm not a fan of the prosport gauges, i find them to be a bit slow or delayed. Corrct me if i'm wrong but i'm not sure they even dim when the lights are on. But it's all down to what you want them to do and personal taste. Don't let me put you off.

This is how my setup looks now. B)

I've got Depo racing gauges. I think they are brilliant value for money. Very responsive, colour changing so you can match them to whatever colour dash lights you've got, peak and warning lights. The quality of them feels great too. They only cost £50 for the oil temp and £65 for the oil pressure and they look and feel as good as Defi's which we all know cost a LOT more money.

I have had a sandwich plate on my Legacy for some time now and never had an issue. I was sceptical to begin with, so I regularly checked for any leaks. It's been fine so far, but I do check it over at every oil change. I just changed my oil pressure and oil temp gauges on Friday. The new gauges came with everything. I fitted the senders in the sandwich plate, then routed the wires into the cabin through a rubber grommet in the bulkhead. then passed them up behind the dash to the a-pillar, where they plugged into the gauges, the gauges daisy-chain each other for the power so theres only one set of connections to make. Permanent live ignition live lights live earth I took the permanent, ignition live and earth from the turbo timer plug in loom. Then I took the lights live from the loom for the front fog light switch. (just because it was closest to the a-pillar and I didn't have a lot of spare wire) Just about 2hrs but only because it was so hot and I kept stopping to get cold drinks or to wash the sweat out my eyes! lol

Yeah, the look of surprise on peoples faces is priceless.

I'll often wave, although, its rare i get a response. Worryingly in the past few weeks there seems to be a growing number of people in my area driving whilst on the phone. So perhaps this is why they are unable to wave back. Im not saying this is just Subaru drivers but Subaru's are the only cars that get my attention.

Not my cup of tea but I can appreciate the amount of hard work that has gone into that! Did you do all the mods yourself?

Sounds to me like you or a previous owner of your car may have !Removed! off a number of people in your area. Have you made sure someone hasn't sneakily stuck something offensive on your car without your knowledge? (i.e. "All Golf drivers are tw*ts!")

Does sound strange on that video, but the wind noise doesn't help. It seems odd that you can only hear it a 3,000rpm. Usually bottom end is most noticeable at idle, but if you have caught it very early then you might not yet have worn through the bearing completely which would be a good thing. That engine does need a strip down. I would suggest you don't even start it up again if you can avoid it. Get it out at the earliest opportunity and you might just save it before you do any damage to the crank, con rods or crank case.

When you say it sounds like rubbing, does it sound like the tyre is making contact with the arch or more of a dull wheel bearing rubbing? First thing I would check is the drop links. They are quick, easy and cheap to do and they solve 70% of strange noises.

Ha ha ha, it had been a long day. Hadn't spotted it was the same person.

What have you changed? My first thought would be to check the fuel pump is working, then check cam and crank position sensors, then the coil pack.

I've already replied to a very similar thread on here tonight. Lol I'll give you the same advice. It would be a lot cheaper and easier to start with a turbo car than to do an engine and loom swap in a non turbo. But if you are determined to use the shell you already have then it will be a long tedious job stripping out the original loom and laying in the new loom. Physically changing the engine is the easiest part of the whole process. I am part way through helping a friend do a similar project at the moment. If you are going to do a fully stripped out race prepped car with a cage and flocked dash and such like then you will be removing the entire interior anyway which is half the job.

Head gasket = £160 Cam belt = £70 Water pump = £40 Thermostat = £15 Front crankshaft seal = £7 Rear crankshaft seal = £15 Head skimming prices can vary Then most garages charge around £45-£55 per hour, so two days would be around £720 - £880 and three days would be around £1,080 - £1,320 These are only rough prices and labour costs. Parts aren't very expensive but this sort of job is very labour intensive. :(

Agreed, it is a lot easier and cheaper to start with a turbo car than to convert a non-turbo. But if you are thinking of doing something completely different then perhaps fit a 3.0 H6 engine from a Legacy. Perhaps throw on a supercharger to make things really interesting. It really depends on how much money and time you have to throw at it.