akafonzie

Parts suitable for 05 GG wagon (and probably others, will need to check) Whiteline F&R solid alloy droplinks, new- £90 Whiteline 19mm front arb bush, new - £15 Whiteline 19mm rear ARB bush, new - £15 STI (non wide track) rear 19mm ARB, used unfitted - £30 Front upper spring insulators L&R, new - £22.50 Rear lower spring insulators L&R, new - £17.50 Front febi uprated bumpstops, new - £10 Front L&R strut top mounts, new - £65 KYB Rear L&R strut top mounts, new - £65 CDE 5 speed short shifter, used, no alloy gear knob - £50 Alpine cde-w235bt, used, boxed, Inc subaru wiring - £75 Only selling as I've changed cars, all new parts are unfitted and in original packaging. Just looking to recoup my losses, not make any money, but will be open to near offers. Parts located in Norwich, can send but postage will be extra obviously, and payment will be subject to PayPal fees but willing to split this with buyer for both our protection.

Not done yet, but started getting steering wheel wobble last night and had it inspected today to find the calipers are fudged. It was on my to-do list anyway but as i've been stockpiling suspension bits ready to overhaul that it's been on the back burner, this bought it to the top of the list so ordered a set of recon calipers from Godspeed today! Went black with white writing, hopefully they disk hasn't actually warped else i may be forced to do the big brake disc conversion too. I could argue the upgrade to brembos with just calipers but with that i may as well have done the swap anyway :(

Yeah it's been available for a while, just not everywhere has it in stock! ScoobyWorx is one of the few i found it in stock, and with forum discounts comes out at a little under 700 delivered!

Hello fellow PPP wagon owner. If i were starting again, i would likely go with the Pedders! You can get them cheaper than that from Pedders themselves, and other subaru specific retailers that also offer forum discounts, so, shop around! However, that's the price of the set, not including installation and setup i presume? If that's for everything then chew their arms off! You should be thinking about possibly replacing the droplinks, as they are likely as worn as the rest! I'm currently in the boat of considering ARB upgrades, and will likely be going with CDF racing solid droplinks at the same time as apparently the OEM subaru items are plastic and can flex a fair bit when under duress!

I am looking to replace the ARB's on the wagon, and i have the opportunity to buy a 22mm front, and 24mm rear adjustable used from a wagon being broken. Both are whiteline, which i hear are the better for handling but bad for corrosion, however they've been powder coated so that's not too much of an issue. I wondered whether this would be OTT for a road car i have no plans to track? Was thinking about whether just doing the rear would be a better plan or not... I will be replacing droplinks to solid CDF racing items too. Current setup is mostly standard except for KYB ExcelG struts and GB270 wagon springs (essentially PCA dynamics) Cheers

Check service history, and that the fanbelt has been changed on time. Check the oil to make sure it's not milky, have the guy take it into boost a good few times to ensure it doesn't overheat on boost (apparently a sign of headgasket failure), all the usual car stuff really!

Late to the party but did you try godspeed? They do part exchange refurbs though yours may have been too far gone to part ex by the sounds of it!

Sounds like you had a bit of a lucky escape this time around, but as others have said you should really be matching the tyres on all four corners, or at least ensuring that they are the same rolling circumference and wear levels!

Even with owning a WR blue scoob i'd much prefer to have one in white, even though it's a limited run i'd hazard a guess that yours will be the more rare sight on the road! Still, lovely car, congrats! If i were you the first thing i'd be doing is paying someone to correct the paint and then give it a coating so it remains in great condition!

Make sure you are parked on a completely level surface before checking, else you may be getting a false reading. If it's that on a completely level surface then you've probably overfilled it. The common advice is to leave it on a level surface overnight and then check it in the morning, as the other poster said the cut out is the maximum it should be at temp once the oil has warmed up a bit and expanded. They really could have made it much easier, checking the gearbox oil is even more of a pain in the butt.

I had this before, it's like it actually dive bombed the car and was all up the side and over the roof. Cheeky buggers, they obviously have it out for the Subarus!

I did consider these before a set of KYB came up cheap new in box, i think if i keep the car past the life of these struts i'll likely think about moving over to them!

Seems to be the consensus. I spent the earlier part of my driving career in minis, and have had modified cars with coils previously, so i think maybe sticking with springs is best for me and my back for now =D

Cheer bud, I wouldn't want to replace the whole lot though, as the struts were new last year and the springs are still good, only need to replace the top mounts! Just didn't know if coils would be a good option, but it seems the majority of people favour the spring/strut route which is understandable!

7.5 should go on fine, depending on the offset, 48 is probably the minimum without starting to get into the realms of rubbing, although all of it will depend on how low you've dumped it!

No worries. I was considering coils, but i don't really want to sacrifice the ride quality that much and lowered springs are already quite stiff! But, i would like to even out the ride height. If i was going coils i'd probably go with Meister over BC as they seem to have better reviews overall, but still it's basically horses for courses as they're the same price. Might be able to pick up a used set if you keep your eye on the facebook groups as they quite often come up on cars being broken for parts!

Cool, thanks bud! I'll likely stick with the gb270 springs for now, unless a set of PCA come up before i fit the new top mounts. Do you have any recommendations for those? I was thinking KYB, since they'd match the struts though ICP and Lemforder get mentioned fairly regularly. Don't think i can stretch to any group N oem ones!

Hi All, When moving from a standstill and just in general sometimes my seat knocks, has anyone else experienced anything similar? I'm not overly heavy, about 13 stone, and this has steadily got worse over the nearly two years i've owned her. I will definitely get around to having a look when i'm off for xmas, pending weather, but just wondered if it has happened to anyone else! I know its not the rear suspension as i have that noise as well and it's separate! If i can't find anything obvious that's in need of tightening i guess it's an excuse to find an STI interior!

Thanks Mr B. Would the BC/Meister be considered "average taiwan coilovers"? I do think it's generally better to stick with springs/struts to try and maintain the best of both worlds, but as you say it's best not to limit the travel too much by going too low! From what i understand, the current springs are essentially the same as the original prodrive, or PCA remakes so do lower it a bit more than standard.

Although it's not that close, there is Triton motorsport in Bournemouth. When i was there i used them for a few things and they're a good group of guys. Duncan of Racedynamix has space there, or at least did, and he's fairy well reputed in the Subaru community as a mapper. Though i will say he's normally heavily in demand and can be difficult to get a hold of, the guys at Triton should be able to offer some advice, and/or give you his contact details though.

Car: 05 WRX Wagon Wheels: Standard Suspension: KYB Excel-G, GB270 springs. So, i replaced all the struts last year and fitted some springs from a GB270 i managed to find cheap, but i went cheap and didn't bother replacing the top mounts (top hats?) at the same time, now i'm getting low speed knock, which from what i understand is likely to be caused by this. I guess it's telling that they've covered (probably) 100k as i don't have documentation stating they've been replaced. Anywho, I'm thinking either buy the matching KYB top mounts and fit it all, or go with a new set of coilovers from Meister/BC. The first is the cheaper option, but, i don't have ride height adjustability and i wouldn't mind shaving off another cm or 2 and having it all levelled. Currently it sits ever so slightly higher in the rear. That said, i wouldn't really want it too much stiffer than it is now. What do you guys think? I'll likely be doing droplinks and maybe ARBs at the same time(ish)

I replaced all struts on mine last year, managed to find a set of KYB Excel G shocks someone had bought before selling the car so got them cheaper, but they are good! That being said, change the top mounts on them at the same time, i didn't and now they are beginning to make noise so i have to take it all off and rebuild them again! I'm considering the KYB tops too, since the struts are good. Food for thought...

Had the car re-aligned today after fitting new KYB struts and pro-drive springs on Thursday, I thought while the struts were out cleaning the wheel wells would be a great idea, did the rears then cba to do the fronts too, will get around to doing it sooner or later! Took the standard struts apart to reuse the top mounts and ended up taking about 6 hours all-in-all after building up and refitting.. Car handles much better now, and the ride is noticeably stiffer which is nice. Would have liked a bit more drop on them though to be honest, i'd go coils with a cm or two gap if it wouldn't ruin the handling =[[ at least that's what i've heard. Weirdly the fronts seem to fully extend when the car is jacked up, meant that i had to jack the front axle up a little to get the wheel back on even though it was up on axle stands after i'd finished the job. Hopefully it will settle down a little once they've been on the car for a while!

I'd love to have these, but they're 5x114 =[ Also, are you sure they are the drift derivative? The drift models tend to have a more aggressive curvature to the spokes (probably a better way to describe but can't think of it), whereas these just look like regular torques!

Hey Gambit, Was trawling through a different forum and found some lights which could be what you're looking for? Albeit a bit more expensive than what the eBay ones went for, could offer them though. http://www.scoobynet.com/car-parts-for-sale-437/1038617-prodrive-bugeye-morette-headlights.html