Latest Posts

Did you get one in the end?

Thought I'd start a new thread as things have been progressing. When I bough it, it had a new battery, service, MOT and any advisories fixed. I've done the following: Fuel treatment for the first tank Cabin filter CVT oil change (at Subaru) Cabin filter OEM Front, rear, boot & rear seat back rubber matts OEM Rubber arches OEM Rubber side protectors New wipers Hardwire front & rear dashcam (but can't find a permanent live for parking mode!?) Cleaned engine bay Cleaned the MAF sensor Treated most of the underside with ACF-50 I looked to fit a 12v socket in the boot but wasn't sure about what I would be tapping so thats on hold. I think this car has previously just been used as a car. No love. So I'm getting on top of maintenance and longevity. Does anyone know what the deal with the delaminating screens in the UK is? Are they covered or at least recognised by subaru or are they not interested? Things I would like to do if I happen to find them: Replace the steering wheel plastics for OEM (have looked but don't wont temu special!) Replace or repair electronic handbrake switch (chrome wrap has come off so looks messy) I have a TPMS issue that I'm getting the dealer to sort (but they are slow) which I think is a battery issue in one of the tyres. Is there a cheat way that I might be able to reset or see what one it is? Have googled and youtubed to death! 😂 I recently did a 1000 miles over a couple of weeks in the hottest weather and then super storms and rain. During this time it didn't miss a beat! Returned 40mpg on the long parts in sun and 34-36mpg on the rain - both with the AC on. The eyesight cruise worked in the bright sun and heavy rains. The directional headlights and auto full-beams were great on the country roads. The AWD worked well on stoney beaches and rough ground. I did notice what sounded like over-revving going up steep hills but having watched the reviews before I bought it, it then made sense what people were saying. Overall, this is now my perfect everyday car!

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2007/Forester%202007/ Any use? Oops, sorry, that's the service manual.

When I picked my car from the dealer I asked about leaving a dog in the car and how to lock it so that the alarm would not go off. The dealer said just to take the physical key out of the fob and then use it to lock the car. When locking the car “normally” with the fob, part of the locking sequence will activate and turn on the alarm. Locking the car with the physical key just locks the doors, no alarm. It also means you can wind down a window a bit.

Yes, but you'll be well chuffed when the weather turns cr@p, or if you have to drive onto and off muddy fields this summer. Good choice.

Keith price, llanwenarth citra, near crickhowell

Thank you. What would you recommend as my next step please.

Where in uk I can find second hand gear box for my manual forester 2010 petrol. It was making this clunking sound when in lower speed but it turned out is not the cv joint but the gearbox. I have been looking for gear boxed last few days but couldn’t find any. I did find the whole drive train- all the shafts and the gear box plus all the differentials but it was for the previous year forester and not sure it will work.

Where in uk I can find second hand gear box for my manual forester 2010 petrol. It was making this clunking sound when in lower speed but it turned out is not the cv joint but the gearbox. I have been looking for gear boxed last few days but couldn’t find any. I did find the whole drive train- all the shafts and the gear box plus all the differentials but it was for the previous year forester and not sure it will work.

Thanks for your response, Mr B. And apologies for the delay in mine. I think - hopefully not famous last words - I've managed to source a replacement. Tuesday will be the day we know. If it's another wrong replacement, I'll be sure to take some photos etc.

Hi. Ive recently moved house and whilst clearing my attic i found the original rear spoiler off my 1995 WRX import (black). Its taking up space and ideally i would like to sell it. Im based in south wales and happy to get feedback on where i can advertise or if anyone is interested. Thanks

To update, I’ve now raised this as a safety concern with DVSA, citing the known fault and extended warranty in the US. If any other Subaru owner (in the UK) experiences something similar, perhaps by doing the same we can increase the pressure for the DVSA to take action.

Hello there. I am looking for £1250.

Thanks! I've had someone in touch who's breaking a 2007 Outback so may be in luck! Bought this car recently and was gutted when I saw the subframe once it was up on a lift. The car had virtually zero corrosion anywhere you'd expect to find it. The subframe was completely rotten, two of the four mounting points had corroded the whole way though, never seen anything so dramatic and localised. If it wasn't for how awkward the swap is, I'd probably be able to take it off, clean up and weld in some box section, but that'd mean it lurking around immobile for too long, and I'm relying on someone else for the lift. Given it's expensive in terms of labour, I suppose ~£550 for a brand new one for a 20y/o car isn't too bad. I have a feeling that leaking oil may have preserved the front end of mine too! Going to be doing the rocker cover gaskets, and I've been advised to change the trans oil pan too as it has a fairly minor leak, but apparantly there's a risk of it coming off (which I'm told can affect performance!) which wouldn't exactly be a roadside repair! I can get a new one for £50-90 though, which is fine, but if I can save a few hundred on the subframe that would be a nice win!

Sounds like a good car - hopefully you should have a quick sale

If its a heavy clutch then it may be misaligned or clamped down unevenly when fitted. I would go over to the next one you see in a car park, etc and ask if you can try their clutch to see how it differs

Hopefully someone on here maybe able to assist you soon?

Try these companies: https://carwindowregs.co.uk/ https://www.windowregulatorman.co.uk

To be fair, I do wonder about tightening certain fasteners with torque wrenches as you cannot (without crack testing) evaluate the condition of the fasteners and the parts being clamped. When I started out in the motor trade over 45 years ago, the only time we used a torque wrench was for cylinder head bolts, hub nuts and wheel nuts. The rest of the time it was usually tightened to FT and you can almost feel the yield point of the tightened nut or bolt. Caught a cold many years back when torquing up bolts only to find they sheared....can you guarantee the condition of the components, how the wrench is used correctly and is it calibrated accurately. Also, the common problem is that if a NutGun has been used to tighten fasteners in the past then this can also stretch the bolts rendering them unusable. In answer to your question, I would tighten them by hand (never use NutGuns as I see so many doing nowadays) and I would add a thin smear of nut or thread lock to ensure it doesn't work loose even if it is slightly under tightened. If you're using the correct wrenches, sockets, ratchet or breaker bar you will know when it is tight and seated correctly without killing it with brute force

When you start it does it go quite high as well? I’ve had an IAC unit issue code 0502 (I think) on my Hawkeye, it originally would stall when slowing down occasionally, and after cleaning it and replacing the gasket it has helped, but now it’s started going from low revs almost stalling to 2000, before I start driving it. When it’s warm it fluctuates around 800-1200. Sorry I don’t have an answer, just curious to see if you’re in the same situation and follow for an answer, I’ve found OEM ones to be a bit dear as well!

Do you know what the original wiring was?

Northern parts on ebay are great, Gareth has helped me sourced parts for my legacy, just tell him your chassis number and what youre after and if they dont have it in stock they will order it in!

Bargain car for the money

Went for the Lesjofors in the end and are much better than the cheapo chinese units although still not perfect as they are still a little slow to lift up from initial opening. Kilen do a set but they are £100 ish for the set and its a fair chunk to spend if they end up being the same.

Valuation???