martyc Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 I've bought the twin prosport pillar gauge set from scoobyworld (boost and oil pressure) and I'm not sure if I'm missing something? The boost gauge seems straight forward, as does the wiring (all feeds can be taken from the clock from what I can gather?) but with the oil pressure gauge there is no adaptor just a sender unit. Has anyone bought this set up and can advise how to plumb in the OP gauge? Or am I missing something? Thanks in advance :-) Martin Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
Buggyeye Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 My oil pressure gauge is plugged into cyl no. 3 just removed the banker plate and I used the 12v cig lighter as power Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
martyc Posted July 31, 2015 Author Posted July 31, 2015 Did you have to use an adapter or did it go straight in? What sort of gauge have u got? Thanks for the prompt reply:-) Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
stants Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 You'll need an adaptor as the hole under no 3 is blanked off, i'm in the process of moving my pressure from n03 to the alternator, and sticking temp in 3. DO NOT BUY THE GALLEY PLUG FROM SUBARU it's threaded bsp where as your sender will be ntp. So you can either get a complete relocation kit from the usual outlets or just the galley plug adaptor with an ntp thread http://www.scoobyparts.com/interior/gauges-fitting-pods/oil-pressure-oil-temperature-gauge-fitting-kit So the braided line and silver thing go under alt in original sender hole and you screw the sender in at the back, or you can but just the nut and stick that directly in the block at no3 and put sender in 1
Buggyeye Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 No.3 sender is just to the right of the turbo I think....not easy to get to but I used a long extension bar with a torx Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
martyc Posted July 31, 2015 Author Posted July 31, 2015 Just tried the no 3 plug, it is tight as fook and can't get it out! Didn't wanna strip or break anything so will have to try the other method. Ran all the wires into the bay and done the boost sender etc so will hopefully have the gauges in today even if the OP isn't hooked up yet Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
stants Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 Yep I used a socket with hex head, it's threadlocked in too so it takes a bit of force,
Scoobyghost Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 Just done this myself. Boost is simple. I ran the oil pressure in to a t piece braided line under the alternator and the temperature in #3. It is a bit fiddly to get too. Intercooler needs to come off for access. If you do go for #3 make sure the area is clean. Taking the blank out exposes the engines internals.
martyc Posted July 31, 2015 Author Posted July 31, 2015 Turns out I'm missing the adaptor that's meant to come with the kit! One email to scoobyworld and they're getting one out in the post, well impressed with the service! Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
Buggyeye Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 It's easy to fit once the tmic is out the way just need a extension bar and hex soxket Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
martyc Posted July 31, 2015 Author Posted July 31, 2015 Had the ic out and access was easy but only hex bit I had was on a 1/4 drive and I didn't want to snap it or damage anything so I gave up on that! Plus turns out I needed some other bits anyway Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
Gambit Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 I used the one under the alternator too easy to get too but will need the flexi hose adaptor thing for it
martyc Posted August 3, 2015 Author Posted August 3, 2015 How did you get to the one under the alt? Flexi adaptor turned up today, assembled it to go in using ptfe on all the threads, but can't see an easy way to get to the oe sender unit? Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
stants Posted August 3, 2015 Posted August 3, 2015 Beat me to it ! If no ac just mark the belt tension screw slacken off and remove bottom alt bolt loosen the top one and rotate, if ac equipped you'll have to remove it as colin says
Scoobyghost Posted August 3, 2015 Posted August 3, 2015 I would attach a picture but as usual my photo is too large [emoji19]
stants Posted August 3, 2015 Posted August 3, 2015 Haha which one mate ? I have those you sent the other day can upload for you
martyc Posted August 6, 2015 Author Posted August 6, 2015 Managed to get to the sender, hooked all up fine, although a 24mm deep socket would make life a damn sight easier! Had a really annoying leak on one of the cone fittings, managed to get it to seal after 4 attempts and lots of ptfe. But even with my hamfisted -ness i achieved it. Definitely achievable by any novice. I just hope it stays oil tight! Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 2
Scoobyghost Posted August 6, 2015 Posted August 6, 2015 Managed to get to the sender, hooked all up fine, although a 24mm deep socket would make life a damn sight easier! Had a really annoying leak on one of the cone fittings, managed to get it to seal after 4 attempts and lots of ptfe. But even with my hamfisted -ness i achieved it. Definitely achievable by any novice. I just hope it stays oil tight! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Been there myself. Good job getting it on. Nothing more satisfying than getting it done.
martyc Posted August 6, 2015 Author Posted August 6, 2015 The finished article. Extended the oe sender wire as it was too short and tried to put the t piece out of the way but visible to keep an eye on it. Not the tidiest but was struggling to find place for it! Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
martyc Posted August 6, 2015 Author Posted August 6, 2015 I think so, about 80psi when cruising around at just over 2k, although the warm idle seems low at around 30? Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk
Scoobyghost Posted August 6, 2015 Posted August 6, 2015 My warm idle is between 2.0-2.3bar. 2.0 bar is 30psi. Sounds about right from all the gauges I've heard of. 80 psi is 5.5bar. 1
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