Scooby Pete

i was playing around with it as my MPG seemed stuck on 21.9mpg, set it up as S# DCCD on Auto - ( click back the swith in Auto mode) and VDC to Off the car felt so much more alive everything was more repsonsive, Breaks felt Firmer, throttle was instant and the steering lighter. was a totaly differnet car. Bit annoyed that when you switch off it all reverts back to i drive, Auto DCCD and VCD on.

Nice article explaing how to adjust the settings in the STI and what each of them does. http://driveperformance.subaru.com/dp51_blueprint.aspx

Keith Micheals in surrey. A lot of the surrey scooby use them.

Glad to help :)

I must admit I tried that, as I had one bulb that was lose at the top in the middle and it was fine for the bulbs at the top. Bit more awkward to do the bulbs at the bottom, as you don't have a lot of play in the speedo, so you still have to disconnect the speedo cable to tilt the whole binnacle towards you. Ive had to replace then binacle it self, then a while laterr decided to replaced all my dash bulbs with blue LEDs and then later again the dials with Lockwood silver dials, so I had taking the binnacle out down to a fine art. I also replaced my whole dash at one point due to bad bleaching where a cleaning product I used did some damage. That's was a mare of a job and gave me more cuts and scrapes than anything else I did on that car :D

It's is quite a fidily job, if you have got the dash surround off, 4 screws 2 at the top 2 at the bottom. Disconnect all the plugs to the hazards, fogs, etc. When you have removed the surround, you need to remove the 4 brass coloured screws to free the binnacle from the dash itself. Then on the right is a large grey clip which connects the loom to the binnacle. This has a clip on the outside you need to lever up and then slide the connector towards the front of the car to remove it. Also on this side is a blue plug in to the back of the binnacle that needs to be removed. This is also a clip type, and can be awkward to remove. Now you should be able to angle the binnacle to make room to remove the connect or the left, when this is done you now should be able to remove the speedo cable from the back of the binnacle. I always did this first by getting my hand up the back of the dash on the left hand side of the steering colum and feeling around for the speedo cable and pulling it off the back of the binnacle. Hope this helps. I have attached the workshop manual for the classic at the end of this thread http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/41-whats-your-audio-set-up-in-your-suburu/ unfortunately it's not complete but it's the only one I ever found. The bit you want is page 536 it doesnt give to much info but it does have some pics.

I've seen some the cars on surrey Scoobies have had done by a old club member who noe does professional detailing, looks amazing. Must admit If i was being super criticaland I could justify the cost, my car could do with going through a paint correction and full polish. Check out this Range Rover he did. http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=253615

It was a ford focus, i'lI post a thread rather than hijack this thread.

The car was a cat D write off, got paid out and so bought it back and used the extra to do the rebuild. I thought they were standard on the Sti Type UK? Must admit I wish I had a silver car. Getting fed up having to wash mine every time it rains as it just looks awful with all the crap left behind, shows up really badly on the black.

Thought I'd post some more pics of my Scoobs. 95 WRX as I bought it. Reasons for the Face Lift. As it was when I sold it. I also had Jap Spec STi rear Lights. And my New scoob that replaced it. .

Had a friend do angel eyes on his 08 STI, don't know the exact details, he mentioned it involves baking the light in the oven to separate the lens from the unit.

Code 24 refers to the whole system not just the ICV. What you have sounds like it losing pressure somewhere. I'd check for any leaks around the inlet side of things, all the pipes to the turbo and inlet manifold check all the pipes for splits ect. Check the exhaust seals espec at the down pipe, if the rear box was hit then this may have moved the downpipe and broken the gaskets seal to the turbo. Worst case check the up pipe as the whole turbo assembly may have moved if it was that much of a whack and broken the seal to the up pipe.

I had a 95 and could have fitted a double din. Mine had a cd holder compartment at the top I was able to remove Remove the gear stick surround, take out the 2 black screws behind cup holder at top of dash. Take off the gear knob, now you need to remove the rubber gator. There are two black screws at an angle under the gaiter. The base of the gear surround trim is held in by plastic tabs and should pull free, pull gently at the curve (this trim is easy to break so be carefull.) it should come free and you can remove the surround altogether. Remove your head unit. Then there should be 4 screws they should be brass coloured, holding in the cage for the radio, remove these and the whole centre part will pull toward you. Disconnect the cigarette lighter and you should be holding the cage free of the console. The cd holder on mine was held in by four screws Remove these and you end up with the separate halves of the cage. Depending on how your head unit was fitted it may still be held together by the metal tabs you bent on the head unit cage. Edit: Found a pic in the workshop manual. You dont need to remove the rear console box I didn't actually fit the double din as I mounted a knocklink and Lambda link in the space, but I'm guessing you could make some brackets to fit a double din if the ones supplied don't fit. Hope that helps Edit:2. I have attached the 1995 workshop manual as a PDF. Its not complete but its the only one about. 1993-1996 Subaru WRX Workshop Manuals.pdf

Welcome :)

Had Cee Lo Green playing in the car recently, some great songs to drive to. "F$£k you is a good driving track. I've got loads though. From my driving playlist. 500 miles. Proclaimers God is a DJ. faithless Mr Blue Sky. ELO Love you more. Sunscream (not that god awful steps cover) Your love keeps lifting me higher. Jackie Wilson Build me up Buttercup. Foundations No Good. Prodigy (All prodigy is great but it's gets the blood flowing and right foot gains a mind of its own.) My music taste is pretty much all encompassing I just don't do Garage, Drum N Base or modern R and B.

Have to say that even thought I've only done 30 miles on the 1st tank of nitro I'm nearly 1mpg better off. Avg 22.8 as opposed to 21.6 on the old optimax. Will be interesting to see the mpg after a full tank. Even if its an extra 1mpg it goes quite away to offsetting the increase in price.

Very nice car, looks like a bargain.

some one once left a note on my mums car breating her for not parking within the white lines. I've left notes on cars that park too close to me. " Next time leave a can opener so I can get in my car."

Will be putting this in the car at Lunch time, hope its not even more expensive. £75 to fill up is getting a bit vexing!!

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Which bits did you try?

Same here usually refer to it as scabbynet.

Yeah they are the ones, but resetting the ECU is more than that.A thread on scoobynet has details on reading and resetting the ECU. http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/793200-check-engine-light-flashing-help-please.html Loads of info there, This is how to reset the ECU copied from that thread. How to clear them! Make sure the engine is up to normal temperature (the cooling fans have just turned off) Turn the ignition off Connect the green connectors together and connect the black ones together too Switch the ignition on but don't start it. Check the management light is on. Drive the car for about a minute above 10mph Stop and rev the car to at least 2000 revs for at least a minute Check the light flashes 4 long flashes (Indicating fault code 1111) Switch the ignition off and disconnect the green and black plugs

Hope the car is everything want, what we want is pics :)